5 3D Printing Tips the ELITES don't want you to know... #3DP101

Ninja air fryer on dehydrator mode way better than food dehydrator. Precise temperature control, higher temps (90C) and good timer.

Once i cleaned the bed so well that i couldnt even get the print of 😂

How do you create the sacrificial bridge in a print?

Can I use the g10 in my Flashforge Adventurer 3?

The title is stupid

i got a large 3d print adhesive spray can from 3djake with 400ml for only $10, i had it since 2 years and it still has more then half of the bottle

Oh god never use alcohol and paper towel. Alcohol smears oil around, and paper towels inherently have oil in them to keep the loose fibers from become airborne. So the paper towel leaves oils and loose fibers. A glorious mess. Using these two items will literally long term guaranteed zilch for bed adhesion. Dish soap, warm water, and a vegetable brush. Anything else will just piss you off and waste your time.

Elites don't want you to know about? Come on. Great tricks, but that's populist nonsesense.

What software is that? Are you able to make supports where you want? Especially for the screw hole example. Or are you just adding features in your cad files then putting it into some slicer I don't know about. Please help!

why dont buy G-7 sheet instead? if u are aware of the temperature u definitely want to check it out, it has a bit lower hardness so it maybe can be scratched more easly, but not that much tho.

I've been preaching your gluestick/isopropyl alcohol method far and wide. Every time I see a messy glued up bed I link to your original video.

1000x 👍🏻 cause 1 is not enough 👍🏻👍🏻
thank you ... great video and cool tips 👍🏻

Good video. Shame about the click bait title

biggest tip: use your print bed and a box to dehydrate your filament! you have a very controlled temperature and by using the filament box, you can lay the filament on your bed and just leave it for a few hours.

the alcohol what % should it be 70% or 91% or 99%

As an elite I didn't want You to know that, damn it :(

How could joel or Barnacules not tell me about these?

I had to put all my 3D printers and supplies in a climate controlled storage unit for a year. The resin is probably bad for the Resin printer, but what I did for My filaments is I put them all in a Water tight storage box that has a seal, then put silica desiccant in the center of all the spools , to hopefully add another level of moisture removal I put 4 DampRid containers in the main bin , all the damprid was new, I pulled the equipment out of storage about a week ago, I haven't tried printing yet , but I think I'm safe because the DampRid containers have no liquid in the bottom of their tubs. I don't know how low they can bring down the humidity? I'll know later this week if it worked or I need to dehydrate them before use. I have 20+ rolls and 30+ bottles of resin (all expired now 😢) I think long term storage is the biggest issue with this hobby if you can't use your equipment for an extended period of time for any reason. Mine? My wife wanted to roam the USA in a RV for a year, I wanted to take the printers with me but vibration (driving) , space and fire risk (in an already flammable home on Wheels) wasn't worth it. My insurance probably wouldn't like the reason if a bed or hotend went up in flames when out getting supplies 😮. I really wanted to do it , I had over $15k in solar installed that could run anything including a 15K AC unit, I might have been the first with a Mobile 3D printer?

I can't see the difference between stl and step models. I made a cylinder in solidworks and exports it as stl and step. And when i add both files to superslicer they looks identical. Both has identical polygonal surface.

A very light coat of aquanet hair spray make is perfect for bead adhesion and only takes a few seconds to apply

Something I've done with varying success for drying filament is, and this will only work if you have a heated bed or a similar sized flat surface, is to put your sealed filament with desiccant on it and cover it with a box to enclose. I put it up to 50 degrees for regular PLA, 55 for Performance High Temp PLA, anymore and I'm concerned it might melt the filament together. Leave it for 3 hours before flipping, wait another three and boom, seems to work. Plus side, cheap most of the items you already have (Filament box, filament, 3D Printer lol) cons: can't use printer during this and your mileage may vary.

FreeCAD's default STL export is kind of low-poly. So, exporting as STEP files and using PrusaSlicer was a game changer for me. (The workarounds for STL inside FreeCAD are too cumbersome).

For printing ABS on G10 or FR4, make ABS juice to use as an adhesive

Wait, aren't you one of the elites? Which means you do want us to know these tips... But why, aren't we going to be buying even fewer overpriced 3d printing accessories? Omg, how did I not see this before? You're the glue stick baron! The mysterious entity who controls every glue stick refinery in the world. So it's your face, on the elmer's glue logo! I see the resemblance now. I don't have much longer, but If something happens to me you all know exactly who ddddd %$&$^%^*&^&^%i(&*&%@#$%

You better watch your back now. The elites will not be taking this lying down.

You can hide files in word documents as well by renaming the file to .zip and putting things into it, and then switching back to .docx. It will give you a popup that there is unreadable content when you reopen the file, but it still works as normal.

Problem with G10 - it's not really THAT cheap. Something that fits the bed of my Sidewinder X2 will cost about USD 12-15 (RM50-60) and I have to order it custom-cut. I suppose in the US you could get it from McMaster-Carr, but that's not an option here. I tried unreinforced phenolic, that warps when it heats up. What I found that REALLY works well and IS cheap is 300x300mm mirror tiles from IKEA - not only do you get the exact amount of adhesion necessary for PLA/PLA+, you can use it with glue stick when printing PETG, you end up with a mirror smooth surface on the bottom of the print. You can actually use it unheated for PLA, though it works better at 50-70C (and the prints release automatically when it cools). AND it costs USD 6 for FOUR of them (I've managed to break a couple from forgetting to clip them to the bed). Nice thing about the X2 is that using any sort of clip-on bed is a breeze - unlike my old Wanhao i3 Plus, no need to mess with frame-mounted Z stop sensors - the bed leveling sensor adjusts for the added thickness automatically. Cleaning it is easy, spritz some IPA and wipe with a paper napkin before every print.
In the past, when I used glue stick a lot more than I do now, I'd spray IPA on the bed where there was a layer of glue stick on it, and then I'd smooth it out with a spatula or a napkin.

I have never used glue stick for bed adhesion. The trick is to use a brim on everything. And have a textured bed

We use Pritt glue stick, which is water soluble. Clean with naughty stuff, then spread the glue with a water-moistened cloth.

Hi Angus,
Thanks for another great video, big fan. Can you provide further details on the bearing setup in the food dehydrator? I already have a dehydrator for this purpose and would like to replicate the bearing and filament outfeed. Do you have a source for a particular bearing as well as any 3d printed parts?

Oh my god! I usually like maker’s muse videos, but in this case the clickbait title is repulsive. I will not see this video, and directly give it a -1.

Does anybody make a filament storage device that keeps the filament from attracting moisture? Or maybe put some of those de moisturizer silica bags in your filament storage container? IDK. Thanks.

I thought I was the only one with glue stick and dissolve with ipa on pei! Lol 😂 guess it’s not my trick!

Hey I'm an elite. Delete this pls

these mashroom dryiers are sumer noisy, why don't you try keeping the fillament in something hygroscopic, even a huge bag of rice would do but you can buy chemical pellets for that puropuse

I don’t know why people don’t know about this but I’m not joking put duck tape on the bed it gives infinite adhesion the layers will split before it pops off try it but it just is very difficult to get off after too but it’s worth it pvc tape also works you might need To rise your bed for better adhesion depending on how your bed is leveled you want a little bit of bleeding for best results

I prefer the method of busting a nut through a sacrificial layer. 🤣

Ilove the last tip. Awesome tip about vulnerability on that kind of files. Thx bro, nice vídeos

Why the ELITES don't want you to know...?? What kind of statement is this. If you found a tick. That is fine. Share it is you will. But why put a silly statement as a title??? To attract viewers ?? You just lost me.

I'll store all of my gun designs inside a .3mf file

Thank you

For drying filament, the easiest way to do it is to just dry it using the paper box the filament comes with and the printer’s heat bed. It works for petg sine we are only drying it for like once a month. Nylons will be a pain since u can’t dry and print in the Sam etime

I have an ender 3 s1, and I'm not getting stringing without Z-hop, but all my prints fail, but when I turn on Z-hop my prints don't fail but the have lots of stringing, and ive tried changing retraction distance and nozzle temp, and turning on and off combing.

I discovered a nasty lil secret hot end manufacturers doing. The aluminum may not be the correct grade for contraction and expansion when hested and cooled. If adjust your z axis offeset with a heated bed like at 60°c and a cold hot end the distance between the bed and nozzle will change drastically if not the right aluminum alloy. Most bed leveling and z offset videos don't mention this important fact. Don't buy knock off microswiss hotends that don't specify details on the heater block

Why would the elites not want me to know this?

About the Arc thing:
I have to test on other printers, but at least on my Tronxy XY 3 SE, I have to be careful with arcs, because every arc represents one command.
With non-concurrent processing, this means I may have a full circle with only one command, but it may not stick, or the nozzle could collide with the print bed, because the Z-Axis does not get updated with ABL data during that arc.

Also, a friend of mine found out, that you have to be careful to not overdo the drying process.
In his case, he used XPETG from Extrudr, which is fantastic otherwise, but can be dried to as low as 15% humidity - at which point its viscosity will be bad and it will barely stick to the print bed.
35% works perfectly.

I feel like a zip-up print enclosure should be on this list

Angus, would you be able to do a quick video on the cad to do the 1st trick for inset nut bridges? Is there a way to not make every nut recess 4 or 5 extrude operations?

I've been using G10 for about 9 months and I'll never go back to anything else.