Multi-pitch climbing: how to swap leads and climb through

Multi pitch newbie here. I've read elsewhere that the anchor should have a piece in the other direction (protecting the belayer from getting pulled into the wall if the climber falls), this makes sense to me. But no mention of it here. I guess no one will reply to this now but just gonna put this out there.

Nothing wrong there, excellent good practice.

Thanks guys. Useful video in that it gave me something to think about regarding the lock position of the brake hand if there is no first runner after the belay. Interesting too to see how you tie the belay device off. I thought you had to tie some half hitches around the live rope so it is releasable under load - but the knot works of course (was it just an overhand?) i have taken to tying an alpine in this scenario and would be interested in your thoughts. currently in the process of re-assessing how I do things so all this was great fodder for thought. Cheers.

what in the faffiest faff did I just watch

Why are they using two different ropes wouldn’t it just work with one rope as well?

Be careful!!! At around 4 minutes 40 seconds in the video, you can clearly see that the belayer doesn't even have the carabiner in the freaking belay loop. Careful with these videos.

This was super unhelpful lmao

What route is it ???

Very surprised the AMI released this video ( when he arrived at the ledge he should of made himself safe and then started to set up the belay. His first runner he places he puts the rope through and then tells the audience he is safe ? where is the clove-hitch knot ? Considering how good the ledge was i would of tied my second straight into the belay system not into my harness. But hey what do we know hes Qualified !

The Jesus Nut.

Shouldn't you place the first runner as you arrive as a first leader ? So that the belaying rope for the follower is secured somewhere else than on your harness ?


Belaying the guy from above without a runner feels to me like you are overstressing the anchor and the belay device, moreover that way you will always belay the same way and won't take risks swapping your belaying techniques between climbs, which seems like overcomplications.

Do you know SERENE?

Where are your personal anchors?

Inwards is personal preference only. Best to clip pro outwards.

The lead climber clips the rope into the right anchor for his first piece of protection.

the lead should have set the jesus piece prior to even creating this belay station and then lowered down and created the belay station after that. Before that first piece is in, a factor 2 fall onto the belayer's harness would likely prove fatal

First of all, the belayer is constantly letting go of his braking hand… Second, that is definitely not how to use a reverso to secure a following climber. And third, a runner is put when the lead climber is still secured to the anchor point. In this video the lead climber has a chance to fall before he sets up the runner, and that would have been a factor 2 fall with all the force directly on the belay device of the belayer… This video is quite dangerous…

That's not how you use atc guide to belay a second !

That's a dangerous way to belay the second...

Why are you taking your brake hand off the ropes?

Gentlemen -- If making an educational video, and you are going to spend time talking about the importance of the 1st piece of gear, it isn't appropriate to fail to mention the necessity of that piece being multi-directional. I'm sure you are aware that the first piece, when set for a downward pull, will cause a zipper effect once other pieces are set. I recognize you are climbing primarily on nuts, but for education --- your viewers are taking away the wrong lesson.

good info on locking off the rope in a factor 2 fall