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Interesting focus on fins. There is a big focus on twin fin + trailing fin and channels which look cool. Would be great to hear more about the return to channels since the 80's
ОтветитьPURE GOLD! Thank you.
ОтветитьI wish this was a bit more inclusive to women. I feel like the baseline here is guys and their arm length & paddle strength. As an average size woman with these calculations I come up with a good midlength for me being a 6‘5. That doesn’t seem to be that mid-lengthy. I wish there was more talk about this, and not just use dudes as the baseline.
ОтветитьWhat lengths classify a “mid length” board?
ОтветитьThanks for this podcast G O L D
Ответитьso good especially the FIN talk and sizing guide. Thanks
ОтветитьDoesn’t he surf like a 6’10? Is that really a mid length?
ОтветитьBeing a small frame female, ive probably always have ridden boards too big for me. I enjoy midlength but still need a light one....when i bodyboard, i tend yo move like how Devan describes shortboarding...i like to rip the wave....makes me want to ride a smaller board....im 64 yrs...heehee
Ответить💙
Ответить5'10 and 205lbs, and usually ride anything from a 9' log to a 12' glider. Had a friend shape me a 7'10 mini longboard shape, basically a mid length with almost no rocker and fairly thick with heavy glass. I find it really difficult to paddle this board much less catch a wave. There is no perceptable sweet spot to paddle this board straight and level in the water without either the tail sinking or the nose sinking. Quite literally half an inch too far forward and the nose sinks like a rock, half an inch too far back and the tail drags and the wave washes underneath. The few waves i have caught i almost had to intentionally pearl the nose while i was paddling into the face to get it to engage and hopefully come up on plane so i can stand up. In hindsight i would have went with an 8'4 or maybe even an 8'6, this was my foray into going smaller but I can attest that there is no such thing as a one size fits all when it comes to mid lengths, you really need to have someone who shapes the board for your body weight and your body geometry.
ОтветитьWow wow wow... Let's not make a midlength into some novelty its not. It's beyond pretentious. The most extreme performance features on a surfboard are on a shortboard, and you surf it with every bit of intention and body movement. You cannot go all out, flying out of the pocket into the lip or do tight turns in the pocket like a shortboard. There's stability and control in the pocket and off the lip that only comes with a smaller high-performance shortboard. A midlenth is a much more forgiving board, and all your motions are drawn out. You can become a smoother surfer by riding bigger boards--shaped for your size. You can become a better surfer all around from riding all kinds of boards. Some stepups that look like midlengths with wider outlines (ghost..) are really good for bigger waves. Everyone gets stuck thinking they need to ride a shortboard, but a bigger board (aka high-performance midlength) goes good on big points, lots of water movement, and long walls. All that said, if you're NOT riding a board sized right for you, you cannot access the features of the board. Rails may be too fat to use properly, width might be so much you're planing instead of using rails etc... An example is riding a shortboard 2 or more liters above what your weight calls for. At that point, a midlenth will work better for a higher volume to weight board. Sadly, some shapers make their stock dimensions "friendly" by making them closer to the width and volume you need for a midlength. If you need paddle friendly don't ride a shortboard, get a fish or midlength. Everything's a compromise. Ride them all.
ОтветитьAmazing podcast! A lot of helpful information. If Devon comes back it would be definitely interesting to know more about backside riding and duck diving thing, or how to get past the break on big days. Thank you so much!
ОтветитьDon't find the "fin jack"...
Ответитьshouts out kings glassing
ОтветитьAmazing podcast! Really enjoyed the chilled vibe while getting really good tips at the same time! Appreciate it.
ОтветитьI have a 7.11 twin pin with four channels that I believe Simon Jones had a hand in when my shaper was making it. SO fast!! For such a 'long' board it has a very short nose that let's you take a critical drop, but with the rest of the board being mostly tail, it just FLIES off the top! (Probaly helped by the subtle inside foil on the fins) Get the line right and you're able to keep the speed up right out onto the flats to get around a section no probs. And when the face stays open you can crank it off the top as well. Magic board! My other magic board is an 8.0 fish made by the same guy. I'm 6.3 and 210lbs (95kg) average joe. Maybe why I love them...
ОтветитьI’m love 8ft Ricky Carrol …my favorite board
ОтветитьThis was like listening to my fighter pilot friend talk about flying. As Devon was talking I completely understood what he was talking about when sizing up from a shortboard. Don't attack at 12 o clock, tickle the lip and aim for 9-10 o clock and let the board get its speed. Great description.
ОтветитьI love my mid-lengths, but I am also stepping down to a short board.
ОтветитьThis content is pure gold.
ОтветитьAwesome video! Helped me a lot about things I was struggling with. Thanks!
ОтветитьStarted surfing in Cocoa Beach in 1964 got to experience the short board revolution and the multiple fins still surfing my mid lengths eggs and hybrid. Living in Hawaii you always want that extra advantage . I agree most guys ride the wrong board .Aloha
Ответить🤙🏻
ОтветитьPriceless! Thank you
ОтветитьAwesome descriptions and great interviewer. Thank you for being so precise, I could visualize everything he said
ОтветитьDevon is just a cool dude. I’m really enjoying my CI Mid and 9’ 3” parallax and not overthinking manoeuvres in my mid 50s, and I couldn’t agree more with points made in this convo. 👏👏👏
ОтветитьFantastic detail thank you great interview
ОтветитьSpeaking of just having 3 boards, a fish, mid twin, and a glider is pretty solid.
ОтветитьGreat surfer, awful politics.
ОтветитьHow refreshing is it to hear a Educated pro surfer speaking sense, instead of the habitual jargon.
ОтветитьGreat video! I've been thinking more and more about getting my first midlength, this video was just so useful for me. Thanks!
ОтветитьOutstanding to hear what we all knew in the 70’s ,but articulated so well . Great patience and questions too . Thanks
ОтветитьMaster class!!! Yeahh Devon!!
ОтветитьThis is a wonderful conversation. The part about style and beauty around minute 43 is so interesting. To me style is about relaxation and connection with the wave.
ОтветитьIn the last 10 years I’ve been on a bit of a length journey. Dropped all the way down to a mini Simmons 5’4, back up to 6’4, 6’8 and 8 footers. In the last 18 months I think my sweet spot is now 7’6. Big enough but short enough. I now have a 7’6 egg style middie, a 7’6 summer foamie and a step up 7’6 Superfish . These all offset my declining fitness and mobility etc at 67 yrs. Go middies !
ОтветитьGreat hearing Devon go deep on the craft and differentiating between different mid variants. Would be rad to eventually get a mid that performs equally well as 1+2, twin and single fin though that would eventually put Britt Merrick and Ryan Lovelace out of business and we obviously don’t want that😂
ОтветитьOn the subject of style:
Shortboard + style = Stephanie Gilmore.
This was so interesting. So much information and advice and his approach to everything is so my type. What a cool and "real" dude. Cheers for this one
ОтветитьYep - what is said here is true. Never thought about it before, when you grow up surfing - Good to see that someone can it break down - good surf coaching - new age intro to surfing - keep it up - as far as fins are concerned - get to two Kelly Slater symmetrical back fins ( white with blue dots) as your outside fins and the smallest back fin you can get in a thruster configuration - hey presto - works on any sized board !🤟
ОтветитьWhat's the definition of a mid length?
ОтветитьLove this ... I took inspo from that same Vimeo clip about 8 years ago when I got my 7'2 egg. I just showed my shaper the clip and said this is what i want to do. He said well I can't make you surf like DH but I can make you a board that can work like that. The best board I've ever had. It's about time to get another one and now I'll probably look to go 6'8 or 6'10, something with more speed, rocker, capable of tighter turns yet still maintaining the drive. I'd love to try a twin fin but am afraid it'll just take off too fast for my liking. The stability and versatility of a 2+1 has been awesome. There are some real nuggets of information in this episode for someone like me who had some questions about the intricacies and nuances of mid lengths before making another investment in one.
ОтветитьI’m 60 years old grew up on single fins went through the thrusters for a while. But I went back to single fins 25 years ago was laughed at by some props from others. But those who used to heckled me now joined the fun. It’s all preference when it comes down to it.
ОтветитьGreat video and conversation, thank you!
ОтветитьI had a good buddy have Doug Haut shape an early mid length. It was 8’0”. This was 1982. For sure they have been around. Now, I am looking to get one. At 67, I am working hard to get those skills back after being out of the surf for years. Cheers
ОтветитьPLEASE longboarding and nose riding! Such a wonderful source of info!
ОтветитьDid he end up explaiing longboard to midlength? Thiink I missed that
Ответитьknowledge for dayyyzz, thanks
Ответитьthat's one articulate guest
ОтветитьHey got a question I am only 5’6 and I’m 180 pounds so would my midlength be a 6’1 a lot of guys are always huge and ride a 7’0 amd I truly even in the midlength world on a 6’1 ha please let me know thanks
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