B-Pump Ogikubo HARDEST Climbing Gym EVER

Awesome video man

Cool vid!. One question, why are ther holds inside tapped triangles?. First slab problem it look like they belong to the problem

That yellow v2-3 in the beginning is a v6 in my gym

Dude I relate so much with this video
I live in the countryside of Brazil, and the gyms here are disconnected from the rest of the world. Besides that we still use the international V system for boulders, and its completely broken. The V3 here are way harder than the ones I usually see online. I think that happens because climbing its not a popular sport here, so must of us also climb in the rock. Anyway, I am so happy to know there are other places where the "system" doesnt apply very well too

That looks sooo hard. I've started bouldering only 3 months ago. I work on my technique a lot but Im still so scared of some moves that arent that hard maybe just more tricky 🫠

Your knowledge of the rocks you come across baffles me. What I wouldn’t give to go on a single expedition with you. Teaching myself with books and videos has only gotten me so far. Being with someone with field experience who can point out the rocks in real time would suit my learning style so much better.
How did you learn so much?

I would love to make a trip out to that area in the future but I wouldn’t have much success with my lack of actual agate hunting experience.

very good 🙂

I normally climb V4/V5 in the States and I could barely climb a V1 when I visited this gym last month LOL. Climbing in Japan is not for the faint of heart!

Im trying to get my second ever v5 on a paddle move and you're "v3" wall looked harder than the v5 I've been trying

I've climbed extensively at Japanese gyms including B-Pump and I'm a routesetter in the US. One thing to note is that the scale at the beginning is the "official" Japanese-to-V-grade conversion chart, which applies best to outdoor bouldering. There are stiff and soft gyms in the country, with B-Pump being one of the hardest. Here's a rough chart just based on my own opinion if you want to know what grade you might climb at B-Pump:

8-kyu - VB
7-kyu - V0
6-kyu - V1
5-kyu - V2-V3+
4-kyu - V4+
3-kyu - V5-V6
2-kyu - V6+
1-kyu - V7+
1-dan - V8-9
2-dan - V10+
3-dan - V11 and up

Fantastic video for one of the best gyms I have visited. So happy to see your take on the grades there. I didn't know about Shodan being the gate to mastery. New lifetime goal set!

Australia has the worst grading gyms..most just grade from 1 to 10, so if the 10 is v14 what is the 3...(could be anything), always horribly annoying as you can never have a progression, as one week you can do 8....then the 9 at the gym is a project v15 for the route setters, so all the 8 become 6 and you feel like you have dropped 2 grades( good thing i have a moon board) can go home flash a few v5 and relize im still about the same strength as i was ftom 20 years ago last lol

Kaizen

I like your Videos so much! Your style of climbing is so beatyfull to watch! Please make more 🙏

WTF hahaha waow the boulders look insanely hard for the grade, a dynamic toe hook catch on a v2-v3 I would never see that in any gyms in my city up until V4-V5

Bro idk what v grades they’re using but it’s definitely not what the gyms I’ve been to are😭😭😭. My v4 is their v1/v2😭😭😭

The grading looks like identical to bouldering in rock

WTF THOSE V0-V2 CLIMBS ARE INSANE. those are like v3-v6 in my gym

looks accurate to outdoor bouldering.

Awesome video! Can't wait to visit this gym

So this is the gym people talk about when they say "V0/1 in my gym" . I'm flashing 6c consistently, but can't see myself flashing most 5's there. Holy that gym is insane. Will definitly remember it if I go to Japan next time.

LLOOKING ABSOLUTELY HUMONGOUS ALSO PRETTY VIRAL VIDS LETS GOO RAAHHHH💪💪💪💪💪

Everything sandbag in Japan. I used to climb v10 when I was in the US. I moved to Japan and I only climb v3/4 now

Japan just has stricter grading, and 段級位制 doesn't have any standardized conversion to V grading (especially as there's no reliable standard within V grading itself). The actual routes aren't inherently more difficult as Japan doesn't have exclusive holds or climbing techniques that the rest of the world doesn't have; you're just on the wrong grade if something is substantially more difficult than expected. Though, of course, if you normally climb at, say, a gym geared for 180 cm climbers, Japan's routes will not be as suitable to your body shape or what you are used to. That's nothing specific to 荻パン though. If anything, it's just a lesson in how inconsistent grading is across all of climbing especially when going international; nothing about the gym itself is more difficult than any other gym in the world.

Your grade conversions are a little off my friend. Shodan (初段)=V7/8 Nidan (二段) =V8/9 and Sandan (三段)= V10/11. The gyms are hard all over Japan.

whats the point in sandbagging grades like this... just keep them consistent and start higher if you want a hard gym. grades exist to provide universal bench mark

How is it compared to usa climbing gyms ? Like what’s ur average in the USA ? Awesome video we just went 2 weeks ago lol super hard

去成都玩玩，黑爆和339也非常的硬，导致这个视频居然没有对我产生过大地冲击

Nice to see a video where the lower grades are challenging! Definitely checking out the rest of the vids! Japanese gyms look amazing!(ly hard haha)

Love it dude, keep it up💪🏻

We just went in June 2023. Random weekday evening. To my left Fujii Kokoro is working a problem. Down at the comp wall Ogata Yushiyuki hanging with a buddy, who could have been a national champ for all I know - there are so many world class Japanese climbers and I only know of a handful. Their conversion chart is like he says, about 4 grades harder. And everyone in the gym was at least decent. Everyone was able to climb a US v6 or better. It was like the field of dreams. Awesome and super challenging.

great videos. Going to Japan in April next year. Hoping to visit all these gyms and do some outdoor climbing

Don’t forget Japan gymnastics level which is the best in the universe ! 😄

When I got a 1 dan climb in Japan I celebrated.

"Shodan" is like how sushi restaurant apprentices have to wash rice for 5 years before being able to do anything else lol

When the gym is 2-3 grades harder than outdoors that is wild. My gym is very hard on grading and turns V4 climbers at the other gyms in the city into V1 climbers, but it's still nowhere near the level of B-Pump. I hope to one day visit here as my hardest grade as of right now is V7 and I want to test myself more.

I'm relatively new to climbing but I had the chance to climb in another gym in Tokyo. It was so much harder than what I was used to. I'm currently at a V3/V4 level but I only managed to climb some V0+/V1 routes in Japan. I've learned a lot though.

They set climbs 2 grades below what they consider V0, so the grade conversion isn't simply a case of Japanese climbers being stronger (though I have no doubt that's true especially in this gym), but more-so the Japanese culture of humility. Or in general climbing culture... sandbagging :)

What an awesome Video! I love your positivity :D Also, the choice of music was excellent! Sadly, there ist no list of the used songs, or is there? I would love to check out some of them ✌️

Heading there in 3 weeks!

It's fun how American gyms put the grades on the boulders so high, there a v7 it's like a v3 in other countries.

the routsetters have to be joking, right? The first yellow V1 you did would be at least a V4 at my gym, or maybe even a V5

I climb up to 7A/7B at the moonboard as well as in my home gym. In fontainebleau although, I didn't manage to do sth harder than 6A the one time I was there. So maybe I suck at outdoors or all the gyms/ moonboard is graded to low, except this gym

God i hope climbing continues growing in the west like it has over the last 5 years. The Japanese do everything so well

This is where the Internet downgrader climbs.

im not even gay but this guy is so good looking, im falling in love

Bro I’m going here in a month - scared LOL