AI vs Human Route Setting - Can You Tell The Difference?

very good enjoyable video with lovely people 👌🥳

I work in machine learning, specifically RL, it’s awesome to see brainstorming/collaboration between human and AI work out so well. Awesome video ❤

This was lovely, i would want to see a Nikken vs ai setting session as well

When Imi said she had no inspiration yet, THAT'S exactly where you can use AI as a professional to just... inspire. Don't follow it to the letter, but use your experience combined with its idea's and make something nice.

Also try and use model 4 not 3.5, it's a lot better, and there are free to use sites online that even focus the application on certain topics :)
Either way, always love me a setting vid.

While this video idea is very fun, I don't think this was a fair comparison. I think this mostly just shows amateur route setter vs professional route setter (different families of holds, no sense of aseshtetics, etc) rather than the AI making "bad" boulders.
I think Imi would've set a different static route with the AI's instructions and it would've been much more human-like (aka good).

I wonder what 2 good routesetters, one human one ai, would make of it

You could try that with a Kilterboard, it has pre set holds

Anyways the idea is kinda cool

Leave the human decisions to the humans that actually climb... maybe... 🤔

great video!

I'm an NLP dev. Things I would want to try:
- Create a formal grammar for text representation of routes. Some sort of grid probably makes the most sense. Each node being a drill-hole. Perhaps different letters for slope gradients. Different numbers for different types of holds.
- You can use many-shot prompting to teach it or you can use fine tuning. GPT3.5Turbo can now be fine tuned.
- Why not start with a canvas board? The app probably already has a standardised grid representation that you can feed into it. And if you can export those, then you have all the data you might want for fine-tuning.
- Some tree-of-thought reasoning prompts or something similar.

I had to try and see if chat gpt could set problems on the (mini)moonboard. It can't :/

I think it would be a cool idea to have Imi use chat GPT as a tool for route-setting. Not blindly following it but more as a guideline, almost like a collaboration between her and the AI. Maybe it could turn out to be a useful tool for her

The AI boulders were more like "enterpreted AI", as the program did not draw a boulder or gave very specifik instructions...
Very interesting idea for a video, though. 👍👍🌞

Let’s switch the roles for Sam and Emmy now! Let Sam do whatever he feels and force Emmy to try and follow very specific AI instructions

I really took routesetters for granted, it’s absolutely beautiful to see louis coast through some well thought out moves like poetry

In my opinion, a global database of successful human-set boulders would be useful, showing wall angles, distances, hold manufacturers, etc. Online Observation channel here in Japan uses great 3-D rendering, but there could be a simpler template system too.

Did Imi just invent the double fist bump? 😝😝

We need a ChatRobo-T to set the boulders.

Which gym is this?

Make AI generate a picture of a V7 boulder, based on the aestethics instead! This was just a new route-setter trying to decipher an AI's message type boulder.

Not a very good idea for a video honestly. ChatGPT is text-based so this is quite uninteresting.

If you’re not balanced on an climb, including and overhang, how do you stay on? If you’re unbalanced the forces will throw you off.

I think it would have been a bit tougher to determine if none of the climbs had used any volumes. That and give the AI only one hold family to set from so that part of aesthetic looks good for both too.

More Imi content!!!

I use boulderbot on my homewall and it works pretty well once you've set it up right. It makes you point out holds (location, style, direction and difficulty) on a picture of the wall and some wall dimensions. Then there's a button that just generates a boulder for you, and some sliders for difficulty, number of moves etc. They're similar to what a very new setter would make, but they're a good and extremely quick start. With some experience and tweaks they turn into good problems that are outside of my own style. And every once in a while there's just some outlandish move that I just wouldn't have thought of.

I usually watch while exercising. Today I couldn't finish sets because I was dying laughing. xD

What if the pro route setter is using AI and the novice is using human brain? Do that to do a more realistic view on AI.

Chat gpt isn't designed for this. Kind of dumb.

I hope you revisit this idea sometime in the future because there are some things that would make it much more interesting. The thing about chat-gpt is you have to be very specific about all the details you want it to produce, and you should specify how it should approach its output and what factors it should keep in mind. That way it sort of gets closer to outputting something that would follow a coherent thought process rather than something that just sounds kind of right. That will produce a more coherent baseline prompt, which you then tweak based on any problems with it's answer. Once the problems are minimal you can ask follow up questions to further refine any small details. I played around with this a bit and got much more coherent boulders. That being said, it still isn't on par with a good human route setter, so if you do this again in the future maybe pair the route setter with the ai, and the newbie with their own creativity.

I believe an AI that uses computer vision could build more objectively graded routes. It could also explain to climbers through an app interface movement suggeations and subjective route feel based on force and power factors

I appreciate that this is a completely unreasonable thing to be bothered by, but..... the way louie tucks his t-shirt so snugly into his shorts that it pulls the seams on his shoulders forward making the t-shirt sit wrong/weird is a cannot unsee pet peeve.

Wheres Magnus?

try doing some work with ian browns ai setting i think ive seen him doing some stuff like this but more specific

ChatGPT just fools around)) it does not set any bolder problem, just gives some very abstract and vague ideas ..

it wouldve been more interesting if you tried to replicate boulders generated by AI art generators rather than ChatGPT

id love to watch Sam (or any other first time rout setter) set a route while Louis, Imi, and other veteran setters actively talk about the good and bad things and help teach the setter how to fix any mistakes they make. it could be really cool to vocalize the mindset of professional setters and see some good dos and donts

That camel toe though 😅

fun video!!! also what's the trousers Sam is wearing, great the color and design!

🐫

This was real wholesome.

More Imi content is needed.

not gonna watch videos about AI

the toe is entrancing and the camera man knows the best angles

VIDEO IDEA:
If you want to make another AI routesetting video, take a picture of an empty climbing wall and make Dall-e fill it in with a boulder problem. Then you try to set that boulder

They could have used an image AI instead, I think that would be more effective

Louie is the Guthrie Govan of climbing. Subscribed!

Don't know if you'll see this but I'd love to see this become a (perhaps yearly) series. As others have pointed out this is the worst it'll ever be, and within our lifetimes I'm positive there'll be an AI route setter that's as good, if not "better", than the best human setters. Even only a few months later there's ways to build on the challenge. GPT-4-V is quite good at understanding images, so you could give it more context about the wall, volumes and holds (especiaily for holds, you could provide images and keys for each hold so it can choose itself. You could even overlay a coordinate grid on the img of the wall so it could tell you precisely which holds and where. Within the decade a robot will be able to set problems autonomously.

for beginners or very little experience, i think that the AI system is on point. very detailed etc. And would certainly help improvement

It was not really a conversation with ChatGPT. You could have gotten much more information out of it by asking it to provide specifics.

He said that the looks are bad cus of the positioning and holds but ai didn’t choose that one they should have asked a image create ai to make it