How To Pick The Proper Welding Rod (All You Need Is These Two)

6010 and 7018 1/8 & 7018 3/32.... if you asked for 1 I'd say 7018 3/32 because you can build it up.. I do welds on thick steel that a DC gate motor is mounted too so it gets moved 1000s of times a year..it's for automation for the port automation trucker lanes ..it has to penetrate deep and has too be beefy...gets a weld only on one side of a 5 inch square ⬛️ the rest of it floats with motor mounted on it.

Yo slick sleeve half the world is stuck together with 6011/7018 and Mig wire.

Stick welding is used in a heavy duty application is that right? Mig welding is used in a smaller and lighter application?

Which rod would de best for 11 gauge tent wood stove

Most welding machines out there, that aren't full-on red or blue pro machines won't run 6010. Only the 325-amp Primeweld is rated for it. Their 225 machine is not. I haven't even struck an arc with 6010 yet-but will next time I do something besides play with the TIG setup. I've seen 6010 and 6011 penetration tests that show that the latter just doesn't punch in there like 6010. Love me some 7018.

Basically, oilfield sucker rod is a medium carbon, fairly high tensile steel on the order of 4130 or 4340 ( similar to that used for axles or shafting) but some of it is made for severe service ( hi temp, crooked hole, extreme depth, etc.) and who knows what it is. The manufacturers aren't telling.

He's absolutely wright...those two rods are the most commonly used when welding low carbon steels and extra-low carbon steels for example the golden gate bridge in san Francisco california

Sparklers are the #1 under-rated rod available.

6010 is for a DC welder. 6011 and 6013 is for ac welder and can be used with a DC welder also 7018 is for both ,

7018 & 6010

Dumb farmer here...............all I use is 6013 and 7014............

You have a lot of paint and rust 6011

6011 is a easier it starts better

Uphill is slower so runs hotter/more penetration. Downhill is faster so cooler/less penetration. The third number is either a 1 or 2, one is all position, 2 is flat/horizontal only. 7018 is all position with the limitation of uphill vertical only, because of slag inclustion with downhill. If it is structural 7018 needs to be dry so yes an oven once open the tin can. AWS D1.1 says 7018 limit out is 4hours, once pass that it can not be used for structural. 7018 is a medium penetration rod, 6010/6011 are high penetration. Given same diameter the 6010/6011 will run much hotter with less amps compared to 7018. Open root would be 6010 then 7018 fill/cover, closed root 7018 only. 6011/6013 are general purpose rods not allowed for structural. For general purpose thinner I would use 6013 cause low penetration. If dirty and too lazy to clean 6011, but if too thin I would not use cause too hot.

This is the exact info I've been trying to get someone to tell me for years. Ask anyone and get tons of different answers. My pipeline welding buddy said to use 8010 on my fence I'm like dude i don't even know where to buy those.

Next I'd like a video on making pipe saddles and adapting different size pipes.

I would add 1/8" lincoln weld 6011.
Eats thru rust dirt galvanized better.
My boss used to say a good one inch of weld, you'll rip a chunk out of your pipe before the weld will break. May the good arc be yours. 💥

<Giggle> I saw the title and thought, "Betcha it's 6010 and 7018."

I'm just a DIY'er. But, it's nice to know I kinda have a handle on things.

I understand what you're saying. I've found 7014 to be a nicer rod to start welding with as compared to 7018.

I have a Miller bobcat 250 and do mobile welding all over the area down here in Mexico. I agree mostly with what you say but I have only 1/8 inch 6011 and 7018 available. If I'm gonna be burning a lot and don't want to keep going back to the welder to adjust the heat, I just st it up for the 7018 rod and then burn 6011 faster so as to not have to constantly be going back to the welder. You can do a hotter root and then do your hot pass and go right into the 7018 and I haven't had problems. Some inspector may not like that, but I haven't had any problems.

Thank you for this video. I always get tripped up when I go in to buy welding rod. This information was perfect for the new DIY'r

I 100% agree 6010 as a root pass on dirty grind out, and 7018 3/32 for as much as it takes for fill or cap.

How does 7018 work with galvanized metals?

I'll "STICK" with 300 series SS rods. They're expensive, but cheap in the long run

Thanks!!!!!

Not bad advice for guys that will only be welding mild steel.
If I could only choose 2 rods it’d be 7018 3/32” and 309l-16 3/32”

why not use 7014 on z purlin and sheet metal . 7018 because of freezing ,excellent advice . There is a new rod 7016 that I need to learn about . I like 7024 , railroad rod , and stainless rod for repair on high carbon steel . A house hold stove makes a great rod oven and is free off Craigslist . I have a mini stove and oven for job sights .Fork lift propane tank last all day . A fridge is perfect for an air drier and is also available free off Caigslist

I been do it yourself guy forever I use the 7018 but I love 6011 for most things

I love to drag the 6013 like 7024 ,easy slag removal. it is a general purpose fast fill and good looking every day rod. It helps to prep/clean the joints i use 7018 or 11018 for any high strength welds all 70xx rod is a low hydrogen rod and needs to be dry just lay the 7018 down on a flat metal table and heat it with a torch before using. 6011 will burn through dirt, paint, rust, grease and get it done for a quick fix.

If you use a AC welder 6011 and 7014. DC 6010 7018 7016 or higher for specify metal . The first number on a rodis tensil strength 60 000 psi 70, ooo 70 psi if the second number is. 1. The position. Is flat , vertical😂over head 7024 or 7028 are for flat welding the last number is the type flux that is used. Stainless steel is different you match the rod to the steel.. On goverment jobs they will tell you what rod to use and provide it most of the time. I have welded for 60 years . Including under water. There are a lot of things you. Need to look up for some jobs. Like❤

peening welds and pre heat . U tube helps but will only get you so far.

What about 7014 for non structural ? My father started welding professionally in the late 50's and started his own steel fabrication shop in the 60's. It's been 20+ years since he passed but when I started working in my father's shop in the early 80's and right up to his death we mostly used 7018 for structural, columns, beams, stair stringers ect, and 7014 for non structural, furniture, art, art display baces etc.

Lincoln fleetweld 5P

Hmmm…. I’ll look for some. I have 1/8 7014, 6011 and 6013 on the place right now.

I tried 1/8 6010 couple times in AC and DC>R+S on a 40 year old Miller 300 Dialarc, I prefer 6011 it seam to wash out and fill gaps better and I thought was better on rusty steel.... Therefore for beginners around the farm thats welding dirty steel I recommend 3/32> 6011 and 7018 DC rods, thats 45 years of welding experience, 35 in shipyard........ Or better yet get a small mig welder and use .030 wire......

I normally use 6010 +++++ on my ranch most of time.

If all you needed was 2 rods they would only make 2 rods. 🤡

There is so much this guy doesn't know. I was a welding engineer for over 40 years and an AWS certified weld inspector. For general welding on mild steel the rods he recommends are OK. However the 7018 rod is a low hydrogen rod which must be stored in a dry heated rod oven which most people will not do. If not stored properly they will absorb moisture from the air which can cause cold cracking of the finished weld. It will look good when first finished but may crack hours or months after welding. For welding anything other than low carbon mild steel neither of these rods is appropriate. There are multiple "essential variables" that determine the proper rod and weld procedure.

I run a rig truck out of Hominy, Oklahoma. We aren’t far from each other.

I got a smoking deal on 14 boxes of 7010 P1 (hippie) 5/32. I’ve been running them for 6-7 months now and weld everything with them, I keep a box of 3/32 7018 in the truck in case I feel the need for them and always keep some at the shop. I really enjoy that 7010. It’s strong, runs about like 6010 but it doesn’t crack. Ive used it to weld a hitch in on my truck and built couple barns with it and they are all held up great.

If you’d like, I can give you a box to burn thru and get your breakdown of it.

only have one tip you also may wana explain an thats 6010 vs 6011 an ac an dc only welders!!

I would recommend 6013 for non critical or non load bearing applications especially if you are using a welder that only runs A/C current but I like 6010 also, runs much better on D/C but it blows holes in the joints easily if you are not careful. And yes it is not necessary to keep rods in a hot oven. I have rods that are over 30 years old and they weld just fine and always work great for repair work. They are just more likely to cause porosity in your weld beads. But I was just running some 3/32 7018 uphill last night and I was very happy with those beads. The rods I was using have been sitting around in my friends garage in an open container for at least 15 years. I was repairing and old gate with them. Nothing load bearing. Beautiful welds. I really enjoy your videos Austin.

6010 and 7018 what more is needed

I am a “Shad tree welder”

6010 is deep penetration, 7018 is high depositation. 6013 called junkyard rods are easy to weld and float rust out better.

Amen, agree 100%. 40 years welding and I can honestly say 90% of the time I use those 2 rods.

I agree 100% I welded for a good number of years and 7018 and 6010 where my go to rod for that type of work !!

I'm a certified structural welder & we use 7018 rods on the column/trusses & 6011 or 6010 on the red iron (cee or zee purlins) then on commercial buildings 7018 exept for a root pass or on roof decking to joist.

Or just get a dual voltage mig welder that’ll run flux core.

Great content sir. Thanks! 😊

My understanding is that my old school Lincoln AC 225 limits me to 6011, 6013, and 7018ac rods.

Oxy/Propane what excatly is this method used for and what is the advantage, first time I've heard of it .

Ouch…A Ross.. stick to hands on demonstrations.