Комментарии:
Another great video Dave and I learned how to changed my rear main now! Thanks!
ОтветитьWhat a BITCH these are
Ответитьyes i have to stress that the rms cannot be pushed in too far or you can have a massive oil leak. like I did lol. wrench and learn.
Ответитьwish i wouldve watched this video BEFORE I pushed the seal all the way in😖😞😟😢😓😓
ОтветитьHmm.. I don’t know.. there’s gotta be a better way than running the risk of scratching the heck out of that crank, not worth the risk imo
ОтветитьIf at first you don't succeed.... Excellent video, one question: if the oil plate didn't have a sealer on it originally is it necessary to put RTV on it?
ОтветитьGood to know thanks
ОтветитьWould this also apply to a 2010 wrx?
ОтветитьThanks for the info, great video
ОтветитьHey, I accidentally pushed my rear main seal in about 2mm past flush with the crank case. Should I remove and reinstall? Wish I had seen your video sooner! I also used a very very fine film of red lithium grease on only the inside of the seal, since I had seen others use lithium grease. Looks like dry or oil is the way to do it. These are PTFE seals, correct?
Ответитьif I'm doing this with the engine still in the car, do I need to drain the oil?
Ответитьvery nice .thank you
Ответитьwhoever dislikes this video ya mums a hoe
ОтветитьYep, that'll do it. The only thing I'd add would be to real careful not to damage the crank sealing surface when drilling the holes. A big thumbs up for using a block of wood, NOT hitting the seal directly with the hammer !
ОтветитьRace Dave = Legend 💪🏾
Replaced my clutch and now main seal and separator ... thanks man keep these videos coming bro
Great trick but adding a flat washer on the screw can help a lot ;)
ОтветитьIf you have 5 gallon race fuel jugs, the big 1/2 drive lid makes an excellent seal driver for this job.
ОтветитьStop smiling 😂
Ответитьgreat video, thank you for putting it together and showing the whole process (no trick edits)
ОтветитьThe anticipation of a new tool was AWESOME, had me perk up thinking I was gonna get to order a new tool!!!! HAHAHAHA
ОтветитьGreat video
ОтветитьDo I need to drain oil for this job?
ОтветитьWhat’s that seal part # please and what would be a good brand ?
ОтветитьI pryed out the lip on the seal then knocked it in and pryed it out again and it popped out.
ОтветитьDon't use wood screws, thread is too coarse. Use a self tapping or metal screw as they generally have a fine tread so it can bite into the seal. You also only need a very small hole, 2mm max. Doesn't help pulling out a seal and the metal plate you're levering on is pushing down on the same seal you're trying to pull out.
Doing it right the first time reduces the chances of doing any damage. Do some research as to where is the best location to to drill holes. By finding out what is behind or not behind where you drill, will once again reduces the chance of damage.
Don't get used to taking put those rear main seals like that. You'll find that you will deal less damage to the engine using a flat head that you will doing things like drilling a hole in this. You took a huge risk drilling a hole into it and trying to pry it out with a screw mounted to it.
Ответитьcan the bad rear main seal on these cause oil to pour out like crazy?
ОтветитьCut the Bull
ОтветитьWhere did you get the new seal from
ОтветитьHank you!!!!
ОтветитьI have a 2010 Subaru Forester & I believe the Rear Main Seal is leaking.
ОтветитьWhat if the drill bit hit the block it shouldn't matter as long as you dont hit the sides because i hit the block lol it went straight trough
ОтветитьHow do you know if you went too deep???
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