Should You Use Racing Oil In Your Road Car?

Great video ❤

Of course they would pay $100 for specially formulated oil if the gain is 1 HP. They would pay $10000 for it.

1: I drive old Miata 👁️👄👁️
2: I drive like an enthusiast 🏎️
3: I’m only trying it once 😅
Do i need race oil? Probably not. I can get away with just using full synthetic But I think it’s kinda valid in my case where im at 4k rpm or more on the highway to keep up with traffic. Yes I make poor decisions, so what lol

It's comical that a great many off the shelf oils at Walmart are far superior to most "Racing" oils in every respect. The uninformed will continue to be duped.

So what happens when you use racing oil for daily use. It ok or not?

I use to drive my old car at 90% throttle but then the car was a 3 cylinder 38 hp and didn’t have very much power.

Where can I buy official(not fake) Mobil1 oil ?

So you’re saying that I shouldn’t put $20 Walmart oil in my Subaru WRX with 300,000 miles

Answer: No
( no need to watch the video )

No direct mention of burning oil intentionally.

Full throttle 90% of the time sounds like me driving from work on the autobahn everyday.

Mobil 1 has come back to me as my favorite oil. I'm really liking both Mobil 1 Extended Performance and Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage with Purolator BOSS oil filters running 10K OCIs. I keep my eye on the oil level, but otherwise don't worry about the oil between oil changes.

Just use a good conventioal like Castrol GTX, and change it every 3k. Castrol numbers are as good as most synthetics, which in this country aren’t synthetic at all, not even Mobil1. Any oil gets contaminated fairly fast. No getting around frequent oil changes. Also, own a vehicle that can actually last 400k.

I really need to plasma spray a cylinder liner, it's been a while

With all these newer oils how much ZDDP content minimum should be had for an older engine with a mild flat tappet cam? I actually see a lot on the forums running Mobil-1 0w40 Euro in their classic American V8’s

Racing oil does not need to consider to protact the emission system/ engine start & stop performance/ cold start wear protection ect, select your application with the suitable type of oil can help you save money in repair.

So in summary buy a racing engine put it in your road car now you can use racing oil for your road car 😊

I just sold my old Tahoe, that has 300,000 miles on it. The only reason it lasted that long is regular maintenance. I changed parts as they wore out. Didn’t have to do much to the motor. Just out a different style valve cover on it, because the factory valve cover has a problem with the drain holes clogging up, and would cause oil to go through the Pcv and it would burn the oil

In the 80s I ran racing oil in all my street cars and my truck. Every vehicle I ran it in started leaking oil at the rear seal.

Is the oil okay for turbos like in my honda because honda uses Mobile one

Should probably use racing oil in your Ford EcoBoost. Dirty engines that need frequent oil changes (3000 to 4000 miles) due to heavy fuel dilution

Use what the manufactrurer specifies. If they're wrong they should pay for it. Racing Oil in you daily driver? no, racing oil is made for racing not longevity of the engine.

Very interested what oil that guy uses on his car???? Not Mobil for sure

Mobil is the worst oil ever made.

I have zero thoughts that “if it’s good for race cars then it’s good for my road car.” As a MechE and hobbyist racer, this makes zero sense for most components.

modern car oil drain intervals are not your friend

Usually not a good idea to change from the manufacturer specs, but if you start modifying your vehicle, it could be justified. Currently have a '06 B7 A4 Quattro 2.0T at 450000 kms. Hoping to get it to 500000.

One of the engineers who developed the engine in the Nissan GTR said these fancy, and expensive oils are unnecessary for street cars. Buy decent oil and make sure you change it every 5000 kms/3000 miles and you engine will last a long time.

Very productive share.

So what oil would you recomend for a 1979 Camaro/350 flat tappet engine slightly built?

Older video, but for anyone wanting a simplified take from a simple guy:

My race engine gets a fresh oil change after every race.

My daily truck doesn’t.

Race oil gives the max performance with the max additives for a short time, regular oil is optimized for a longer lifespan.

I have a Yamaha r6 which is basically a race bike that I rev to 16k, I think a racing oil would be good for it

So would it be safe to say to use a thicker oil if you're pushing your engine to the limit everytime you drive ?

My short answer has always been no. A racecar has 90% of its hours above 4k rpm, and a street car has 90% below it. These are two different demands, and for racing one key factor is heat - additive packages must change, and also TBN concerns don't really exist - racers change oil too often. But: can I run something like VR1 on the street? Yeah - it won't kill anything, but its overdosed for the heat load it will experience. Oil is massively complex: for engines, it may be the mother of all rabbit holes: there seems to be no end of factors to test & learn about. This video? Probably needs to be redone in about ten years.
As a side note, 2010... what else happened that year? The SN oil spec. I'm guessing racing teams were destroying flat tappets all over the place just dyno tuning alone. Does it suck? Maybe. There seem to be numbers to point to that make me wonder if SM and SP are both superior.

Friends, 90% of car drivers need longevity out of their vehicle.

Race only uses oil once; so they don't need long-life; long term detergents, et-al. So a bit irrelevant if you're wanting to know about the best oil for your machine...

very infomative

Sweet, I've been using the Mobile 1 race version of 10W 40 in my straight pipe race ski. Sounds like I'll stick with it.

Heh. You think the technical specs & performance of the OIL is a nightmare ?
Than you get the Fruit Bats in the Marketing team making a nonsense of Everything!
Case in Point 'tho Spoiler Alert coming from Bikes not Cars .....
Castrol had a great 'Power 1' motor Oil for high performance Road Bikes like my Yamaha R1.


Suddenly its vanished and been replaced by 'Power 1 RACING!'
now I knew at the time that racing oils had different specs to road (not least the detergents road oils need & race oils don't)


I rang Castrol's tech team, explained my concerns and 'sought clarification'.

By the end of that conversation I needed NO further clarification as to what the technical guys would have loved to do to the marketing idiots.

Yes, racing oils are just for high heat, high rpm operation and frequent post-race replacement whereas premium synthetic oils are for extended service intervals of daily cold start protection, efficiency, and safe emissions.

Wow that engine was beautiful

I always run Mobil 1 Racing oil or Mobil 1 Delvac Heavy Duty (semi truck) motor oil in my Toyota Corolla. I drained the factory Toyota 0W-20 oil right after leaving the dealership when I bought the car brand new in 2019. I push my engine to its limits in extreme performance situations, so I need the best protection I can get. Sure it might ruin my catalytic converter but i dont live in CA so I'll just remove it if need be.

Here because I am trying to find a 50 grade oil for 996 to slow down the bore scoring process and found Mobil 1 0w50 is track only and 5w50 isn’t. Going to try half 0w30 and half 0w50 next time

Old engine checks all the tick boxes for race engine lol. Race oil it is.

Hello. Can you please make a video of should you put 5w40 (thicker oil) into high mileage engine that recommended to run on 5w30 from factory? For example my dad had 160 000 miles camry and he put 5w40 in it. Is that safe?

Jason, please get a job on the TV show Motorweek! Your personality would be perfect for that show!

Do you know anyone that would try 20k oil change intervals? Might as well use racing oil right?

You always do a great video with great info. Thank you very much.