Drafting the Basic Pattern Set from Scratch // Basic Bodice Block Flat Patterning

I love your videos! The start of this one made me wondered whether you have ever considered spending some time with a professional tailor? Even just a day or two might be useful for you, or even a few hours here and there … just a thought …

I had this book since 2011, i needed a refresher thank you!

So grateful for this, thank you! Now if you could just ditch that imperial measurement mess…

Does the book explain why they add or subtract small increments of measurement? Like adding to length A-B and lessening on A-C?

I need a new block as well. Round about the time you've made this video I tried my third method of drafting a block. It was the best yet but produced broken (no straight) side seam. I never tried Armstrong method though. Finally! When I look at the final block with the knowledge I have now it is so simple: just measure on center front from high shoulder level (A) down to across chest line, upper bust (squares to O), bust line (squares to K) and waist. Use across chest measurement to determine shoulder slope. Mark M, O and K to your own measured arcs. Dart is easy peasy after that. And presto! Thanks a lot! ❤

My dear, ramble please. I love your videos. You are a fountain of knowledge and explain in clearly understandable language. You inspire this older lady! Yes, we need to make clothes that fit us, not that we try to fit into!

Gosh studying fashion in London and Paris sounds like a dream 😌 but saddening bc the standard dress form is so unrealistic for most women

I will order the book, Thank you. Your blouse is pretty. Now on to watching the remaining video.

Really appreciate the time that went into this as well as patience -- I know if I had already completed the process I would not want to redo all of that any time soon!! And I personally already did the front bodice (on paper) basically twice because of a couple of mistakes at earlier letter points 😂

As a total newbie it sure does take a toll on the brain, but I'm determined to minimize the muslins! Here's hoping I can get the back bodice done tomorrow and then cut out an old sheet for version one 😉

Thank you so much for walking through this for us!! 🖤

Lol, yes, one wee miss measure, and things can get wonky. Got to the armhole curve draw in and was like, "Hmm, why is there a spike in my armpit?" 😂 Luckily, if you retrace your steps, you can fix it.

thanks so much was able to follow along easily with you and the book on my way to drafting a fit block. Your tips are incredible and your insight is awesome during the process. Thanks for sharing

Thank you for your videos. After sewing for almost 25 years I finally feel more confident in my own skills and now with a lot of help from you and a little from amazing open source website, I've finally got my own perfectly fitting bodice block❤ so excited to finally try drafting my own patterns!

Turn that monitization button on! It's fine! And thanks for making this! ❤

Maybe a dumb question, but suppose the person is a bit left/right asymmetrical. In that case do you make separate blocks for the left and right sides?

As someone who’s only used commercial patterns with lots of modifications (especially in the bust area) I could never dream of drafting my own patterns. But after spending hours and hours trying to find a pattern that maybe, maybe will match my designs (because I draw my own designs most of the time) this is definitely the next step I need to make to step up my sewing game

I'll definitely use metric 🫣✋️

Great tutorial. How do you get the front dart placement?

Woo-hoo I finally got the book! Now I can make my own clothes for an inverted triangle shaped person. Going to study peplums since I am a DD top and my bum is the same as your cream colored mannequin. Not sure how I don't topple over while standing 😂.

Excellent wee film, thank you ever so much xel

Been using this video multiple times since January (9 months) to keep practicing drafting a block for myself and friends. I love it!!! If you have the space/time too, it would be really helpful to have a video showing how/where to take the measurements the instructions are asking for instead of following the standard measurement charts. Thats definitely helpful to start but would like to try something more exact. You're videos have seriously helped me so much! AND SAVED so much by being able to make my own evening wear :) thank you

I'm confused about which edition of this book to buy. Can anyone assist?

Check out Alexandra Morgan from Inhouse Pattern Studio for teaching personal measurements bodice pattern.

Great Video. That was one of my questions, how did you make your black bodice pattern pieces, now I know. Thanks. I'll give it a go.

Just discovered you. And this. And I absolutely love and appreciate your process and teaching style. Thank you for this!

Sure, I’ll go watch a look book!!!

I'm positive there are online sites for free where one can input their measurements and a custom-sized sloper or pattern block is drafted and can be downloaded and printed. I would think it would be better to start with a pattern that already incorporates the exact measurements for (hopefully) easy tweaking that won't take 3 or 4 tries.

Thank you!!!!

I bought the book - 5th Edition of HJA’s Pattern-making for Fashion Design. Referencing this video REALLY helped with constructing the bodice block. I tried it with my own measurements but agree, starting with the standard measurements is a big help. I am now making a 4th version (paper) and about to try a muslin to see how close I get with the standard measurements. Thanks too for showing how you added the side bust dart. I prefer to have that instead of a princess seam.

One thing chat GPT is good for - MATH!!!

I thought this was with OUR measurements, this doesnt work for me bc i cant afford to make a bunch of mockups to fix a pattern, i need it to fir me from the start :( also, pattern paper does not exist in my country and import it costs an arm and a leg! the fun of being from a third world country

I’m 4ft 11 inches- overweight - and am certain they used my shape when they designed the original oompah Loompas. I have to make my own clothes. But just watching this lesson has encouraged me to try something other than my usual belted poncho still. 😊

Thank you for the super comprehensive video! In most blocks there is a dart in the back shoulder seem. I don’t see one on your black block. How did you get rid of it? Regards Charlotte

Thanks so much for this video! Do you have a video (or can you please make one) showing how to take each of these measurements? I don't know how to measure my waist arc, for example, so I wouldn't know what numbers to even start with.

I'm new to sewing. I've been browsing around for commercial patterns for coats and jackets with different styles. If I buy all the ones I like, it's going to add up. That's why I want to make my own patterns. If a person has their basic bodice, can she make different styles from it, referencing line diagrams seen from pattern envelopes and coming up with some herself? I'd like to make some asymmetrical jackets myself. I came across your video at the right time.

BTW, I didn't know commercial pattern sizes didn't fit. The measurements looks close to my size and I figured I'd just make minor adjustments to the ones that didn't.

If you were to produce your fashion to sell, what measurements would you use?

Oh wow!! You’re in Colorado!! I’m in Australia, and suddenly find myself whistling….. Rocky Mountain Hiiiiiiigh, Colorado…..
Thank you for the lesson. I just finished my first chemise, very bad ☺️, I’m hoping through your lessons I might get somewhere! I know I will, because you’re fab!!!
I’m learning a whole new language too, e.g., never heard of a sloper or a block! Big thanks!

Thanks so much for posting. I have this book and it's so hard to use, thank you for explaining it so perfectly.

I've followed and drafted the front bodice. 🤯 As an absolute & complete newbie to such...this is like magic! 🤭 Question: everything I've read shows to use "standard measurements" or proportions. Is it possible to draft such a bodice directly from one's personal measurements? Or does the "magic" only work with standard size measurements then one tweaks to fit? ...I might have more questions after I draft the back. I had to let my brain rest.

p.s. - does anyone know who worked out this formula or how this process came to be? With every step I wanted to ask, "Why?" It's all just absolutely amazing that someone came up with all this!! ...and it works! Thank you so very much for taking the time to make this available. I will most likely use the pattern hack you provided in the previous video...but to now know I >might< be able to make a bodice pattern in this manner is doing wonders for my confidence level! I just can't thank you enough!

Thank you for making this video. Understanding how basic/standard/commercial patterns are constructed helps me understand how to make them fit my body better 💖

It is pretty difficult to follow along with what you’re doing without the book, but I just purchased it and I will come back. I like the way you explain things, so I feel like you’d be easy to follow along with.

Happy to have found you, CH. I am going to learn to pattern draft this year through you.

I have the same ruler but where do I find 13/16 on it? I need to see a video tutorial how to read and measure with that ruler

Tall crowd…long limbed and long waisted….😮 dresses off the rack are an issue, shirts pants etc. help! 😂

Interesting, totally different method to what i was taught, I leant there is another way. I use Winifred Aldrich's metric pattern cutting for womens wear. All the fit issue adjustments are included in the book. Anyone working in metric i would recommend this version, imperial is confusing when you're not use to it.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video

Im sorry if you've mentioned this already somewhere, but where might i find that black plastic-y looking bodice sloper for purchase?

Thank you for this, I can see why you put it off!

Hi Bianca! Thank you so much for your video tutorials and for encouraging us to draft our own patterns. Just recently I was FINALLY able to make a bodice sloper based on my measurements using Helen Joseph Armstrong's book. It took me a whole year of trial and error! Anyway, can you please add a tip jar somewhere in your links? I'd love to send you a cash gift. Thanks!

So getting a little frustrated on my first attempt, measuring is hard, It would be awesome if you'd do a video measuring someone. Preferably plus size.

The biggest size of the measurment chart in the book isn't even close to me (short and fat) so I'm trying to do this all from my own measurements. Be nice if they had some expanded charts in the book for plus and short/average/tall. And the expanded size chart from ASTM is over 60$ to purchase. 😢