Developing Black and White Film

What is the biggest ratio you can dilute the stock by to make it last longer?

Any comments to pre-washing film before adding developer?

Who makes that real that had the ball bearings in it? Thank you

Professor fixer with hardener or not? What is best? Thanx

I wish I someone was interested in this stuff I have a ton of Vintage darkroom equipment

What type of reels are those or when can I find them? Thank you.

The agitation part, should it spill out like that?

What is inside the Stop Bath and Fix Bath?

Then you sunk it to another container. I am a new on film developing.

Why is it black and white

Too many steps. Could you simply put the film into the solution, take it out and dry it and thats it.

We used a can opener to open the 35mm film many years ago.

I thought that agitation was to prevent air bubbles from forming?

What's the temp. Supposed to be when washing the film at min13? Warm water? Cold? In between?
Thank you!

I used to whack the protruding end of the spool of the cassette on the counter to push the cap off the other end, and if that didn't work, I'd use a bottle opener. The bottle opener method would usually bend the end cap and make the cassette unuseable for re-loading.
Cutting my negatives into six strips of six allowed me to make a contact print of all 36 frames on one sheet of 8 X 10 paper. A newer version of the Patterson proof printer which I used to use is still available at Adorama.

clean the film with isopropyl alcohol?

Reusing the fixer like that is begging for problems. Also touching the film with bare hands.

I’m taking a photography class and we need to develop film. This was very helpful. It’s a lot of work tho wow

I taught Photography in the 1980's at a College. The 'Normal Home Snapper' does not use ' 5 gallon Deep Tanks OR a posh 'Film Washer' --- also in UK we have to 'save water' SO we use the 'Ilford Ltd' method of washing : Rinse off gross Fixer, fill tank with Water and give 5 inversions, Empty, fill with water and give 10 inversions, Empty, fill with water and give 20 inversions, Empty, put reel into Water with Wetting Agent for about a minute, get off reel, hang to dry. Also you used loads of Developer -- you just need enough to cover that spiral set for 35mm which is 280mls I use -- luckily the College is paying for the expensive Chemicals and Water Rates not you personally . Hope you don't mind this comment -- just my 2 pence worth ( in Sterling Currency)

loved the video, I just wanna leave another tip for beginners when loading the film on the real! wen rewinding the film in the camera, don't rewind it all the way in the canister live the leader (the little bit of the film when it is new) and just fold it over a bit so that you know it's used, that makes it easier to load the film on the roll since you can begin to load it in the light. But only the first bit! that's what i do and it saves me a lot of time

Thank you so much video is clear and to the point and made me smile and feel like I can totally do this at home. You rock!

I’m taking a print photography class and this saved my life. My professor is an adjunct professor who seems to not understand I need help and have ruined a roll of film. This video saved my grade!

That's a lot of chemicals you're pouring in for just one roll of film. I have the smaller tank versions with the steel spools and it takes less chemicals. Granted, you have to have the proper bowing technique to get it loaded right. I've messed up once loading it. The film was touching itself and wrecked some frames during developing. And here's a tip for you: if you ever run out of Photo-flo, use bottled water. After the final rinse, empty the water out of the tank, pour bottled water into it and let it sit for a bit. The first time I developed, I did get streaks because I didn't have a wetting agent. Then, I tried bottled water, because the tap water is hard. It has worked for me every time. I have never used a wetting agent of any kind. Not even dish soap. I'm sure the wetting agent does a better job, but it's something to consider. And why not? A lot of people just use plain water for stop bath. I use stop bath. I just make it weaker so the bottle of concentrate goes further. I also like the fact that you did not use a film squeegee. It's not necessary and you risk scratching the film. Thanks for posting.

Informative! Greetings from Russia

Me: Wears gloves, tries to work as clean as possible, doesn't dispose chemicals to the sink...
Will Agar: hold my rodinal

Finger Print doesn’t damage the film while you ratcheting it?

Love this instructor!

I had no idea John Lithgow was into photography! (I did not read all the comments, please let me know what number “Lithgow” reference my comment was) Great presentation. I was a B&W hobbyist back in 1968.

Thank you for keeping the tradition alive...

The first ever guy to come up with this.

Tim Gunn’s doppelgänger has spoken. Brilliant video.

This video was very helpful for my girlfriend an I. We just started a lab and develop our film and others' at home. Love ya.
Gracias caallero.

Gracias caayero, you save our lives, gracias gracias muchas gracias, from Chile with love 😘😘😘💜

Best description ever

Thank you Teacher!!!! And you are just the greatest Teacher!!!!! Very good lesson, see you tomorrow? )))

you can't load the film under a red light?

"complete darkness" can be the same thing as a red "safe light?"

No gloves? Thanks so much for videos!

I learned how to develop and print film with these videos!

Close the lid

Greetings! This is a great video, I watched it and tried to develop some films - complete success so far, two times :) I also purchased an old enlarger today, so that will be the next thing to try based on your instructions.

if only i had had a teacher like will ours in the uk did not do photography it did not stop me having a life long interest though keep up the good work

Hey, Is it the last to use to clean?

*film is magic - it always will be*
1. Try medium format. Dust control is much easier. The film is HUGE in comparison. Imagine all the detail captured in that size emulsion. Try a 6x9 camera if you can, to really blow your socks off. 35mm is great but will always be a handy compromise shooting stills with a movie format. Nothing wrong with that.

2. Practice for a solid 10 minutes using stainless tanks and reels with a practice film. It's easy and cleaner. There is a satisfaction in seeing the indestructible tank and reels spotlessly clean. You never know with black plastic. Carelessness also stains the plastic reels. Again, medium format makes 35mm seem tiny in the changing bag.

3. Consider fabricating a reel film dryer. It's easy. It's a vertical metal tube with a filtered fan blowing down. The reels are held with a horizontal rod going through the tube at the base. They can sit there for a half hour if you want. For the air filter, go to an auto parts store and find a handy drum shape air filter you can put over the fan. (Cover the top of the filter of course.) The nice thing is the films go directly from the reels straight into the sleeves. Then you can inspect for streaks and dust. (If you are careful there never will be either of them.)

The digital realm is fascinating too, but transforming chemistry with photons, then freezing a living image forever on a transparency is real magic. Regards.

I already love this funny man

Just like our school back in the 70’s! Thanks!

WHY SOOO WARM IN THE CLASSROOM AT 79 degrees

I need an ASMR version of this lesson :3

In your opinion how did Ansel Adams achieve such smooth tonality and detail. I understand how the zone system and contrast control but finest of detail, sharpness is still a mystery. Which developer compounds and formulas should I consider. Thanks in advance