Inside a Toyota VVT-i Camshaft Gear!

Atleast you honist,when you don't know how things work.

Very clear explanation

If you start the car there's no oil pressure and that pin prevents the VVT from getting hammered to death. Oil pressure builds up and hold the pin in against the spring until you shut the car off.

Hi, thanks for your video. One question, I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla with 230,000 km with a manual gearbox. The fault is that when turning on it starts with 1300 rpm and as it heats up they go up to 2000, that is, it is the other way around since I understand it should drop to around 900 rpm. and already hot I go out and when I make the gear changes I see that the rpm oscillate between 2000 and 1000 rpm and when I continue the march the minimum is 2000 rpm. If I leave it running stopped the car stays at 2000 rpm. I clarify that with a scanner it does not give an error. Well we removed the carburetor, total cleaning including the MAF sensor of the filter, to clarify, you cannot remove the IAC valve to clean but the carburetion body was submerged in non-abrasive removing liquids and a lot of dirt came out. We measured TPS and IAC with a multimeter, we simulated with power and everything was fine. We checked the pipes that had never been touched and they were impeccable. We put everything together and it starts making the same failure. We took out the VVT valve, it was cleaned with carburetor fluid and wd40, I have original oil in the car, of 5 original toyota viscosity, I excited the solenoid with 12 volts to the vvt-i and it works well, I don't improve at all either. So I disconnected the EGR vacuum valve and there the rpm's dropped a little but after five seconds it accelerates and when connected it returns to 2000 rpm. If I disconnect the MAF sensor, the fault disappears but the engine idles low between 300 and 500 rpm's and the car loses power at 3000 rpm's and the brake is very hard. You can help me?

En fra'nce

honda had the right idea (V-TEC) . with the vvt-i engine it only takes one little spring or o-ring seal to go bad and the engine is doomed.

it might be CTA 9292 10mm Toyota/Lexus Head Bolt Wrench

Yo tengo el mismo problema con mi rav 4 2001

japanse thief its german tech

How many degree vvt open?

Your twisting the outer part of the cam but it is the inner portion that is advance or retarded.

The pin locks it into full retatrd on shut down. When oil pressure drops the spring overcomes the oil pressure and seats the pin in the hole.. When its seated there's no noise on cold starts. Noisy cold starts means the pin is Not in the hole and the internals rattle full retard and back to full advance very fast until oil pressure fills the chamber on one side and stops the rattle. One way is full retard the other is full advance. The design flaw on early systems was the pin was too large and with improper oil changes and use it would either not go in and get stuck or wallow out the hole and not go in. Eventually the internals break and the engine grenades. If you dont replace the assembly.. Tge linger it rattles on startup is how long you have left. Short rattle time means you have more life left , longer rattle times mean you have more worn parts and less time left. No permanent fix really other than use proper oil and on time oil changes. Good luck people.

I have 2007 Corolla with a 1zz-fe 1.8 4 cylinder, I was changing the timing chain and the VVT moved back and forth. I removed it from the cam and it rattled inside. Took it apart and one of the leaves(?) of the rotor had broken completely OFF! That was the rattling sound the engine made when started. Changed the VVT gear and no more noise!

Impressive ,genius for this vvti maker👍👍😁

thinks si

That radio station your playing sure plays alot of ads

the spring loaded pin is to hold the cam at that timing for starting and only disengages after it receives oil pressure

wait... couldnt you have purchased the 5 star heads to disassemble normally?.. where you crunched on time?

So, is it super bad that i was able to unlock mine simply by turning it? im in the midle of amajor teardown and inspection of my timing system because of a drivability issue, and i remember just one time that mine made the cold start grinding noise many months ago. Perhaps my lock pin is rounded and therefor not locking when its suppposed to. My analysis of it with my eyes and brain suggests that the lock pin is there to stop it rotating until there is oil pressure, so as to stop the cold start rattle and also to stop it form moving out of time while there is no oil pressure to hold it in time. I was undoing the little torx bolts to inspect it, (without the chain) and it just slipped, then i realised i could lock it again by turning it back, thne give it a hit with my palm and i could unlock it. Now im wondering if this is happening randomly causing my stuttering at idle, and maybe even the reason for my lack of power and code p0341, which i thought was a stretched chain.

In our 2009 Corolla, this thing makes a loud rattling noise just for a second at startup. Very annoying sound. Toyota dealership claims it's not a problem. I wonder.

WonderfuIf (ω^) Anyway, I want to challenge.
Maybe it's too big in my car and the engine will be

Nice 👍👍👍 idol

thank you for information

Muy buen video y muy bien explicado
Gracias x el vídeo

first spring and pin is to lock the timing back into retard, the pin will only move out with the correct oil pressure. those yellow plastic are seals to prevent oil escape into other chamber. VVT sprocket are not pulling timing all the time, it's like the Honda V-tec got to do with engine speed and load. Eventually all is controlled by oil pressure. the E-VVT with an electric motor in it is a different story... Great Video!!

The pin locks everything in place. When VVT system needs to change timing, oil is diverted to the pin, pushing it open against the spring, and allowing the gears to move. When oil pressure decreases, the gear locks back into place.

Thats timing advance in modern design like in the distributor advancer

Joss

It's called a pentalobe, and mulgrips would have sufficed.

👍

Thank you for the tips

Тусинбедим

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Pin is actuated by oil pressure. It keeps the cam in the low rpm position when the engine isn't running

Can you get these cams reprofiled for more power.

Alguien me puede ayudar con este ruido?

5 point bits are TORX-PLUS and are readily avail

If you dont know about the purpose of lock then what do you know about the VVT :P Lols

The locking pin is to lock the position so it doesn't rattle on start up... Unfortunately most Toyota's don't after poor oil condition

Thanks bro for a good video.

Add me to

My NEW but aftermarket phaser on QR25DE don’t stay locked for shit. It clicks allllll day long turning the crank with a wrench it clicks every one full rev of crank. There’s no reason for the pin to not be locked in retard when the crank turns clock wise and the phaser springs ahead of the cam in the same clock direction. It must be the valve springs pushing the lobes up which turn the inside of the phaser to shift forward but ONLY oil psi can unlock the pin. I’m going to RE OPEN this stupid phaser crap and stretch the spring that holds it down bcs I have harder springs and ac turbo so this makes things worse for the poooor phase. If this don’t work I’ll have to build an electric oil prime to the gear cover to prime the stupid phaser bcs I’ve been doing it with my starter. Watch my vid if you can it’s one of the most recent.

Security torx. Common on many things like microwave covers.

Yep that’s IPR I have the set and have never used it bought it by mistake thought it was torx

Can this sprocket make noise in the engine when the engine is rotating 🤔🤔❓

This piece of crap gave me headache for the past couple of days. The car I've been working on output DTC P0016. I've replaced the OCV, and disassembled/reassembled the timing chain cover for 3-4 times to double-check the timing chain markings, everything seemed ok but the problem persisted. Then after I replaced the vvti sprocket the problem disappeared. I didn't have the necessary tool to disassemble the sprocket to thoroughly inspect the sprocket in the first place.

Its a adjustable cam gear, like some after markets are sold from HKS etc. This concept is old. Check the 5SFE and the 3SFE engines, but these engines, the gear is exposed and the gear is divided in two and it only moving one part of the gear, while the other one depends (exhaust) depends on the other one for advancing or retarding the timing. These, VVT-i, are more efficient with more timing advancing or retarding timing.

You could have also filed or shaved down the sides of the bolts to fit a adjustable or spanner to unlocked them

Would a failure on the vvt-i cause the timing to be too advanced and a random misfire P0300 code?