How to Fit Door Frame Lining - Fitting Tricks

For anyone interested in the reason why we use 6inch from top and 9inch from bottom for hinge location (150 & 225mm) ...This is because traditionally doors were jointed using mortice and tenon (real wood, panel doors). Locating the hinges at these heights meant we avoided chopping into end grain of the mortise and tenon joints at the top and bottom rails of the doors.

This is the most over complicated door jamb install I have ever seen.

The sign of a true expert is the ability to explain things in an understandable manner. Robin is top class at his work and his teaching. Thank you

6 and 9 always!!! When I was a trainee years ago, I was told I was "wrong" and that it's actually 7 and 11 or some codswallop... I didn't stay with that carpenter for very long. ;-)

you're one zesty donny brev

Hi, Thanks for your videos, I am bit of jack of all trades but recently specialised in plastering. I am on the fence when it comes to what comes first, door lining or skimming? please help. Thanks very much!

why does this wanka always looks like he is in shock emotionaly

Thanks

interesting :) but you like to show off a bit :) you measured in everything from imperial to mm to 760 :) etc. the last one with (this is how we roll .. was the best :) good work)

As always a fantastic video.
I’m sure you’ve been asked it before, but are you and Richard Hammond related? 😅

Anyone know what boots robin in wearing in this video ?

You’re standing like you need a wee.

When you were staring the frame with the latts can you make a idiot proof video in more detail pls

Hi robin I was just wondering when sighting in the frame if it is on a wall where it is hard to sight a frame through can you use a string line from corner to corer I have seen this referenced on carpenters talk group on fb but have never see a video of how it work I was just wondering if it is a method that dose actually work and do you recommend it .
keep all the good work
regards
paul

Is the hinge jig / rod taking into account the 3mm gap between door and frame? Because if you go 6 inches down from the head of the frame the hinges won't be the same place as door , if allowing clearance gap. Sorry if confusing 🤣

Thank you for your professionalism

great content very well explained, but poor camerawork

over professional presentation - Easy to follow..

Lot of unnecessary things being done.

Difference between Western traders and non western is western are less skilled with overreliaant on tools and protocol.

top tip, dont trust anyone who doesnt wear a tool belt, if they have work trousers its just to make them look like they are a professional. Pros wear jeans. Not £70 trousers.

Brilliant vid everything's coming back to me from college!

What type of screws you use

What we're you fixing points set out at? Brilliant stuff gents thank you

Love you style of teaching and explaining. I'm probably just dumb, but how do you set the position for the door stops?

I did have to ask why did you use such large head screws? Wouldn’t using smaller screws or even nails ensure you don’t have to cut plugs to fill the holes? (Obviously screws are better than nails but they are unlikely to move anyway)

Also there aren’t really any videos on framing concrete like you mentioned in the video, I would be very interested to see you make a video with the old concrete walls and wedges! Often times I’ve seen the prefab concrete walls are poured with the door openings on annoying angles for some reason and getting the wedges the right angle to make the frame sit straight a pain.

Would definitely watch should you make one!!

One of the better videos on this kind of work…
I’m Australian and really struggle with American and pommy builders and their work on these videos they always seem to make it non applicable but you have done a good job

Cheers

Awesome video 👍

I always put the fixings for the liner dead centre so that the door stop covers the holes.

skill builders don johnson ....check him owt in the hot spot

Great stuff but surely lining needs cutting to height prior to fixing

This was an excellent instructional video. Robin is very meticulous and thorough.

Great joiner but amazing how we do things different. Never nail a door frame. It will always need adjustment. String line is best tool for winding a frame in.

Great video..
Building a stud wall with a doorway.
Never done it before but I'm 33 years in as floor layer.
Sure I can knock a wall up.

But what I do have to say..
Is I've got 5 drills in the van..
😂
6 including my whisk for screed..😁👍🏻

Thanks for the tips mate.

How do you remove a casing/frame in future if it's screwed and doweled like this and painted? Crow bar will ruin stud work

Nice job with the plugs! Totally PRO!

Thanks for video.

With much respect, I found a few dark spots in this tutorial, and half of this I mean in a funny way, and of course this is my opinion:


0, Twisted doorlinings can be straightened out with the fixing screws. Unfortunately rejecting twisted frames will set back the job or leave the carpenter without a job to do. ( re ordering, the years it takes to arrive, and when it will turn out, the newly ordered doorlinings are just as twisted then the rejected ones)

1, Before attaching the frame it's best to check weather the door is the size it should be. Usually they are out by 1-2 mm and the corners are not square. Specially if someone accidentally ordered them from Howdens!
Gluing together the frame? Hmmmm, only if the door is present on site, so I can check it will fit. Most of the times "the door had been orederd mate" - meaning they wont be present for the next week, and who knows what size it is gonna be.

2, also its best to heck the height of the doorway and cut back the frame accordingly, or if the opening is too high, there might be a need for an extension on the top.

3, that bottom beading is more convenient at the very bottom of the frame, so when in the doorway, it can be stepped over easily. Being on building site, other traders wont like that in the way either.

4, Where is the part, when the frame is leveled, adjusted with packers to the wall, to be straight, plum, square? That is a crucial part of this process and had been left out from the video.

Another thing is that almost never can you just put the frame even with the drywall, most of the time you will have to tweak each side a bit for the scissor to be perfect

About 95 % of the time I see people fixing both sides and header of the door and the door isn't hung yet, once you hang the door then your can truly fix the reveals 1/8 inch perfectly and not until then. When I was taught to hang doors , you made the reveal perfect every time, thus doing a great job. It's very rare you can hang a door and not have to paper behind shims to make them perfect, sure you can just throw one up and not worry about the door touching the frame on hinge side but that's a bad install...

I now know why I have cracks on most of architrave/door linings... thanks for sharing the knowledge.

Very good teacher

I really want to do this myself, but I need to make a stud wall. The door width will be such that there is 56mm either side of the lining. Worlds smallest stud?

Great video cheers Robin, love it

thanlks

YASS "It's just the way we roll" Oh how I wish my dad was here to see this vid. And some of your others, Your a true Craftsman Robin Please keep sharing your knowledge ( French polisher or painter winging about pencil lines and marks from the fitting process hehehe memories. LOVE IT.

good tips. but get a new Camera man! very hard to follow withthe edgy doumentary style shooting.

The best vid on this out there! Thanks for th e upload

If you carry on making these videos you’ll put yourself out of a job.

Just tried fitting one that was bowed, cupped and twisted.... Couldn't fit it in the car to take it back and needed it done. All I can say is that there aren't enough shims in the world.