How to Repair a Damaged Carrying Beam | Ask This Old House

Sorry to hear about Roger,.I grew up watching you guys,I know he'll be missed God speed. Andrew

I think the screw jacks are better…

it is very dangerous to support with a long 4x4 and a bottle jack. it will pop. at lease you cut a full length 4x4 for temporary support

Gave it the blessing at the end, "That's not going anywhere"

I need Tom

Great work

That's a lot of ugga duggas

When putting in the screws u didn’t need to strip every hole

Isn’t it dangerous to lift all that much at once? The carpenter engineer lifts every 3 weeks. I’m so impatient and wish he would just lift everything at once but he says it’s not safe.

Doesn't faze him one bit -

Note, i'm sure Tom is perfect, but for the rest of us, if the copper touches metal that is not copper, it starts a chemical reaction, that might take years, but it will destroy the copper for up to 6 feet from where the dissimilar metals touch. I would have put a red plastic conduit sleeve thru the hole to insulate the copper from the steel.

Tommy to the rescue!

I am not a pro by any stretch, but my physics brain is wondering why the new pole is not used underneth the angle iron a few inches away? Would I have been wrong if I fixed the new pole under the sistered angle iron?
Please forgive me for asking, I am simply curious.
Great job by the way, you make it look so easy!! I am sure I am not the only one that was blown away by your added details regarding this entire project. Awesome job!!

How do the scres in the metal plates at end of post keep the post from sliding out since it is not connected to the plates?

Amazing explanation! It's very clear and helpful in terms of structure elements and also the solutions.
Specially about blocking between the joists and their role. Very well done. I'm grateful 👍🙏

Good except for the Shark Bites

They didn't cut the beams short..its called shrinkage😮 (Seinfeld pool episode)

How are the floor joists being secured to the beam if there is now that metal piece in between?

Don't the lally columns need a proper footing below the thin concrete slab? The thin concrete slab could fail if it doesn't have a proper footing below to disperse the weight properly.

This is fantastic! Thank you!

Push-on fittings are more expensive and are prone to failure within about 10 years. They work very well in a pinch and/or when the homeowner can see them on a daily basis. Putting them into a finished wall or outdoors will tend to become problematic.

what if the main carrying beam is twisting? could i fix by using jack post

It was all a bit shaky until Tawmy intoned the magical incantation, "That's not going anywhere."

Lally column?

Oh, Tawmy.

Plumbers HATE structure.

(That includes HVAC tube-rammers.)

I need help can a regular contractor replace a structural beam?
was taken out was supporting the back of of the house subfloor.

They did this without a permit.

They tried selling us the home when the inspector called it out they fixed/replaced it in 1 day?

Usually takes 3 weeks for a permit?

Called a company that specializes in that work they said usually a 3 day repair.
Is that legal?

Well, over tightening your lags is the same as drilling a hole the same size of your lag. Just don’t do it. As @ryanksiazek stated, a structural engineer would have to approve. Unless you’re not worried about code…..

I’ve probably watched this at least 10 times, still enjoy this video

That one lag screw he put in is striped lol

This is great! I have a girder beam under my living room with 2 ft of old termite damage. I think this will fix the problem.

angle iron must rest on the support beam on both sides so that it replaces damaged and cut center wooden beam.

it does little in this repair. for example if beam splits in half right where previous contractor cut a huge hole, than steel angle will hold two pieces of beam via lig bolts… since it is screwed on one side, beam will twist and break. basically useless

I am surprised that the steel reenforcement angle did not extend to where the new post was installed to make the reenforcement more secure. Is there a reason? Was it cost? Or am I missing something fundamental?

So happy to I 🎉found this video, thank you

Hello,
I presently live in a home that have sagging floors. I have decided to purchase jacks and lift the floors from the basement. My question is are there any prep work required on the 1st and 2nd floor prior to installing the kicks and lifting? Do I need to be concerned with baseboard trim, door trim, or anything. I have received my drawings on where to place the jacks. I understand that my plaster and drywall will also begin to crack in some areas. I just want to get level floors before I purchase my new doors and install new trim.

The house I'm in some knucklehead build a bulkhead basement exit framing the door centered on the carrying beam , so the beam is centered over the door frame .....

Do you have any videos on the cylinder block wall starting to crumble, where the main (steel) beam rests?

Wouldn't you want the support post under the steel?

What's the size of that large pipe cutter and where did u get it? b/c the largest i've seen is only a 3" and that Lally column seems at least 4" in Diameter

That's criminal cutting a big hole through a main beam.

That’s white man knowledge right there

you overtightened that lag screw

Can you tell me where I could order one of Lolli columns with the Concrete in it

I'll send the bill for $13, 999.53 in the mail tomorrow.

All these fools in the comments with their Facobook degrees 😂😅😂😅😅