Build Smart: The Many Ways to Install Your Muzzle Device

Had some JPs comps many years ago, they make awesome products for a fair price! Support these companies for their hard work on delivering great products w/o breaking the bank!

Hello Dustin, thank you for this very informative video. What is your opinion on threading "sporter" barrels on high power rifles like a 300 win mag? The skinny barrels of these guns lots of times are hardly thick enough to thread of 5/8-24 UNEF. And even if you can, you're not left with much of a shoulder to bud up against. Threading 1/2-28 on these rifles leaves one with a very marginal wall thickness creating a potential dangerous situation with these high powered rifles. I'm very curious to hear how you deal with these situations?

Use a level on the rail on an assembeled rifle to install a muzzle brake. If you install the muzzle brake first, good luck gettin' your gas block on... just sayin'!

Will this guide work in removing on pin and welded (as per info in the website) comp for the like of JP-5?

I intend to switch between comp and suppressor with it

What happened with the double crush washer link in the description below?! lmao
What about the "peel washer"? I've never even heard of this wizardry until now. I'm assuming it's basically a washer made up of shim layers that can be peeled away one at a time, or so it seemed. Seeing as how this is an older video (based on Dustin's level of discomfort in front of the camera compared to more recent videos) I wonder if the "peel washer" technology has since been phased out or proved problematic in some way. Thanks for the demos, and keep that juicy JP content a comin!

I wasn't sure if he likes the JP vice block. Did he happen to mention it?

My 419 hellfire cause my dd5v3 to fail to feed? What do I need to remedy this?

Where do I find one of those “JP Comp Wrench” — or any comp wrench for that matter? Is that even a thing? I’ve been looking all over and can’t find any. Thanks!

Blue locktite?
That has a pretty low operating temp.
I have heard of using it for castle nuts, but barrels?

nice video but do you need a jam washer if you where going to silver solder a comp to a 14.5 barrel

Nope. Not a JP. 🤣

How do you square your recommendation to use blue Loctite with the fact that it has a maximum operating temperature of 150c/300f and an AR15 barrel can easily exceed that during even moderately heavy use?

Hey! Is that a JP vice block that he's using? Not really sure if he mentioned it.

Which direction should crush washer face?

I got my JP phone here, watching on my JP couch, as I drink my JP orange juice.

My recent JP muzzle purchase has terrible finishes, your muzzle is so unfinished, sharp burrs everywhere and still attached to the muzzle, JP horrible quality control before heading to your customers.

So with the crush washer you never need to back off and move forward like other crush washers? I ordered some and want to make sure I do it properly.

Loctite on a barrel? Loctite breaks way before the temps barrels normally get to.

Don't get me wrong as I have JP something on almost every "project" I own , but thought it was funny when he said it eliminates jump just as it jumps then edit out the last turn he did on it almost makes you wonder if it jumped again 🤔 🤣 🤣

Ouch blue lock tight? blue will melt right away after one mag dump. need to use red if you're going to use a loctite type method.

How about a vid showing how to secure the barrel of a bolt gun?

Just the information I was looking for, thanks!

Why would anyone use a crescent wrench?

jp makes good shit


sold me on those vice blocks

hey guys ive found crush washers for cheap under 3$ shipped on ebay  heres the link
@t

Last attempt didn’t show timing

Regarding the last method shown, somehow it would seem a better idea to remove material from the muzzle break rather than cutting away on the barrel. Modify the less expensive piece and keep the barrel standard. Let me know if I am missing something.

This may be a stupid question..
But do you lube the threads before mounting the comp? I’m scared of corrosion 😕

Good video 👍. I am thinking about using the double crush washer

there is to much info missing. what is the proper way to align holes. they never say what way the barrel is facing????

What good is a level unless you ensure that the vise, table and even floor are perfectly level ?

You end up pre loading tension into the barrel by tightening it like that. As the metal expands it twists....thus changing the effects of the brake as well as accuracy. Just saying.

I’m buying your recoil eliminator, what tool do I need to install it? Which method except the 4th do you recommend? The rifle is Howa chassis 6.5 creedmoor #6 heavy barrel. Thanks.

Too far away showing the muzzle and not zooming in to see up close. Wearing a black shirt didn't help seeing either with the poor lighting. A red shirt would have been better.

Good video, but it is better to do muzzle work with a barrel vice? Not you, but novice builders may accidentally torque too hard one way or the other and bust the sleeve of the end of the barrel. I've seen it happen a few times. A barrel vice assures no damage will occur to the upper or the barrel in the case of over torquing ; mostly when getting a stuck device off the barrel, or one that was for some reason thread locked.

Hey Dustin. Nice video. I'm right-handed, so I time my comps with a slight tilt toward the one o'clock position instead of perfectly level. This helps to minimize the dot movement to the right. I learned this tip from a Jerry Miculek video. Is it possible for your to accommodate this? I recently ordered a JP 14.5 9mm barrel with comp pinned/welded. By the way, do you make a titanium comp in 9mm?
Thanks.

No link for the partner company that does the blended timing.

No link!

Cool vid, very helpful!