Don't Skip Learning These Historical Sewing Techniques

Thank you so much for watching! What other historical sewing techniques would you consider to be must-knows?

Thank-you for this detailed and comprehensive video! I'm just a ordinary person who's interested in hand sewing and historical methods purely as a means to start mending and making clothes sustainably due to my more eco-friendly and autonomous lifestyle. Although I'm not a fan of sewing, I like the durability of historical sewing methods and I can appreciate the need for more meticulousness and time in sewing which in the long run, will save you work. I learned so much in this video so thank-you again! :D

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I love doing sleeves! But I love doing big ridiculous mutton-chop puffs, so my secret is: go Large, pin generously, leave large seam allowances, and whip stitch first. Sleeves can be fun!

Starting to sew a 18 century outfit, just finished an apron, wanted to start easy, im now making a shift...i have been watch as many videos as possible...love ur videos its help me a bunch...

it says the fabric care video is private.

A technique that I struggle with is setting gores by hand... any guidance you could give would be great ^.^ Also, also - your wardrobe inspires me. Thank you for making this content. <3

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Does anyone know how I could find resources for 16th and 17th century techniques?

I just started watching your videos and I love the information you have on historical fashions I myself were them I’ve been sewing over 40 years and I to love to hand sew

I would encourage you to watch the movie My fair lady. Especially the ballroom scene.

Great list! One thing I find very useful and only discovered after some years of sewing - pulling a thread in order to mark a very straight line to cut on. Only works for tabby weaves and only helps when you need straight lines, but oh boy are they straight then

Yes, I know, I know. This is an old video. This is a comment for the algorithm.

Thank you for this video! I thoroughly enjoyed it and learned new techniques that I will use shortly in making a period piece.

Very helpful, thanks

I don't use pre-made patterns for the sole reason of I don't own a printer. I usually just figure out how to draft the whole thing from the beginning and just keep the patterns for latter reference.

I would love to see a video on practicing these techniques. I don’t want to waste fabric but I want to hone my skills.

I’ve so far only made a few historical style garments, and have only been exposed to the Georgian method of lining. It was really fascinating to see your examples here of Victorian lining.

You have made a useful list of the things to learn about historical sewing methods. As for patterns, I prefer to draft from measurements using books, including old books.

I've been watching videos put up by The Closet Historian. She is a master of pattern manipulation, and I have learned so much from her.

Sleeves are also sewing. I only handsew and love it. Thats how I enjoy sewing sleeves🙃

Remember to turn your pattern over to do the other half !
When you've made two left hand gloves before noticing the slight technical hitch ...... and despite years of experience of having two opposite hands, and using both of these opposite hands in making the said gloves.
My only excuse was I had made one on one day and the other on the following and forgotten to turn my card pattern over. Unfortunately no extra soft thin (expensive) grey leather ......... cut, snip, trim, reverse ..... more seams than on a corset, half hidden by all the gold embroidery applied afterwards. Not my most successful personal project. I can laugh now, sort of 😢

I know Im a bit late but I found and watched that video only now. I think all your points and techniques are great! I would only add: Learn how to iron/press your seams/hems/fabrics while sewing. I HAAATE ironing finished garments, but while sewing pressing seams and/or hems is cruicial for me. Everything looks so much neater, and some things are much easier to sew if pressed beforehand.

Enjoyable...hope this stays about costumes and sewing...and not politics and other sundry fluff.

Thanks for this great resource.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown

What tutorial do you have on how to grade a pattern? I have several historical patterns that I have not made due to the pattern size vs my measurements

A big oh yes on the Where is your waist bit! I've only recently begun to think that perhaps my actual waist is where most people call the high waist. I detest altering patterns but for sure, necessary evil! And I adore, adore, adore pintucks! No idea why, I just think they are so darling! Alas, so time consuming too. Oh, I really enjoyed the section on Edwardian vs Victorian linings, I don't think I have ever seen that mentioned anyplace. Thanks again!

This is quite the resource!

I have heard so many sewists decry making and setting sleeves. I understand that setting 18th-century sleeves is a whole different ballgame, but honestly getting bodice darts to do their job without looking wacky is much more of a problem for me. I am full-busted and the bust points have begun to lower as I age. Thank goodness for mockups.

This is a great deal of helpful information summed up quite succinctly. The inclusion of additional resources in the description is admired and appreciated, as always!

Thank you so much for your informative content. I remember watching you since the beginning and i truly hope that you will be more recognised.i look forward to your future videos and thank you for bringing us along your journey.

Thank you very much for this video. I am just at the beginning of my historical sewing journey and this video help me to sort out (sorry, my English is not very good, hope I choose the right word) information. And it is really inspiring to hear that you don’t use sewing machine: it always scared me to think about such amount of work. But when I hear that some people hand-sew their clothes it doesn’t sound like something impossible.
I’ve been sewing modern clothes for about 15 years and my biggest problem is hemming. Sewing sleeves is easy, but hemming is really hard.

This was very informative. Thank you.

While I don't intentionally do historical sewing, I seem to gravitate naturally toward many of the methods myself. I especially enjoy the Georgian hem (just had no idea what it was called).

Tysm for another seamlessly crafted video!

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Sewing is an on going learning process. Those of us who sew regularly are always on the look out for tips and simple tricks of the trade to help a project come together better and neatly. What ever the project may be. I myself am an entirely self taught sewer. There was a lot of trail and error since my mom didn't really want to teach me for some reason. So it was up to me to figure it out on my own. When I was 10 she got me a little embroidery project. Probably thinking I would get bored of it and stop asking her to teach me. It didn't. It only added fuel to the fire for the desire to learn. Whenever we went to the library, I would look at embroidery and sewing books. I got pretty good at making small clothes by had and by the time I was 13 I was making Barbie clothes for my little sister out of scrap fabric, where ever I could find it. When I was 14 my mom finally caved and taught me to use her sewing machine and one of my very first dress patterns had princess seams. I couldn't make sense of them at first either, now they don't phase me. Though if it had occured to me then you can make garments out of sheets I probably would have been dresses to match the books I was reading. I probably would have made what I imagined at the time what a Swiss dirndl looked like and gone running through the pastures with my copy of Heidi. Or a Civil War era dress imagining I was one if the March sisters with Little Women. I might have looked every bit as ridiculous as Jane in Disney's Tarzan tromping through the jungle in her bright yellow bustle dress, but it would have made for some great childhood memories. 😉

This was a wonderful list. And I can’t wait for that video on the English stitch. 🥰

Good points here! I would add a philosophical tip for newbies: celebrate minor victories and embrace the process. When you start out everything can be confusing and seem insurmountable problems. And there is soooo much to learn and research in historical costuming. But even after one or two projects you will have learned so much. Pat yourself on the back. Write down things you learned. Then give yourself a gold star (literally or metaphorically). I still smile at my first handsewn 18th century pocket. But if you spend a lot of time berating yourself sewing won't be fun. We all had to learn this stuff and everyone has challenges. You aren't a "failure" because something has to be ripped out and redone. You are a sewer!

Who would Dislike this video???

Thank you so much for the delightfully detailed Table of Contents!

Thank you for these great tips, it is perfect for anyone like me who is just getting into this hobby!!

Saving this video for future reference! I feel like I say this every time, but the editing and use of high-quality shots of the things you are talking about are absolutely on point. The combination of concise and thoughtful explanations with close-ups and clear examples was perfect. Always a joy to watch your videos!

I prewash everything, its mother and its mother’s duck. It’s fascinating seeing what the fabric does without the sizing!

One of the reasons I got the mannequin I did was due to it having a hem marker! And it was on sale and my dad bought it for me because I was doing so much theatrical costuming for him.

I like drafting my own patterns, because I find it a lot easier. A full bust adjustment is just as difficult and finicky, might as well just draft it all myself. Plus I’m very stingy, and I’m too lazy to tape together patterns if I don’t have to.

Something that I’ve found useful (whether it’s HA or not) is fo make bodice blocks for each of my supportive undergarments. So I have a bodice block for when I’m wearing stays, and one for when I’m wearing a corset, for example. From those blocks, I’m able to add design features and draft out a pattern that I like. I got the idea from Bianca, The Closet Historian, as that’s how she makes her patterns for her clothes (though they’re more 1950s). Still, the idea is the same.

I also have a basic sleeve block. From there I made an 18th century sleeve, and also a puffy long sleeve, by changing the length, or the sleeve cap, or the volume. And now I have a bunch of different sleeve patterns for different eras, all based on my original sleeve block. Just like with the bodices.

I don’t have any skirt blocks as of yet- most skirts are pretty easy to put together I find, so I’m likely to just make a pattern for each skirt I need and then keep those for future skirt needs.

I know that 18th century dressmakers would keep the shapes of their clients, so I think using a bodice block to make patterns off isn’t too different. And I know I’ll get a great fit, because I already spent the time making sure that the block fits perfectly. So even if it’s not perfectly HA, I still think that learning to make a block is a good idea, if only because it’s a perfect crash course in how to get a good fit.

I love your channel because you teach the very basics that most big historical channels don't teach. Which is exactly what I need as a beginner.
I never lined anything for now, I really have to learn how to do it 😬😬
I would also add to the list Bodice and Skirt blocks for every era you are interested in. I made a modern one and a 1880 one. They are basic bodice patterns made to your measurements and that fit you perfectly. With these you can make any pattern you desire that you know will never have fit issues, as you have already solved those issues making these blocks (you draft the pattern to your measurements, you make mockups and fix the issues you have, you then modify the pattern and trace it on sturdy paper). That way you will never have to buy a pattern and make alterations for EVERY pattern you buy.
I learn this concept on the Closet Historian channel and loved it and I never have to buy an ill fitting pattern again!!
For example in my blocks on the mockups I enlarged by 0,50 cm on both sides of the front bodice, and shortened the shoulders which were too wide for me. Also since you draft them yourself the pattern will already include fundamental things like short waist or long waist and big or small bust and the armhole size. I have a super short waist and medium size bus, on the first mockup the pattern already fitted almost perfectly. Use drafting manuals to make them. It is a long process but 100% worth it.

Once again I have no tips or recommendations regarding sewing, but I like how the rouge complements the scarlet colour of your bodice, along with the deeper reds/purples of the feathers in your... hairpiece? Fascinator? I'm not sure of the period-correct term. Gorgeous look anyway. :)

Thank you, I find this very helpful! I will try the "Georgian Method" for lining and I look forward your video on the english stitch.

I think that your channel is the most useful when learning about historical sewing because other similar channels are more about “i made a thing!” Or “the history of this garment”, and It’s not that I don’t absolutely love their content, they just don’t explain stitches and other small techniques that are important for beginners. I think it’s because they’re professionals or have been doing it for so long that they forget that it’s not common knowledge.

Great must-knows, I really need to get myself a hem marker.
Love the little vintage sewing kit in your end card as well!