RC Car UPGRADES vs Option Parts, which do you need?

This was definitely very useful. I learned with my first rig that you don't want everything aluminum. If you have some durable plastics, the flex from an impact will help so that the metal doesn't stay with that odd shape after an impact. For my bashers I always looked for Proline plastic parts as they were stronger.

Do yourself a favor and buy bearings off amazon instead of the expensive ones. They are just as good. Trust me, I have friction welded enough parts into my plastic pieces. Also, I would not suggest removing the grease in them. It doesn’t have to be perfectly free.

Why do so many people swap to aluminum hubs? I’ve never broken a hub

Don’t upgrade. A new car comes out every couple months. Just plan on getting new car’s frequently

Have you tried 1up racing cv joint lube. Works great. I use it on the ball joints . Pretty much anything that has a pivot point.. doesn't attract dirt.

Thanks, Ryan! I was leaning toward the Tekno buggy but after finding and binging on your videos, I had no choice but to go with the 22X-4. I've been out of racing for a very long time and never ran 4WD buggy even when I was racing. The tracks near me are off-road with loose to medium traction. Would you recommend I build the car with the included slipper or go for the optional center diff?

Cool .

Informative stuff! Thanks!

I need my Senton 3S and 6S to carry more cargo without stressing the motor or ESCb unduly. I should gear the pinion down? Smaller wheels may be better too? I'm not worried about acceleration or excessive speed. I want fast, but cargo is more important.

The difference between bashers and racers is soooo big... I always have to mentaly switch when talking to a basher. They mostly talk about durability, racers talk about lap times and how the car feels. Really never spoke about durability during my RC Racing career.

is a fan beneficial or is weight and power consumption an issue in racing.

Um, springs !

DLC coated shock shafts and hing pins.

Thanks!

Awesome video Ryan. Have a good one :-)

I took the alum bulkhead on my 6.3d for a little heavier nose. Also helps a touch with stiffness

What part of the world do you live in?

Carbon chassis is an very good option for hard bite tracks. Not on clay, carbon worn out very quickly but chassis protection will solve that out.

Puck system for the stock racing guys

#1 upgrade is tires
#2 weight and many times adding weight is the upgraded.
#3 body and wing

Great video, I run a b10 6.2 and I run outside in the summer, and carpet in the winter her in Wisconsin, as a amateur I broke many plastic Front bulkheads, so I swapped to a Aluminum, Solve that problem, Especially indoors I hear people breaking bulk heads everyday, Take care, hope to see ya in Wisconsin soon!

HI Ryan, What upgrade bearings for the loss 22 5.0 2wd would you recommend? Great channel many thanks 👍🏻

If i was to buy a 1/8 scale kit, while being a newbie an not really knowing what kit to buy what are some suggestions? Also are the RTR's able to be upgraded to a pro point, do you get the same chasis as you would with a kit?

What about an aluminum steering rack/bellcranks

Diggin the RWB shirt

Looking for an option you used to run but doesn’t seem to be available for the 5.0 ??
Stand up or a lay back transmission???
Has this been discontinued
I still run loose dirt and have been looking for this but I’m only finding the 4.0 transmission
Do you know ??

Haha funny you mentioned that I have all red anodized parts on my dirt oval slash 😂😳

Do you/ can you do a video on slipper eliminator change over?

I see carbon fiber slipper clutch pads available all the time. Are they of any benefit out side of visually looking better??

I remember the all aluminum tmaxx on the counter at my hobby shop. Thought it was the best,until my friend got arms and stuff. Bent them all first crash..lol

Random question, I just got an 1/8th scale 4wd buggy. Anyone know where they get a consistent class of them in Central FL? I'm in the Tampa Area

I laugh when I go racing and see guys that have all the latest bling kit and then do things like have dry old o rings In the shocks and oil that is far too stiff for a bumpy track or empty diffs . You don’t need the latest kit you just need to learn about what you do have and look after the basics such as smooth suspension and spend the money you save on tyres and decent batteries ( not big brand names) just decent cells such as turnigy . Most come from the same Chinese factory and are just rebadged with a premium price .

Good info Ryan!! When I purchased my B6.3 most of the guys in the Facebook group suggested an aluminum bulkhead. Some said they broke it the first day on the track. They say that and the titanium screws are the 2 upgrades to get before building. Me…I did not!! Maybe later. Lol

Hi Ryan, i'm driving a Tekno ET410.2 and i'm planning to go with an 2wd buggy in 2022. What would be your choice? I know that you are driving losi, but here in germany it is hard to get sareparts for trl. So what shoud i pick? Xray, asso, yokomo or Schumscher? Thanks a lot Sebastian

Im driving a wltoys 104001, the new 4wd race buggy they put out, and honestly i love it. Ive got the electronics converted to a brushless 3s setup, the aluminum swapped to 3mm carbon fiber, and honestly she handles as well as any associated or losi buggy ive ever seen. Was SO pleasantly surprised. I did manage to break the front driveshaft on one side, so i swapped it to an associated b64 set and it fit perfectly and was probably a durability improvement tbh, hasn't broken since.

For a 150 dollar car its just unbeatable, i paid 230 for an ebay order when it was backordered everywhere and i dont even regret overpaying, its just that good imo.

Some aftermarket slipper clutches are better than factory versions on some kits.

GREAT INFO RY

One of the things to consider with titanium tie rods is that the lack of flex can cause more broken parts. I have had an increase in broken parts with new ballcups and titanium turnbuckles. The flex may be more forgiving for beginners who don't land every jump the right way.

Protip- If you are upgrading to titanium from steel parts and accidentally mix them up:steel is mildly magnetic while titanium isn't. You can use a magnet, or brushed motor, to quickly determine which is which.

Ryan this video was awesome! I just got a Lodi 22 5.0 roller because of watching your channel. And I’ve been wanting to upgrade it but didn’t want to waste my money. You really helped me see where I should be focusing my attention! Thanks love your videos!

which option part for hobao hyper vs nitro

Yet another good video.. I run mostly on turf/ carpet and our front ends take a beating. Hence, i run aluminum front bulk heads. They are more durable and we can afford to lose some flex (grip). The down side when running "upgraded" metal parts, especially ones that have so many parts tied in, is being extra careful to use a thread lock of some sort and even then you have to pay attention to the car as things can come loose even when thread lock is applied. Taking away flex adds stress to other areas...

Another great video, Ryan. This was a great topic to cover. 'Really appreciate the extra love you gave to the title plates/transitions, too. Great touch.

My inner hotwheels nerd went full NOOOOO when he said he was gonna open it

One of the best RCCA articles I remember said this about "hop-ups". They will either improve strength, lower lap times or improve looks. Some will give more than one of these. The more the better. The rest are up to the owner. For me if it improved strength and lap times, I was in.

If a pro can take a car out if the box box stock with maybe exception of servo horn going to aluminum and win races so can the rest of us

Aluminium servo horn especially if your running a high torque servo. Plastic servo horns can’t always cope.

Cool t-shirt Ryan!

"my brain was hurting a little bit". :) that made my day

2 min in the video and you said it all , great job again on the vid THX

Not mentioned in detail are something more than obvious that DOES have an impact on your speed/handling/whatever - CONTROL ARMS. I got tired of replacing dogbones and CVD shafts on my Tenacity every time it barrel rolled so I bought some aluminium control arms and haven't bent another 'bone.
They're a bit heavier but come with more adjustment points for the ball studs and shocks so it's an upgrade rather than an option.

And the elephant in the room is SHOCKS. Stock shocks on lower-end RTR and race kits are often lacking in one way or another. Just throwing in a different set of spring front or rear could drastically change your handling.