Комментарии:
just seen this. it was awesome\ very clear and helpful Thank you
ОтветитьAre you saying access or axis?
ОтветитьUpgrade list. 1. bi metal heartbreak 2. Klipper 3. Klackender 4. Orbiter with Orbiter filament sensor 5. Duel beltded z 6. uart mod to 4.2.2 motherboard 7 duel part cooling fan. cheaper and in my opinion best upgrades.
Only thing needed to buy is Orbiter and filament sensor, a belted z motion kit, a second fan. And something to run klipler $300 maybe
Show me stuff that thoughtfully improves performance
ОтветитьHello Dear Friend !
I have to ask you. if you can help me solve the problem that arose after replacing the motherboard on my 3d printer, in particular, the problem is: my old motherboard stopped working, it went bad and I bought a new Creality 4.2.2. this device has a processor with the number (in this order it is written):
GD32F303
RET6
AUJO484
AZ2219
GIGADEVICE
ARM
I connected very correctly and carefully all the wires and turned it on after connecting. I checked and made test movements of the carriage and hot end, everything works well in this case, Z works well too, auto return home also works well, the mechanics are good. but as soon as I want to print something >>> only X and Y axis work well, Z does not work , does not rise up during printing, although the filament arrives and is printed on one layer, I do not understand and do not know how to fix this problem, the warranty period has passed because I have not been at home for a long time and the seller does not return it back.If you can help, or suggest where to look for a way out of this difficult situation, please help, I'm not strong in computers and programming so that I can flash "it" myself, that's why I turned to you with this request! I look forward to good news from you.
BEST REGARDS,
GEORGE!
That is so much added weight on the gantry.
ОтветитьThis is interesting, but total waste of money. I bought the Bambu Lab P1P printer for CAD$ 900/-. Corexy printer, plug and play, and prints 3 to 4 times faster than my Ender 3 V2. Excellent output all the time. Printed the enclosure with doors for $150/-.The Ender 3 cannot print at a higher speed or better with all the upgrades. My Ender 3 V2 prints good after attaching the CR touch unit, and using liquid glue Bed Weld for good adhesion at all times.
Ответитьif youre going to spend 1k on a printer you might as well go with bambulabs p1p
Ответить270 dollars of upgrade and no test print. Sensetional :)
ОтветитьThat 4010 blower is wildly insufficient in a satsana setup. You'd be better off fanning it with your hand lol
ОтветитьI didn't know they made digital vernier calipers 🙄
ОтветитьIs there a liner rail kit that works with the ender 3 v2 neo?
The kits im seeing online currently look a bit different than the one in your video
For that kind of money you may as well buy a good printer to begin with
ОтветитьThis is a waste of money. Could literally just buy a better printer for less.. This is like a Honda with VTEC... "C'mon kids, let's put lowering springs and a spoiler on it. It's gonna be so fast." All that aside, thanks for taking the time to make the video and at least help people learn.
Ответитьall those expensive upgrades and you chose a BL touch instead of a CR touch
ОтветитьThanks for confirming things by phone today. Much appreciate it PJ! I look forward to getting my kit and upgrading to the rails. I will be losing my LED side lights so I'll just redesign a carrier for it and put them into there. I also have the sprite extruder pro on mine, but I suspect it shouldn't have issues with installation, maybe need to design a new plate for it. I also will be running the Sonic Pad with it, which I've been running for several months, and it's been great! Thanks again for the quick bit of convo today. First-time 3D Printing Canada customer and so far, it's been a wonderful experience!
ОтветитьNice 👍 built n upgrade. Is there a difference in performance or quality after $$$ input? I like to upgrade mine if so.
Thanks for sharing a wonderful work.💕
Dual lead screw but only one motor. Interesting choice.
ОтветитьDid you design this kit?
Ответитьbut will this stop my failed prints that are 6 days long......
ОтветитьWould this work for the Ender 3 S1?
ОтветитьHighlly recommend using a magnetic parts tray when doing any work with all this small hardware.
ОтветитьGood upgrade
ОтветитьFlex build plate, yes
Linear rail xy, yes
Linear rail z, unnecessary
Microswiss direct drive, God NO! What a relic. So many better options.
Dual z, yes.
Bed probe, yes
Lacking z frame braces and if your going to swap the bed caddy might as well go for a 3 point.
Putting a grand in a V2 you need your head checked😂
ОтветитьHow this cost 1000$
Ответитьwhat are those allen screw drivers ?? Im liking the design
ОтветитьGreat video. First time I've seen all these mods in a single install video.
I must ask... What is the cost difference between this build and buying a few more parts and simply building a printer from scratch?
The cost of the original parts that are now not being used vs buying all the parts that are being kept... But as al la carte?
Isn't it simpler and cheaper to buy a more expensive and better quality printer?
ОтветитьThis seems like a complete headache to me No reason To be that difficult In my opinion why not put everything on the plate and just attach it to the rails
ОтветитьHardly a 1000$ build, but indeed very good upgrades I've also got them in my E3V2 I prefer to use 5 linear rails to also have 2 on the Y axis.
ОтветитьOr just buy a voron or something along those lines
ОтветитьFinally after 10 days got mine printing good for the second time. I found out that the First Med measurement video I was watching wasn't worth a damn. The second one had really good results. Then I started printing accessories for my printer and the first one I did was a handle which was three pieces the big part of the handle in the middle would print but the two little Corners after they got about 3 in would tip over every time
Ответитьcould you please share the link to the stl for this Satsana fan ducts ??
ОтветитьAll those upgrades and you still can't print over 260. Weak.
ОтветитьI always recommend keeping good parts that you remove when you upgrade something. If something happens to the upgrade part, you have the old part as a backup. It might not be the best, but, it can get you going temporarily until you can get a new part. Also keep any screws, nuts and washers. You never know when they might come in handy
Ответитьmeasured the linear rail distance on the z. but didn't check if the z posts are in the exact same spot. there's at least 1-2mm of play each post O.o. also i don't get ringing on my stock 3v2 unless i push speeds so i don't see it as the main reason to change to linear rails. you should o f said it is for higher speeds not less ringing.
ОтветитьFully?>Sorry bud but spending a lot of money for minor upgrades is not the best way to spend. Sorry you are missing so much in life.
Ответить$1000? Idk about all that lol.
ОтветитьWell nice build video. But taking into account this upgrades cost hundreds of dollars do they actually worth it? Do you have any print comparison for each upgrade?
ОтветитьOr, buy a better printer to begin with.
ОтветитьLeaving the stock part cooling on is a major oversight when this much money and time is spent in upgrading the printer in my opinion.
Also given the general price of the upgrades I would have expected dual Z steppers along with a 5 or 6 stepper driving capable mainboard, but the improvements there are arguable.
I'd love that hotend if your never going to use it (the default one)
ОтветитьI've updated on my 4.2.2 with BL touch following this guideline, but the BL touch is still just a solid red, and nothing is updating on my screen. Any suggestions?
ОтветитьYou forgot to do the silent fan mod😉🤪
ОтветитьWhy don't they just add a small snap in metal stop for the rails.. why on earth would anyone want to by a solution that can fail just because their is no end stop.
ОтветитьYes! for some things...
To turn a stock Ender 3 V2 into a whole different smaller print size beast!
It's ok good thing, but only replacing both Y and X-axis rails with linear rails.
The Z-Axis is stronger with stock wheels. It doesn't need it because moves much... only slowly raise up or down.
By switching out all the wheels with linear rails.
It is a big wasting your time and money, better spent elsewhere on your 3D printer
buy a better printer in the first place. A longer size printer like a Voron 2.4 corexy 3d printer kit 300*300*300mm