Should You Still Build A Voron 2.4? (LDO Rev C)

have you gotten TPU printign to work on the stealthburner?

i seem to insanely struggle with my 2.4 R2

Do the AWD Monolith mod!

One thing I've experience with my 350 2.4 is the inconsistent Z calibration and ABL repeatability at startup. From other posts I find, this is a common complaint. I suspect there could a few contributing factors. The first being heat soak stabilizing thermal growth can take an hour if you have the patience. Second being the XYZ home sequence happens automatically before ABL. Once everything is up to temperature, ABL needs completed again and then Z re-home should be the last step. Thinking about adding that at the end of the ABL sequence. Any thoughts?

"Lets GET RIGHT INTO THIS VIDEO" this is cringe man :P but your content is great.

i do also want to add, that there is alot of headway getting done making the 2.4 into a toolchanging machine using tap.

Do note: The 350mm model is the version worth getting (for its price point) vs other printers on the market.
When I built mine I got the 350 model, and its quite the monster of a printer.
The Tridents do not have a 350mm version, and is why they are cheaper since their max size is 300mm.

Let's say you could get a Voron Trident / 2.4 already built and calibrated for the same price of a X1C, what would you get and why?

Did Canbus and Tap on mine, best mods ever. Canbus was a pain to flash months ago, but gotten way easier. Helped build some for a shop and the cable chains started to shred wiring after around 2500 hours of printing, so the slimmed down umbilical was a huge must for high demand printing.

“Can’t go wrong with either the 2.4 or trident” is a bit of a stretch in my opinion. 2.4 definitely takes more skill to assemble and get right. Not to mention the 4 belts for z which is alot more annoying to maintenance

So, should you still build a Voron?? This is just a commercial. No price/performance compare to anything....

I have one in my dreams, maybe one day

never understood the need to get a serial

I built a voron legacy 6months ago and I am very happy with it. It is my go to printer where I send the print and forget about it. I do have 5 ender 3 printers and a hurakan but when I print on them I need to sit thru the first few layers and still keep checking regularly to make sure nothing goes wrong mid print. I am now building a bigger legacy with parts from a Ender 3 max because I have some special requirements from my customers where I need a 300x300x500 build volume

I don't think that the TAP will work on the Trident, only on the 2.x series because the bed isn't stable enough. So the V0.x, Trident, and Switchwire can only use the clicky probe, or an inductive probe for bed leveling.

I built an LDO 2.4 300 back in March and I have been pretty happy with it. I ordered a Trident kit a few days ago, and the ONLY reason I went with the Trident over the 2.4 was that I wanted to build a 250 this time, and AFAIK LDO only offers their 2.4 kit in 300 and 350.

The switching back and forth between the Voron manuals and the LDO docs is indeed a pain in the ass. I doubt if the Voron team is interested in adding tailored instructions for the various kits, and trying to keep up with changes in the kits. So it would be up to LDO to make a custom manual. It's probably not worth the cost increase it would take, given the kit's already relatively expensive.

I’ve been thinking about getting a Trident. The build doesn’t have me to worried but the software end definitely does. I’ve struggled with getting software to work on simpler printers and I believe most of my issues are do to my computer and lack of knowledge. Does someone offer a pre programmed for a Trident?

I wanted to build a 2.4 and then the bambu came out and I bit the bullet and got one just because I couldn't build a voron for what the bambu costs. The only thing I am missing is the build volume that you can get with a voron.

I like my 2.4 RevC kit but I did have to replace the included drive gears for the extruder because the ones they shipped me were out of round and led to filament pulsing (CnC Kitchen did a great video about this a while back). I also had to spend a lot of time getting belt tension set correctly to deal with some layer shifting and consistency issues. But since then, I've typically been running it as fast as necessary to maintain the max flow rate of the revo nozzle. The machine can definitely move faster though, and I think the next step will be adding a higher flow hot end of some sort. But overall it has been a great investment and I've enjoyed the challenge of getting it to 100%.

I've been looking at the trident for a while, but I've recently ran into "The 100" project which is a full 500usd Core XY build with similar performance to the vorons, but I've pulled both into CAD and im going to try and marry them together since The 100 replaces all aluminum extrusion with either 3d printed parts or makes the kinematics a part of the structure. Like the linear rails, rods and lead screws.

Would highly recommend build the decontaminator mod (and find a small brass brush to fit it) and have a small routine for cleaning the nozzle, it's been really helpful in keeping the nozzle clean!
Can definitely recommend TAP as well. :)
Personally, I've been really happy with my 2.4 rev.c kit from LDO. Works great, prints amazing and looks cool :D

For anyone who doesn't have the budget for an LDO but still want the quality that comes with researching community mods to apply by default to a kit, I'd personally recommend Magicphoenix' CBT kit (CanBUS + TAP). It manages to simultaneously be among the cheapest kits and, in my opinion, include the best the community has to offer. Genuine BigTreeTech CAN boards for the toolhead, a Manta M8P with their in-house clone of the CM4, TAP and Nevermore configured by default, with options for Disco sticks, CNC parts, printed parts (functional/decorative), Phaetus hotends, genuine Gates belts and stainless steel rails.

I took a gamble ordering from them and, while they ship from China, I also had no customs to pay for it here in Belgium, since it first arrives to Poland before being dispatched to the home address.

Overall not only is the printer fantastic (but that's a given at this point), but the price paid for the quality that came out is outstanding. Can't recommend them enough, they even hang around in the Voron Discord if you have any question.

i built both but sold em and now i use a Bambu

Where did you find the LED PCB at?

Cereal wen? 😉
Also, those chains on Trident are flipped 🤣

I built a Voron 2.4R2 350mm from a kit. It was fairly expensive compared to my other printers and the kit quality was not as good as it could have been. My recommendation is to go with the very best kit you can find. I thought I had, but I really should have done a little more research - it would have saved time and money. The biggest issue now is the bed quality. The bed is just not as flat as it should be which is essential to getting consistent prints. Spend a lot on the bed quality because if you have to replace it later it will also mean replacing the heating pad! All of that said, when I push print and it's tuned-in, I can't stop looking at it! It's almost magical. It's a really beautiful printer in form and function. I use this machine for large prints and for ABS and ASA as it has an enclosure. And I built it - go figure!

But it does take some passion to want to build a 2.4r2 350...

I also love my 2.4 350 workhorse..
I found my upgrade to beacon a super choice.
Also a bit pricy with transport and customs I'd advise you to do it asap.
Thx for your good work

Has ratrig fallen out of favour

Can you go into more details about the trident and maybe compare them? Mostly interested in how different the build was.

I've been debating between building a voron or getting a vivedino troodon. Now Phrozen appears to be making a voron clone too.

Love my 2.4 from I got it at RMRRF aka I won it, and man its been great once I got the kinks worked out it's my one printer where I start a print and don't worry about it. the Print quality is awesome. Mine has tap love that its made the bed level and gantry level easy.

OMG... I love my siboor V2.4 Rev C. Running it since April has been such a blast, yes I have gone from stock to modded, mainly printed parts. I have upgraded to BFIdlers, the GE5C mod, and three different version of Tap. I found I prefer the Dodo3dlab Voron CNC Tap over the Chaotic Tap. Also using the BTT Pi V1.2 with a Spider v2.3 and working flawlessly. I would however love to have a better method of belt tension as there is no mic the same to pick up proper sounds from a phone. This is the one downfall of belted printers. My V.0 also from Siboor was an example of perfect All white frames and white printed parts. Only prints PLA so I am not running a Nevermore, but it does get quite warm lol. My trident is on the way, and my X1C is a great unit but I feel I love the voron line of printers far more, but My Ender 5 pro will always be my true love.... total workhorse

Gone the 2.4 way last summer 300 LDO RevC as well.
All is fine except Klicky in heat soaked chamber (works way better at room temp)
During QGL, I randomly get one inconsistent reading (off the others by more than .1mm) exceeding the tolerance and triggering a new set of measurements, sometimes several times in a row, and (rarely) the QGL fails due to too many errors.
I reduced the Z probing speed to 5mm/s but still have the problem (again, this mostly happens after I heat soaked for ABS / ASA)
I'm using the microswitch that comes with the Klicky addon bag included with the RevC LDO kit.
I'm curious about yours, seems different from the stock LDO.
Did you change it? what's your experience? what's the reference of this microswitch? (or is it KlickyNG?)
Many thanks ;)

Wow! You answered a question I didn’t know I had! Thank you for explaining the difference between the trident and the 2.4. I’ve been looking to build a Voron for along time but I don’t have a community of makers near me, that critical fact that one has the flying gantry is huge! I love your work and wish you great success

From what I've heard between Trident vs 2.4
250mm - trident
300mm - flip a coin
350mm - 2.4

I don't even think LDO makes a 250mm 2.4 or 350mm Trident kit

You SHOULDN'T, you should buy a LDO Voron Trident instead. That gantry alone is a hell of a headache to calibrate and the reason why Trident prints are better.

Trident is way more noob friendly, better printing quality, it just works.

I have LDO Voron Trident 300mm and I'm building a LDO Voron V0.2 S1 kit.

i have only the 2.3 and a mercury wich is closer to a trident and even if the 2.4 is a very great challenge it might not be the best voron to vhoose if you want a quick assembly work but for hobby it's the best printer i ever own great video to modbot keep going :)

With Bambu lab x1 people will get much better quality, speed and features then outdated overpriced voron with heavy printhead and less features.


1x 2.4 350 kit with good quality components will cost like 2x bambu lab p1p.

Actually deciding between a Voron 2.4 and a Voron trident, I always would prefer the Trident. While moving the gantry instead of the heavy bed esp. on bigger sizes seems more intuitive, this can become a problem on further modifications, like adding a toolchanger. If you want an automatic toolswitch to be added, a 2.4 has to move up the gantry for every toolchange or you need a syncroniced z-movement for your toolbay. Seems much more complicated than adding a toolchanger on a Trident.
However, belt driven z to eliminate any z-wobble definitly is a good idea. But it should be possible to use this techniqe on a Trident.
However, as I am interested in a bigger printer with at least 500by500mm² bed (I am into retro computing and want to print keyboard cases and cases for old Commodore Amigas). So the only printer kit I consider at the moment is the RatRig VCore 3.1 at the moment, which is quite simular to a Trident, but available up to 500by500mm².
So I would be realy interested in a comparision between 2.4, Trident and VCore 3.1.

One point bothering me on bigger sizes however is the belt length for CoreXY and the problem CoreXY always being staticly overconstrained, wich can result in blocking and layershifts with bigger designs and heated chambers due to different thermal expansion of materials. I was always fascinated by Ultimakers CrossingRods design. The K4-design using crossing linear rods definitly is an aproach worth a deeper look into.

Over all, the Trident or the VCore 3.1 design seems more interesting if you want to experiment with different kinematics. As the XY-kinematic does not move, you could use a seperate frame for the XY-kinematic and mount it on the top - spliting the printer into two parts, the bottom with the electronics and the z-axis with bed and the x/y unit, wich you can swap between classic coreXY, CrossingRods, CrossingRails or maybe even DoubleCrossingRods - or everything you might want to experiment with. Of course, if you want to go even bigger, you might even go further in dividing the printer into more seperate parts - like seperate units for base (with the electronics) left and right frames (one with one z-holder/movement unit, the other with two), backframe (maybe with a tool-holder for automatic toolchanger) and a top frame with the gantry. All frames stiffened with solid panels, and connected by thumscrews. So you can dissassemble it, bring it through the doors of a normal home, and assemble it quickly in an other room or in a cabinet...

In my opinion a bed dropper is better for timlaps

As someone who owned a v2.4 and a trident, go for the trident, especially if you are considering 250 and 300mm build sizes. This has two to three reasons: build is much easier (no z belt tension, no z drive assembly, no z belt clips), less expensive (one less stepper, one less driver, one less rail), maintenance free z axis when using pom nuts and requires less printed parts. Second reason is build height. That one might confuse as the trident has always 250mm height while the 2.4 ranges from 250 to 350mm. Reality is different. On a 2.4 you roughly miss 40 to 50mm in z when the top panel is installed because otherwise you would absolutely bend the reverse bowden. The reason behind that is that the original frame was built around being bowden extruder, wo you didn't need the extra top space. I personally would even go so far that you miss 50 to 70mm depending how mucb you want to bend the ptfe tube and how stiff the filament is. Meaning a 250mm built trident has more height than a v2.4, a 300mm is equal (ldo trident is actually 300mm in z making it the tallest voron), so only the 350mm spec v2.4 is taller than 300mm. Third reason is speed, a trident can be more easily reinforced on the frame, which is extremely difficult on a 2.4 due to the arrangement of the z belts and belt tensioners. But even without reinforcements a trident performs better, i rebuilt my 2.4 for various reasons to a trident and got a huge recommended acceleration increase, from 7,5k to 8,5k on a 350mm spec (mantis toolhead, cnc x axis), 13% increase. I would rule out different belt tension as it was tuned the same and the graph looked pretty similar. As reason i would suspect the more rigid frame and that the gantry isn't suspened by 4 printed parts.

Personally i dont see a reason to pick a 2.4 in a 250 or 300mm size, the 350mm one makes sense if you nees the taller build space. Otherwise i don't see any reason besides cool factor to pick a 2.4 over a trident

I've been considering Troodon 2.0 which is a derivation of Voron 2.4r2 :/ Just can't spend the time to build this printer until i have spent the time to build RatRig V-Core 3.1

OR since voron made the guide and the kit is OFF that, ldo can remake those pages and put together their own guide.

so now modbot needs a Legacy so he has them all

I started with the Trident, and am in the process of building a v2.4. I feel they both have their niches they fill. For an all-around workhorse, the Trident does a splendid job, especially when you factor in that LDO's 300 kit is a 300 CUBE design, so has another 50mm of build height to work with (stock design only has 250mm of build height, 300 cube has 300mm), which significantly reduces the need to go with a 350mm v2.4 if you need that height.

I won't lie, the v2.4 is a sexier looking kit, and the flying gantry is gorgeous, but if the LDO 300 cube kit had been available when I was originally building the Trident, I would have just gone that route (I built mine back when LDO was still beta testing their Rev A kits for the v2.4). Wound up building a v2.4 alongside the Trident because it offers a nice niche that my Trident doesn't fill - larger schtuff, since it's a 350mm build, and will probably have around 315mm of usable height (kinematic bed mount removes some of the stock 330mm build height).

Editing to add: One of the reasons why the v2 has so many more serials is far too many people assumed that v2 was newer than v1.8, which is why the Trident is named, instead of being v1.9. It's also been around a lot longer, but there's been pretty decent growth on the Trident serials after a few months of it launching.

what about a video about sovol 6 upgrades?

Before I started building my LDO V2.4, I added notes in the Voron pdf manual with all the LDO deviation/extras. That way I could just follow the manual without having to jump back and forth.

Totally agree on integrating/redlining the LDO mods into the assembly instructions. It’s been the biggest annoyance/trouble with a team build of a 2.4 B/C at my makerspace. The kit came with a Afterburner instead of a Stealthburner extruder and making sure we printed the right parts to finish it was a headache. We’re in the home stretch, we hope to finish it after the holidays.

P.S. we have a pre-assembled Trident we got from a maker who builds them for “fun”—that works too!

Personally it's hard to convince me that a stock voron of any kind is the way to go these days. You can get such better performance from a few mods. The voron toolheads in particular are a non-starter.

We have 9mm mods, monolith, XOL, archetype, doom, etc. All of which are going to get. Even not going umbillical in 2023 is absolutely wild to me.

The V2 is a really cool printer that is the baseline for a lot of what the DIY community is doing today. But it's also a 4 year old design in an ever-changing landscape. I encourage any new builder to not limit themselves to that 4 year old design.

RE: Trident vs 2.4. Trident is going to be vastly less finicky to build with the lead screw z and rigid gantry.

Congrats buddy. I LOVE my 2.4, it's literally my favorite printer by a huge margin. Enjoy.