New concept in Cyano control: How to BEAT red cyanobacteria slime algae

Just what I’m looking for 😎

so apparently VIBRANT is a algicide 😮 🤦🏻‍♂️ and you stop sell it ?
UWC 💩

I have low nitrate and phosphate and have had a big cyano outbreak.

Is it just me or do you guys not carry Vibrant anymore?

Cyano hurt my corals So i decided to dose chemiclean it worked but now how can I heal my coral

for cyno- does lowering white lights help like leaving on for just 5 hours ? if so can i leave whites on or 5 then blue fpr an extra hour - total light time 6 hurs ? I have no corals. thank you!

i noticed this after introducing a bio media filter into the sump

I nuked those cyano in my tank with chemiclean. Went away in a couple of days lol

Dosing vibrant for cyano? I’m dealing with cyano after dosing vibrant

I was always wondering, why elevated nitrate was thought to benefit cyanos. From my understanding it should actually be the opposite because the mega special ability of cyanoes is nitrogen fixation, meaning they don't really need ionic nitrogen species but can get their nitrogen from dissolved air. So in low nitrate scenarios they should do better than nitrate users. This is just an unproven hypothesis, other things migth play a role here, but that's what I was always wondering about.

Not sure what happened but I used chemiclean a couple of times recently (with lots of water changes in between) and it almost nuked my entire tank both times. Thought it was a fluke the first time when I lost a fish I'd had for 10+ yrs and my SPS started necrotizing, used it again because the slime was back and it killed my second 10 yr old fish and a fire red shrimp . I've used this stuff in the past with zero issue. No idea what happened but I'm devastated

I have cyano in freshwater!!

Absolutely love these videos , always keeping people in the hobby , thanks 👌🏻

OK, maybe I'm late to the game...but where did you get that siphon that has a shut off button??

Cyanos are awesome when you’re using it to outcompete Dino’s.

The bane of my reef keeping existence. It pops up now and then in my probiotic reef tank. Kills SPS too… 😆 more and i mean MORE flow and a bacterial cocktail over 5-6 days does the trick. Oh and heaps of filter floss to cap it all.

Had great success with Brightwell Razor systemic cleaner. Don’t ask me how it works but it got rid of red algae, hair algae, string algae with no negative effects. I did a general tidy and 20% water change before dosing recommended volume.
I’ve been adding most days after the recommended treatment.

I have blue leg hermits and trochus snails and I still have alage and cyano. Aren’t they supposed to eat algae? And if I treat for algae and eliminate it, aren’t I starving the snails and crabs?

My cyano is caused by vibrant, Vibrant = cyano

Although products like microbacter7 and vibrant can be used to out compete cyano, if the reason you have cyano in the first place is due to low nutrients, then what?
Those products contain denitrifying bacteria that aids in processing ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, thus lowering the nutrients available in your system that are already at 0.

Cyanobacteria is growing like crazy in my refugium ?
Is it problem as these cyanobacteria are consuming my nitrate phosphate at very fast rate with chaetto ?

My tank is 2 moths old
1 month ago my nitrate was 20 ppm
Now it is around 10 ppm
Can I harvest cyanobacteria just like chaeto or algae turf scrubbber ?

my 10g clownfish reef never had any issues and it's been 2 weeks since my 120g reef setup has been running with ambient lights only i'll do that for a few months atleast until 1-2 months of good ats harvesting once the ats is purchased and arrived.
there is one bothersome thing about my 10g tank tho the rocks are brown they were white but all the spots where the little led in the canopy hit is brown. i assume that is just due to the light it isn't slimy it's big at all it's just like coralline sized like 1-2mm tall but not purple and it is soft not coralline texture.
point being, maybe i should dose these hetro bacterial products in my 120g setup have you guys ever tried that just dose the good bacteria occasionally for cyno,dino,algae, photosynthetic bacteria even when there aren't any issues just purely to keep up with a diverse ecosystem that isn't able to reproduce in the tank itself but helps solve issues. doesn't have to be dosed at the recommended stated maybe even as low as 25% of the recommended dose monthly.
or would the dosing be too harmful in the long run?

When I started reefing a few years ago, noone knew HOW to get rid of this stuff. Good to see the mystery is finally solved.

Also I diss try ChemiClean for cyano. I followed instructions and it did seem to make it go away. However a few weeks later it came back. So perhaps I just need to do a few more repeat doses??

So I have 135g Red Sea tank. Several years old. Water params spot on, but lately been struggling with cyano just on the sand. I have excellent filtration, maintenace done on a regular basis. The only thing I can possibly pinpoint is feeding the tank 1 cube of frozen mysis 2x a day. In the past I only feels the tank nori for tangs and flake for smaller fish. My experience in the past is seeing cyano breakouts after using frozen product. I try to strain as much as possible to keep thawed water out of tank. Could the bacteria be coming from crappy bacteria water used to pack mysis. Is that worth a vlog for you guys..thoughts? Oh and the reason I’m feeding mysis is for lytlretail Anthias and royal gramma that do better with meaty food.

I can back your claim up. I had a very small cyano bloom on a frag plug and I have very low nutrients.

Agree with you nitrates 3 and phosphates 0.04 but still cyno came on sand bed 😱 not sure if reef feast (over feeding this ) didn’t help 🤷🏻‍♂️😀🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

vibrant reef cleaner. Kill snails

Is blue-green cyano the same?

The upper level reefer info they don’t want u to know. Cyano is no big deal. The treatments are.

I've used every treatment but in a couple of days after treatment it's back. Just cant get rid of it for good

So much great info in your guides!! If using microbactor won’t the skimmer just remove it?

Just get a few conches (Strombus alatus). They are great cyanobacteria vacuums

I do have <1ppm nitartes levels and both cyano and dinos appeared. It seems I need to increase my nutrients! It has worked in the past with dinos.

Wouldn't vacuuming the cyano off the sand go along way to getting rid of it - at least temporarily... while you look to other things to fix the problem?

My personal experience has been cyano when I've had a gross misbalance of no3/po4. Dosing no3/po4 appropriately resolved the cases I have personally experienced.

I'll give Ryan all the time he wants

Lol people strive for purple coraline but hate cyano. Go figure

I hear no mention of silicates in this video –nor any other BRS video I have seen. My understanding is that silicates are the most important growth-limiting compound for cyanobacteria. Tap water is often loaded with silicates –which are very difficult to filter out of tap water– and is the most important reason why a de-ionizer filter is used as the last stage in reverse osmosis systems. The appearance of slime algae in the fish tank may be indicative that the DI canister in the RO system is exhausted and needs replacing.
In my experience, high silicates –not phosphate or nitrate- is the cause of slime algae blooms.
Love your videos, still.

In my case, I didn’t have any Cyanobacteria at all until AFTER a few weeks of dosing Vibrant for the first time.
I’ve since read on forums that others have experienced this also..So with that known...it seems odd to me to suggest using Vibrant as a treatment for Cyano. Hmm..Interesting.

During the interview shots what size tank is to the left of the video? I have a 20 high with healthy yet slow sps growth. Its a little over 2 years old and I'm very happy with it. I have small, intermittent gha, red slime, and dino. It goes away commonly and I'm not too concerned. I do have vermitid snails that I absolutely hate. They are the one reason why I dont want to simple scale my 20 gal up to 40g or 60g. So I guess my question is this; can I safely scale my 20g to the size in the video(40-60g) if I cure the extra rock before hand in left over water from wcs? How do I decide whether to start all over or scale up the 20g that I have knowing the small problems I have in it? My goal is to scale up keeping alot of the same equipment I'm using now but giving more room for tangs. Main equipment I don't want to out grow; mp10, octo hob 1000, and 2 kessil 360s ( I would buy one more).

What about blackout method?
I am not sure about reef tanks but this worked for me in my planted tanks .
Also keep in mind that you can use erythromycin in powder. This old antibiotic kills cyanobacteria in a matter of few days.
For me the best procedure was mechanical removing (sand) , blackout 3 days, erythromicyn and increase NO3 (thats a must).

Diamond Goby will eat it all in a few days

I never had cyano, used vibrant and now it’s on my rocks . Non on the sand bed I’m pretty sure it’s eating the algae that’s dying off. I remove it , it comes back. My nitrates and phosphates are low so iv started using ati n p and c, i don’t want to dose chemicals but now it’s beginning to drive me insane. I’m not sure whether to just leave it and see if it dies out.

Absolutely correct statement. Have had outbreaks when my nitrates were like five parts per....

I just noticed a small patch (3”x3”) in my sump today on one of my marine pure blocks. My system is a little over a year old and I haven’t had cyano since the beginning month or two. The only thing that’s changed and I mean the only thing I’ve changed is that I dosed chaeto grow. Other than that nothing has changed for months. I test alk, po4, no3,weekly and they’ve been 8.4-8.5,.02-.03,~10 all the time. Do you think that the chaeto grow fueled this situation?