Lead rope solo method, as safe as it gets

Thank you very much for the video. The truth is that I don't understand the use of microtraxion very well. I know that you use the ASAP as a backup in case the gri gri fails (I use Revo and carabiner in ballestrinque knots), but what is the function of the microtraxion? Would it be like a third security element? a redundant third?

The Trango Vergo is a must have device for any system you use. The design allows you to attach it to a taught rope, so you can put it on the rope after a fall, above your main device,.so you can easily lower off a route, without having to go through 3 or 4 steps of unweighting the system to attach a rappel device.

What size rope are you using with the ASAP?

If a man has a cause he can stay up for days doing that.

ENGLISH TIP: Every time he says he's "using nuts" for this or that, he just means "knots". There are no nuts used in the making of this video. PS: Took me a while to figure out why they're using the art piece climbing wall to demonstrate. At first I thought it was because it was so cool; then I realized: Holland is flat as a pancake. All of it, apparently.

i want to try this but i havent bought my grigri yet and i was wondering what is better between a grigri and a grigri+ ?

amateur question perhaps; what does an asap do that a prusik knot doesn't?

The ASAP was designed to catch a fall by itself,which means you could top rope solo with your ASAP. - an ASAP lock owner

Wow, great insights, i.e. content! Subscribed! I noticed you are using the older GriGri, maybe first version of it... Would you specifically recommend that device, or would the newer GriGri+ or GriGri3 make a difference because of the lower spring-tension? Have seen some videos on rope-solo with the "old" one only now. THANX!

Hi, I've been climbing with this set up and it has been awesome! My only issue is that cache loop would sometimes loop under my leg or my foot. Have you figured out a way to keep it off the leg?

Hi Amir! I must say that this video was published a year ago and Gerke Hoekstra used this for more time. You got something there. A new system was born! I have experience with the original ASAP (a rather bad experience, I don't recommend it. You recognize it from a big black plastic part.). But recently tested the new ASAP. If you stay with ropes above 9.5mm and fall factors at a maximum of 1 it should all be allright. I recommend you add the fall factor recommendation. The ASAP system is probably not for multi-pitch (except if doing a bomber plus-clip / clipping the first protection of the next pitch before you clean the current pitch). Note that I have not experimented much with it yet. But plan to! Does it all make sense?

if you have a full strength gear loop on the back of your harness clip between that and the main belay loop = bomber

Great video thank you! Couple questions:
1. Is a 9.9mm rope fine for rope solo?
2. What product is the weak link, is it a rubber band or something?

Is he utilizing 11mm rope when lead rope soloing? Just wondering with that being the recommendation for the Petzl ASAP.

I do not trust someone who doesn't use the helmet sorry

I'm not a rock climber but I am a cell tower climber and certified rigger. The equipment and techniques shown in the video are essentially exactly the same as what is covered in the tower climbing certification course. Rock climbing is literally as foreign to me as the bottom of the sea is to a cloud, but it is cool watching this video and seeing the same equipment I use every day. I have the utmost respect for anyone that rock climbs regardless of what type or style of climbing you do. It takes a special type of person to do one of the most physically demanding and all-around toughest things any person can do just for the fun and adventure of it.

Nice systems, and very clear, well-presented video. Just to point out (Whittaker method): you could secure the micro-traxion to your belay loop, pre-tie backup knots in the spare rope behind the trax as blockers in case the belay device fails, then untie them as you climb. Overhands or slip knots can be untied one-handed. No need for an ASAP and less faff than multiple pre-tied cache loops this way. The knots+trax will save you even if the belay device totally fails.

I'm new to the community and this question might seem obvious, but, how do you retrieve the rope from the top anchor once at the bottom?

I'd rather do this than trust those creepy auto belay devices 😁

Damn, I really need to visit Spaarnwoude at some point before leaving the netherlands it looks like a fun place. Most of the time I go to Monte Cervino in Rotterdam, great place as well. I have seen some guys doing some rope solo there as well.

Think this will work better with a mammut smart.? They lock fast and in any direction

Hi, maybe I missed it but what rope diameter do you guys use? The ASAP is rated 10mm and above only. If you use thinner, have you tested it? Curious as I'm interested in your system but only have 9.4mm max in dynamic ropes.

really awesome video, very well explained.. also the channel is just crazy nice, full with information and a real charismatic person who delivers, presents his knowledge with certainty and humor.
thank you therefore (is that right, my grammar and vocabulary is not the best, sry)?
keep up the mindboggling nice work and stay safe as always!
keep "rock"ing 😜😅

Why not use an ID instead of the GRIGRI? ID is meant to hang on.

Couldnt you just tie your base to a tree or any secure object on the ground?

Great video Amir, thank you for all you have showed us!!!

Just wondering what diameter rope he uses, as the ASAP being better with rope close to 11mm, while I could imagine the GriGri would seize up easier at its max at around 10mm?

Seems like 2nd method is not for hard rope solo;
for me I used Grigri only, but when harder move I had to use teeth to get more rope for putting quickdraw and rope in, then let go, relax and continue.
great video, think I go for ASAP/lov2 taz & grigri technique

ASAP Rock for dynamic rope
9.6? It's written that it's
designed for 10-13mm
diameter rope.
Is a problem if
rope is 9.6?
What about the
rope type (dynamic instead of
static)?

People in industry have rope solod forever, it's perfectly safe with the right equipment and knowledge! Thanks for sharing!

As safe as it gets = quite dangerous

steel doesnt work equally in all directions, it can withstand more force in a normal load instead of being loaded a shear force so the maillon you use isnt that useful and will break with a fall when cross loaded if the rating for shear strength is below the force it receives when catching the fall.

I hope you inform yourself much better when informing in such a risky topic

as a professionel I trust the asap as a stand alone since you have to use it as intended with the asap sorber .. witch petzl claims will absorb the impact on rope in case of fall .. i climb / robe with heavy equipment and is not scared about only having my asap.

Not sure I like either methods. Both feature dangling rope by your right thigh. Easy to step your left leg into the loop and get yourself all tangled up. Clipping is easier with right hand but it looks more awkward with left hand. What if the amount of Slack you pull through the Gri Gri and ASAP is too much, you can't easily reverse the slack. It has to be quite accurate.
On trad routes, you have to find a good anchor that is good for upward pulling force. It's not always available. With ASAP, Minitraxion or lots of knotted loops on the right hand side of your harness, it takes up your raking capacity for other trad gear. On a bolted route, it's alright.
Then, you've got multipitch problem. You have to come down the pitch with another rope to clean the pitch. Then climb back up the rope. In all that time wasted in doing a couple of pitches, you can find a climbing partner!
All look a bit of a faff.
Why not go Alex Honold style? Very cheap. Rock boots and chalk bag and a nice shirt!

Good, thanks bro

The purpose of the ASAP seems quite odd. I noticed in another comment you said that it is the third barrier in case of a fall.
1) Gri Gri (GG) should hold.
2) If GG slips, ASAP gives enough friction to activate the Gri Gri
3) If GG fails entirely, you'll hang on the ASAP.

I guess my question is this. What are the failure modes of the GG? It seems like you'll only end up hanging on the ASAP if the GG literally explodes into pieces. Otherwise the ASAP will run into the GG, and the GG may prevent the ASAP from working entirely.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but to me, in place of the ASAP, one should use any device that adds friction to the system, just to activate the GG incase the GG is slipping. But one should still be able to trust the GG from completely exploding. I've never used one, but I wonder if the Edelrid Ohm could work in place of the ASAP? Alternatively (and I say this from the comfort of my armchair w/o yet testing it), using a clove hitch that you adjust down the rope or a prussik that is 'generally loose' but would tighten up incase of a fall.

I guess I'm just looking for a device that could add friction when needed, but still rely on the Gri Gri and the fact that it'll never "Completely fail". It'll only slip in some scenarios. Other ideas to add friction are the Kong Backup or the Camp Lift.

Thoughts?

great video.

Your use of the asap is completely pointless as it’s placed below the belay device … thus it can be forced down the rope in the event of a failing gri gri .

I just use a wild country revo for leading. At top I swap to gri gri for an down and reclimb on top rope. Really simple and easy

You just don’t

take a chairlift , you are not a climber

Who named that thing GRI GRI?

You can always master good rope technique from the ground!

One crucial detail you left out is in case of a head down fall the grigri WILL NOT LOCK(!) making that third han that much more important, and the chest harness made out of sling should never cross your neck.

I use the asap in work (im a level 3 irara technician) you shouldnt use it like that at all, they are supposed to be use with a shock absorber, if you were to take a nasty fall onto the asap it would strip the rope