Rolleiflex T twin lens reflex camera walkthrough with essential buying tips.

Hi Jonathan, i assume your prices for an overhaul are quite optimistic more suitable for a simple CLA. For a complete overhaul (no parts changing, but regreasing, adjustment of shutterspeeds etc. ) at a rollei certified shop (which unfortunately are quite rare to find) you will go more to the area of nearly 400€, which make it sometimes a hard decision to let the job done. Regarding the used greases in the past there were sometimes used unappropriate greases, and the modern greases will last much longer. An optically Mint Rollei without a Revision in the last few years has always to include a discount for necessary overhaul (calculate at least 300€). And a Recipe from a revision in the eighties is just documentation, but the overhaul is long overdue.

Don't forget the sports finder on the hood (just press in the front door like for the magnifier till it clicks). this was my first pro camera, bought in 1969 - kinda wish I hadn't sold it to buy a Rollei 2.8F. With the shutter/f stop interlock makes this a dream for using fill in flash. Ps: If you can clean and service a compur shutter you can open the camera with 4 screws and the flash terminal barrel nut. My first cleaning after a "professional repair " after a took me about 1/2 hour. Correcting the lens plate that he had loosened took 2 weeks to get it parallel to the lens plane and focused to infinity. In short A GREAT CAMERA.

Hi. Great video, thank you! I have a 3.5F. I'm looking for a self-timer attachment. Can you recommend one?

Great overview. I’m about to go look at one of these to buy and I feel much more confident going into it now. Thank you!

Hey Jonathan, nice video. I recently purchased the same exact "T" model as you have in your video. My camera is remarkably clean. It looks almost new. The glass is clean and clear. The aperture works. I put a roll of "test" film into the camera and it winds properly. The issue is the shutter. At first I was "exercising" the shutter at every speed to get the camera moving again. Then suddenly, the shutter doesn't fire. It will fire if tripped by the self-timer, but not with the shutter button. I even tried a cable release and the shutter still won't fire. Once in a while, when I trip the shutter with the self-timer, I can see that the shutter blades remain partially open. That would ruin any image if I was taking a photo. I don't know if there is a problem with the camera or if I am just using it incorrectly. It's frustrating. Steve

Fantastic review

Hi Jonathan - nice little rundown - I used a T for 25 years almost exclusively. 
What you can do when you lift the screen is add the masks for the 16-on kit. Along with the mask that fits over the film gate you turn the camera into a 16 frame 645 camera, the gate mask adjusts the counter automatically. 
I would also say that T's can be prone to flare - hoods are essential. 
And if the bands indicating the f-stop and speed break (they're rubber apparently) then you cannot replace them. The transport on the T's is also not built to the same robustness as the 'professional' Rolleis so can be quite squeaky wheel if you know what I mean.
Oh and it is also easy enough to remove the back to check the lens - there's a latch at the top.

The Tessar is optimised for f11, but they'll still take very beautiful pictures at most apertures.
And that's about that - keep up the great videos!

I've been eyeing a Rolleiflex/Rolleicord for awhile now. However, recently I've acquired a Minolta Autocord. Of course it doesn't have the build quality of the Rolleis but the lens is amazingly sharp and it's such a pleasure to use. At least until I work up to a Rollei!

Bailey swore & scored by the Rolleiflex.