9 3D Printing Sins...

I'd like to add one important aspect that gets neglected often, mostly in private use. Since no private person is forced to do a risk assesment the material choice of the filament needs to considered carefully due to hazardous properties. As I do this stuff at work I cannot understand why on earth anyone without a proper ventilation and filtersystem (just opening a window is not suffcient) would want to print ABS/ASA/Vinyl/HIPS/PPS. ABS/ASA contains styrol which lowers fertility and comes with high regulation at workplace use. It also gets metabolised fast into other toxic substanced in your body after skin contact or respiration. Vinyl straight up releases formaldehyde into the air. So please check the safe datasheet of any filament you want to use and see which chemicals are in there, at what tempreture do they react/disolve and what do they do.

Wish i had known the "Wrong material for outdoor use" sooner.
I once printed a phone adapter for my car - and it worked flawlessly. At least until summer hit and i had to leave my car in the most exposed sunny spot on earth. It was.. a mess.

The biggest mistake is not learning CAD or sculpting! Theres a lot of designs that aren't quite what i want out there, I'm not sure having a printer would be worth it if I couldn't do my own models.

When I first learned about orientation I thought the guy who showed us must hve been a super genuis! For removing prints that don't want to go, if the putty knife doesn't work, the best tool is an ultra thin artist pallete knife. I love using glue stick, it works pretty much every time. If I need to clean I wipe with IPA, I don have a removable bed. IMHO auto level isn't really worth it unless you have spare cash, you can save a lot just by not going for autolevel.

My black PLA weather vane survived the summer, but it was painted and urethaned, maybe that helped hold its shape?

I still use isopropyl alcohol for the ease of it and I haven’t had build plate adhesion problems. My printers are in the basement and I don’t want to regularly bring my plates upstairs to be cleaned so I just buy isopropyl alcohol wipes and they haven’t failed me.

No clue why i watched this when all but the number of walls tip is fairly basic

I don't have to take the buildplate to the IPA, I can take the IPA to the buildplate :) Less risk of breaking the glass too by frequently carrying it around.

what software where you using in the video

Another thing you must never do with your fdm printer is turning it off too soon. The mistake I made in the begining. If you turn it off, when hotend is still hot, your cooling fan turns off and filament starts melting, where it should not be melted, and when you turn on the next time, your hotend is completely stuck. (sorry if my english is not good)

My 3d printer came with a auto bed leveling kit but for whatever reason my slicers profile for that printer didnt tell my printer to use the damn mesh. It took me WEEKS to find out why the leveling was so bad

This videio feels so wrong lamo

One shot for each time he says "warm soapy water"

just saying, you background music sounds like the windows disconnected device sounds in a loop, very annoying

Just now unboxed my new Bambu P1S. It's currently printing off the scraper tool as it's first print thanks to your advice! Great video!

Disagree on two points
1. Do adjust slicer settings. Why not? It's your print.
2. Such a sinful image of the spatula with sharp edges! If you've used them and damaged your bed, grind the corners off. I've ruined 4 beds. Then I ground the corner of mine. Never damage a bed since.

I bought a $400 printer on 50% sale and it has the auto-leveling. Blessed be gods that guided me towards bying it.

(gods: PSR; printer: Sovol sv06 bought on aliexpress)

The benefit of using IPA is not having to move my glass bed all the way to the bathroom and bump the corners against the sink when washing it

Wonderful video, straight to the point with solid tips.

What is with the music changes every 5 secs? Lmao

PEI is da bomb. Also a dial gage will take all the guess work out of bed leveling.

Clean the bed with alcohool every 3 prints for peak adesion

Maybe it's just me but the amount of times the background music switched was exhausting.

The isopropyl alcohol is for removing the leftover plastic from when you peel your builds off.

Isopropil leave white stain when i clean my ender 3 surface... its just to strong... maybe for glass...

definitely don't recommend falling back on ABL too terribly much. there's no substitute for having a squared bed and your z axis leadscrew will thank me when it's not dithering up and down to correct for your less than perpendicular bed.

"There's really no benefit to using IPA over warm soapy water"

Sure there is, I can leave the build plate in place and give it a quick IPA wipe. 5 seconds vs. minutes to pull, rinse, soap, wash, dry, and replace. If you're not using a glue stick, anyway. But then if you're using a glue stick regularly, IMO that's a bit of a band-aid covering up some other deficiency.

You know this is NOT a good video when he says glue stick FOR bed adhesion….. glue stick is to help RELEASE prints….

To get under parts that don't want to let go of the build plate, I usually use "paint knives". (set of them is usually less than ten bucks online)
Unlike these normal spatulas they don't have fully sharp edges, are thinner and therefore pose less of a damage risk to the parts and can work themself into thinner gaps.

PLA is perfectly fine for outdoor use for 99% of people. Yes, it is not "UV stable" but do you really need it to survive looking the same for 10 years? Colours are a different story, even some ASA materials use colours that are not UV stable and will bleach or yellow when exposed to sunlight, and you can also get PLA with colours that survive the sunlight.
PETG will also (usually) yellow in sunlight.
Unless you are printing engineering/function parts for outdoors and selling them, PLA will most likely work just fine.

Sin No. 10 - Buying Ender 3. Seriously, don´t. :D Ender was my first 3D printer and it was nothing but pain. I even went to the extent of upgrading almost everything. From motherboard to the extruder, dual Z-axis, everything. No. It simply wouldn´t print properly. Throwing it out and buying a different printer did the trick.

I do use isopropyl alcohol but i do not always use glue. I use glue with the harder parts that are too small or prone to warping and then i need soap to wash ofd the glue. In other cases i will just give it a quick wipe of IPA between prints and wash it with soap after a couple of prints.

IPA is a good choice to clean the bed before/after each print to remove reside... at least for PEI coated (flat or textured) surfaces. It's not a replacement for a soapy water rinse. That's still necessary every once in a while for the reasons mentioned in the video, but is everyone else really washing their build plate for each print?

I use Dawn to clean my build plate.

I just recently got into 3D printing. The issue I'm having is the printed product is hard or not able to break away from the Raft. I have a FlashForge Adventure 3 and using Flashforge PLA Filament 1.75mm. The Original Filament that came with the unit was a red translucent material. When I ran out of that, I took the filament information off the original spool and ordered Flashforge PLA Filament 1.75mm, 3D Printer Filaments 0.5kg Spool-Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm for Adventurer 3 Series (Black) and a (Grey) off Amazon. Whether I use, the (Black or Grey) the printed product does not want to separate from the Raft. I have not adjusted any of my printer from the factory default settings. Just wondering what causes it to adhere to the Raft. The Raft comes off the Build Plate just fine.

Thank god that the Ender 3 v3 se exists

I need to pick my printer apart and clean it. It's been collecting dust and grease for 10+ years now and just isn't very happy any more. I still think it's impressive that it has worked flawlessly for about 10 years before giving in to the environment. The kitchen really isn't the kindest environment either.

Really let that 'warm soapy water' footage work for you here.

Tip to release a print; Just take off the plate as a whole and put it on something cold, like a tile floor, or even hold it under cold water. The print will release mostly by itself...

Aqua net I found to be better then a glue stick and can be found in most discounts stores like Dollar General.

i lvl the bed with a mag base dial indicator.

Cool and useful!

"Don't use fingers on the build plate", let me tell you something, when I use PETG my on my ender 3 I literally have to put screwdriver between print and printing plate and tap it with a hammer. This shit sticks so hard to the build plate that I had 2 regular ones destroyed by print coming off with pieces of build plate. I even bought a glass one thinking that there is no way that it will get destroyed, fast forward 2 months and I have 2 holes in glass because my prints decided to get peeld off with fucking glass build plate, let me repeat that, I had instances where pieces off glass build plate where still stuck to the print after peeling it of. Nice advice but for someone not printing heavy duty parts

So the Bambu comes with Ludicrous speed - does it go plaid?

IPA is for quick cleaning and soapy water is when IPA doesn't do the trick. I rarely have to weash the build plates, usually IPA does the trick and I get good adhesion. I also have never had to use gluestick as adhesion or release agent. That's why you have different sheets.

I have these isopropyl alcohol wipes that I use to wipe down the build plate before each print. Much easier than taking it off to go to the bathroom to wash it off then dry it. It also cleans it just fine! I never have an issue.

would you recommend the bambulab x1 carbon, or the prusa mk4?

I gotta argue the IPA vs Soap and water. If you're a heavy smoker, soap really isn't going to do much against that film but IPA will cut right through it. THEN use soap and water.