Ultimate Engine Maintenance Guide: Triple Your Bike Engine's Lifespan

Awesome info!!! Tnx 🙌

Does it all applies to dirt bike ? Preheating and all … ?

Excellent video. My mechanic added some diesel to the oil before it is fully drained and kick started the engine a few times, followed by pressured air into the engine. But it was on a small honda CG 125 without oil filter. I was wondering how to have the same effect on a bike with oil filter.

I love riding motorcycles but i was never taught about how to take care of them. Thank you for this. Im watching all of your videos. One day i wanna have my own bike that i take good care of and hopefully have so much fun as you did. I really appreciate you.

if your taking your ride to a dealership for a oil change your a putz

Great video and something I've heard of or thought of before but didn't take it as seriously as I do now. I've idled it to get the temp up on the gauge or by feeling the engine but never necessarily rode it hard and fast. Maybe because it was winter and in the shop like you said or some other parts weren't installed like the wheel and it was up on the stand. Anyway, the only think I'm surprised you didn't do which I've seen a tribologist stress as important on another channel is to fill the new filter with new oil before installing. A little hard though with a horizontal filter orientation as it'd pour out again and some bikes like Husaberg or KTM you don't have this automotive style with the can around it. It's just pleated filter with no housing so you can't do that there as there's no housing to fill but this channel tested the time where the engine has no oil for a second or whatever if you don't fill the housing up first. Or some fraction of a second or maybe it was even a few seconds......I forget.

While what he is saying is true but the real way to not worry about these issues is to change your oil more often. Stop waiting till the recommended milage. Oil and filter is cheap insurance in keeping your bike functioning properly.

hi , to test metal partikels just pour oil in a plastic see thru cup and put a magnet to it

Pre soak the oil filter

Also clean the threads of the oilfilter with a cloth. there often are metal flakes on it from factory threating. you do not want that in your fresh maintained engine!
Thanks for the List!!! Very good Info, every Biker should know (or any driver in that case)

If you could recomend a new bike thats pretty bombproof and not so expensive what would you recomend?

Greetings from Iceland, thank you for a great video. To remove nuts or bolts.....Lefty loosely....righty tightly...that's how I learnt it 40 some years ago when I got my Aeronautical Engineers degree.

That has to be Aussie thing to change oil in sand and wind 🙂

If I try riding like you did for an oil change, I'll have no bike anymore and I'll end in hospital 😂😂😂

dang i just change my oil and i wonder why it's instantly black, now i know why. it's still 500 km of age and, kind of having the urge to do it myself correctly this time

Motorcycle are so easy to work on the owners should be doing it themselves…

That word you keep using. I do not think it means what you think it means 😂. Redundant means that it does the same thing as something else is already doing. I think you meant useless or moot. People still understood though. Still a good vid. Also, you don't need two-hand grip to tighten the filter. Most filters only need about 20 lb-ft

There is no way your filter is getting plugged enough that the bypass is needed unless something is grenading inside or you haven't changed your filter ever with heavy use. The bypass is for cold starts really. Have you ever cut open your filter? A little clutch debris but otherwise there shouldn't be a whole lot. If there is then it is time to get into the cases as something is seriously wrong.
And oil blackening though it can be from contamination, is generally caused by extreme swings heat cycles.
I have a KX500 that I use as a snowbike and the gearbox oil will go black after only a couple hours riding. The transmission works really hard spinning the track that fast and being constantly under load. Then when you stop in the cold snow it rapidly cools. Using the same bike in the dirt I can go 15 -20hrs before the oil starts to discolor.

Found this gem of a channel. I don't know much so I'm sure grateful i found this.

In 30 years of wreching there is just ONE engine that I changed cold without running it. New to me diesel lawnmower that I know had been poorly maintained. Fresh oil and did not change filter. Ran it with with that combo for an hour and got crude out of crankcase. Changed oil and filter and oil is still a nice amber color 100+ hours later.

there's one thing I hate about oil changes more than how much diesel oil stains the skin, & modern diesel are designed in a way that you simply cannot change it without getting covered in oil, especially from the plastic capped filter housings it's... actually I test drive all the cars before a service starts to help find faults & hear any funny noises. but these are cars that have to be tested on a public road... we can't drive them like that, and the oil is definitely warm, but not to the point of being a burn hazard, thank god.
At least with a bike you're not standing underneath it!
I always put an extension on the socket, keep my hands further away from the stream of oil. But some of those oil filters... just loosen and let it drip, deal with that later!

What if i swap 10w30 for 5w40 ? It has similar vicosity at operating temp but offers more protection at high temps and low temps better flow

Good advice to do it hot after a harder ride. I bought the 5-25Nm torque wrench for like 20$ and i am sure i don't overtighten both the drain and filter cover screws, that are 25Nm for drain and 5Nm for cover screws. I tend to overtighten everything because i had 250 Jawa that shaken everything off unless it was super tight.

not really, oil is getting black mostly because of heat cycles. If you have engine that dirty inside that your oil is black after first use good luck with you engine life LOL

I don't know about other motors, but on my Yamaha 900 CP3, when draining oil, I tilt the bike side to side and i get another 1/2 cup or more of old oil come out. Plus I'll leave it drain and go do something, It'll drip for 15 -20 minutes, I don't think any mechanic will pay that much attention to detail, that's why I always change it myself. I always got it hot but now I'm gonna run the piss out of it.

true, but... there are also oils that are already dark off the bottle fresh new from the manufacturer. so.. uhm... 🤷‍♂

cheers

I would recommend pre filling the oil filter with oil where possible.

Spot on. Must say even though I know, putting into practice every time, I have stuffed up. If in doubt, use a new filter too. You're right, fuckup, when your young & your always remember.
Good vid. 🖖

Such a gem of a video. Thank you sir, salute.

Great video and awesome explanation, thanks for sharing the knowledge. Subscribed! 👍👍

Great info! I have always gone for a good ride before changing the oil and filter mostly just to make sure it good and hot so i can get all of the old oil out. One more thing i do it sit on the bike while its draining and tip it from side to side. You would be suprised how much more trapped oil comes out.

Go where you are treated best.

the only thing I saw him do wrong was to not pre fill the oil filter with a decent bit of oil that is a impotent step

How did you not destroy your oil drain pan with oil that hot?

Great presentation, well done. If i could add a littlte tip it would be to put some fresh oil into your filter before you install it. That way the engine oil will circulate easier through it when you fire up.

Hi Adam... I am a big fan of yours .... Would you please do video on wearing gear as to what is best for protection and practicality....🙏🏼

Great info, thanks mate👍

an interesting thing i discovered years ago was oil quality.
I bought a car (turbo 5 cyl) and did an oil change when i got it home. It was 5000kms since its last change and the oil was still completely amber and clean.
i thought, wow thats interesting. Changed the oil with high quality stuff and at the next 5000km oil change it was black.
The point is, the oil's job is to lubricate, transfer heat and clean. the oil that was in there originally was not doing much cleaning. If its not going black, its not grabbing the gunk and holding it in suspension.
So contrary to popular belief, the oil staying a nice colour between changes is not a sign of good oil 'resisting' heat, its the sign of the oil not doing cleaning.

If you really want to get into it, grab a sample and send it to a lab. I did, and it saved me from a very, very expensive engine issue.

Hi guys, I just bought a 1994 klr 250 that hasn't been used for two years. What would be the best precautions to take when changing oil and coolant? Should i warm up the engine with that old oil inside? Or drain the old one, put new cheap oil, warm up engine and drain again before putting good oil in? Or is that too much waste..

Typical WA mechanical fitter, using a spanner as a hammer. No wonder everything on mine sites is fucked 😂

Söylediklerinin çoğunu anlamıyorum fakat eğitici videolar çekiyor sadece bir sürücü değil. Belki vardır bizde henüz rastlamadım daha çok asfaltta iyi arazide kötü boyu yüksek süspansiyon sert vs vs iki üç farklı motosiklete binerek bir çok insanın anlatacağı bilgiler.

Definitely, the bike service does not change the oil this way as you do. No boiling engine before. My bike sat for hours before they took it to change the oil so the oil was just like marmalade. Thank you for the priceless information

So it sounds like everyone arguing about the right way to do your oil filter is useless since your filter gets bypassed eventually. Also the other thing is I've never heard of an engine needing to be rebuilt as long as the oil has been changed no matter how. It only is really a problem if you don't do it.

I hear you about dealerships, not gonna mention any names, but I took my 2024 klx140 to be first serviced and I got it back scratched up chain lube all over the place an it looked like they took it out for a week an rode the bike. I was fuming. But I didn't call and complain, I just said never again I'll do what I can myself, and what I can't ill find a dealer who cares about my bikes. I have 3, a 2025 klx300, a 2024 klx140 and a 2025 husqvarna norden 901 expedition. So I'm going to very selective about the dealer I go to from now on and do what I can myself

pls follow below maintenance tips when changing oil:
1. with drain plug removed flush belly pan with small amount of fresh oil in order to remove sediments
2. always fill oil in oil filter before installation to ensure instant oil flow in the system during first start after oil change
3. oil the filter's rubber gasket to avoid jamming or drugging when tightening in order to have the optimum sealing

4. tight oil plug when motor is cold to avoid cracks on belly pan (if you tight drain plug when engine is hot and aluminium is expanded
you might experience cracks when engine gets cold and aluminium contracts)
5. turn the engine with the starter couple of times in order to fill the oil system and then start your engine
6. on prolonged stand-still during winter run your engine even on idle at operating temperature once every 15 days to minimize moisture
presence in your motor
7. frequent oil changes (depending on your riding style, environment etc) will save your motor
thanks and drive safe you all

❤

Great tips, and really good explanation of the how, what and why! Thanks.