I Tested Rechargeable Batteries From Amazon! Which one is the best?

The AA with a USB connection is likely a 3.7v cell, stepped down to 1.5v and shuts off once it drops below 1.5volt, it's part of its design to protect itself, the actual cell probably shuts down at 3.0volts.
These types of cells unlike normal nimh don't like running down until they are flat, it's a different chemistry used.

Not a bad way to test, but consider that the fans allthough identical will vary slightly in their power draw, but not enough to make anything more than a negligible difference in the outcome

Ollie wrote this meow

No eneloop?

Loved your video. The way you broke it down was awesome! You helped me buy the best batteries for my Oculus controllers ❤

Amazon Rechargeables suck. They used to be rebranded eneloops until a few years ago. Now the rebranded eneloops are made by ikea named Ikea LADDA

Some devices will fail to operate as voltage drops too much below 1.5V. The "inferior" USB battery might perform best with those.

do a test for dollar general batteries.

one thing to mention is reliability, even more so then compacity or "value for mAh" is reliability. Power Owl is somewhat notorious for being quite unreliable with many stories of the batteries "exploding" when being recharged; more so then other brands from what I have read. For these batteries to be worth while over just buying standard disposable batteries, they need to be exceptionally reliable and able to be successfully charged many times over and and that's ultimately what you are paying for when you get something like a Duracell is it's marketed reliability. A couple of brands that I'd like to see tested is Walmart's Sam's Club house brand "Maker's Mark" rechargeable batteries as well as what is supposedly "the best of the best" rechargeable batteries on the market; the Panasonic "Eneloop Pro" batteries that supposedly give the best compacity, charging, and possibly reliability of them all but at a very steep price (up to $25 on Amazon for 4 AAs which makes those expensive Duracells look like a bargain in comparison).

Excellent Video

Pouring smoke, glowing red, made a weird sound and threw it outside… gonna explode… IN THE FIRST 90 SECONDS, TYLER.
Everybody shut up or get out!

thanks a lot for the explanation , I realy appreciate it

Wow! I would’ve never thought Amazon basics takes the crown!!!!! 👑 😯😯

I've used the rayovac and the energizer rechargeables to make battery packs for my RC cars because replacements are no longer made. They work great. I use staples as the links between cells. I have some of the USB rechargeable cells but they cap out at 1,000mAh which isn't much good to me. I took the little charger circuit out of it and made a mini AA charger but it doesn't work that well.

I think you'll probably find that the USB chargeable battery has a lithium cell inside, the BMS would have shut off the battery at around 2.8v to protect the cell. As this cell would have an internal buck converter to drop the voltage to 1.5v this would also take a toll on the batteries expected capacity.

I have found the the higher. Capacity rechargeable Amazon battery’s 2400 have cheaper 8x batters then the 2000 8x battery’s
$16.72 for the 2000 8x. $16.48 for the 2400 8x

I just bought 16 of the "Powerowl" pro batteries. 5 more months to go for your update! I'm really looking forward to your year results! 🤘🏻

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Thank you so much 😊⭐️

Ok, thank you for your work. Thats a good test. But its also very important the auto discharge. Because i have EBL rechargeable and they are trash. Ok, you charge them right away and you use fast thats fine, but if you use 20% after charge, than after a week when you reuse that device with Ebl on, you find that the charge of battery are very low. Would be nice a test of capacity after 1 week, 4 weeks of no use. With Eneloop the charge after 1 month is the same. Ebl sucks. Now i test Amazon and my hopes are high

Great comparison but why didn't you include Sony rechargeable battery in this comparison?

I'm going to go out on a limb on this. I bet the fitovitch battery is a little lower than it's reported mah like several of the other brands. But I think each of those fitovitch batteries have their own chip inside them to control their charge/discharge. This is needed due to the way they charge off of a USB cable that doesn't contain a chip. That being said, I think there is a limiter on discharging. Like if the discharge voltage drops below a certain threshold then the battery stops working to preserve health of the battery. This also makes me think there's a charge limit too for the same reason. Realistically I bet you can only charge them to 90% and discharge down to 25%. They'll probably last half a lifetime if the electronics don't blow. But they'll also cost you half a lifetime of charging 🤦🤷

whats the charger your using?

Reviews like this are huge, how else would we know what we’re spending our hard earned cash on 🤷🏻‍♂️

Credit for doing a full and thorough test on these as pretty much all of them are widely available and are portrayed by as fantastic batteries through their own marketing campaigns. It’s really interesting to see the so called cheaper and budget options sticking it to the premium brands out there.

Subscribed bro 👊🏻

@tylertube. Love your straight up factual content!!! Can you please put up a some kind of table/chart of those result numbers on the video as you talk so that we don’t have rewind and repeat the results. Thanks 🙏!

Two brands you should try Eneloop (probably the best) and Ansmann (great for high capacity)

Nice charger BTW Powerex make the best chargers IMO.

Where did you find Energizer AA's with only 1300mah!? I bought some about a month ago from Target that are 2300, and I just checked Amazon and they show 2300 under Model Name: ‎ENR NH15BP-8.04 RECH AA-8 2300 MAH

Tyler, that "AA Battery" is a lithium-ion battery. It has a regulator to drop the Li-on 3.7 volts to 1.5 volts. When you tried to charge it with a nickel metal charger, you probably damaged that circuit, and possibly the battery itself. That type of battery runs at 1.5 until it can no longer provide 1.5 volts, then it shuts off. That's why it acted the way it did when you tried to use it to run the fan.

Someone likely already pointed this out but the one battery with the charge port.. was it lithium ion by chance and the rest Nimh?

Commenting for someone to bring me back when the video is posted about the 1000 lifecycles in a year 😂

No Bonai 2800s?

Yeah idk who makes these rechargeable batteries for amazon but they are incredibly good! Better than some ridiculously priced batteries ive purchased.

So, someone probably mentioned this at the beginning, but in case they didn't... the usb charging battery is lithium. From what I've gathered while trying to see if rechargeable was worth investing in, the battery is natively 3.7v and has to have resistors/capacitor to bring the voltage down to the usable 1.5-1.6v range (and there is some loss when going through this)
But when the capacity was listed it was in mWh instead of mAh, which since it is a different native voltage, is not as useful to compare. Instead most NiMh batteries are closer to 1.2v (though I'd like you to check 🤔)
To compare them fully you'd be best served by multiplying their stated mAh by their actual voltage. (it might even explain the slight difference between duracell and amazon) but then all bateries capacities would be listed in mWh for apples-to-apples comparison.
Lastly, lithium are much better at providing full power till fully discharged, but also dealing with circuitry to step down the voltage, it might artificially cut it off even though it still has electrons "in the tank"

This whole discussion has me intrigued, seriously it seems like the lithium would be great if they prioritized creating a cemistry from the ground up that matched 1.5v instead of jerry-rigging something to work or using NiMh at a lower voltage... both seem like they're trying to make sure they don't canablize the existing alkaline industry...
So as long as the "big battery" mafia doesn't come knocking on my door, I look forward to seeing if any of these batteries can come close to their cycle ratings!

WHAT ABOUT RAYOVAC

What charger was this tested with?

Just a heads up, it looks like Amazon Basics have dropped in price considerably. I just got 12 AAs for $13.00. That may change but it is probably a good idea to compare with Power Owl before committing to a purchase.

Amazon basics rechargeable batteries downright blow. aa and aaa charge them and by the next day they have all lost almost half their power in a day, they have a non existent shelf life. A complete waste of money. You should do a shelf life test.

To answer your question why some have bigger capacity it is because different applications required different levels of discharge things that are very high energy output require a high discharge rate which will give you lower capacity and when you have higher capacity you have lower discharge rates so for applications that just need a slow steady trickle for a long time high-capacity batteries are good but for applications where a lot of power is needed like some powerful flashlights higher capacity batteries will simply not have enough amperage to actually run the device at full power that's why you would use one of those lower capacity batteries because it has a higher power output even though it's mah is lower its Amps are higher. Think of it like a diesel engine versus a gasoline engine how a diesel engine might seem like it has a lot less horsepower but it has five times as much torque and can pull a house off of its foundation versus a sports car that has way higher horsepower and it really couldn't pull anything but it can go really fast it's just different applications required different energy delivery. That us why not all batteries that are the same size have the same capacity because the capacity is relative to the amperage aka power output

Wouldn't mind seeing a 6-month video, since it's Black Friday! Amazon 8-pack 2400mAh for $13. PowerOwl 8-pack 2800mAh for $17. Is the difference in mAh worth it?
Mostly buying for Mom's handheld magnifying light that eats batteries. :P

Great job! Confirms Power Farm's videos from years ago. Thanks!

The USB C one isnt a NiMh, it is a lithium battery with a built in charger, down converter and low voltage protection. The fan stops abruptly because you get the full voltage output up until the lipo protection kicks in and cuts the output. Converting a 1S lipo to 1.5v is not efficient at all but it's the way to go if you have a very low current device that absolutely requires 1.5v to function properly.

Great video best I seen so far

A good daily test cycle could be just sticking them in those solar garden lights.

Where to get the battery charger you use

Excellent! I've been using EBL for a few years. They somewhat do the job but between them and the slow/weak charger it's pretty frustrating. After watching your video I bought the Amazon basics 2400mah aa and aaa.. as well as that turbocharger. Gonna be nice.. the only thing I'd say is if I could charge them via Usb c that could be better.. in an end of the world scenario.. using a solar charging system.

that USB is Li-ion constant 1,5 V not 1,2 like rest and it has step down converter so nothing special it died stoping instantly. So the 1,5 Voltage and constant voltage during time is its value

The batteries with the USB port are lithium and not NiMH like all the others in this test. Also lithium drains differently than NiMH batteries. The NiHM will keep putting out power until there is nothing left and as it gets lower the item it is powering will start to slow down. Lithium on the other hand will drain only until a point that it can no long fully power the item and will stop dead rather than slowing down.

Lot of eneloop shilling going on in the comments. Very suspicious

So if i were to buy amazon basics for my xbox one controller, should i go for the 2000mah or the 2400mah based on your test? The 2400 is rated for about 400x charges while the 2000 is rated for 1000x