How to Set Pinion Angle

Awesome simple and easy explanation. Thank you

I am no expert but u-joints do not like 0 degrees. My limited knowledge says 0.5 to 3 degrees for the u-joints and that should match at both ends. The diff and transmissions ends should be parallell. But hey, what do I know...

Well now I have the basics. What digital protractor are you using? I can't find one that appears to be worth a crap for under $250. Maybe I've read too many reviews.

Every site I've watched have been big on having front and back pinion angles should be parallel to each other unless I missed something there your front pinion was inline with the driveshaft and your back was at an angle

I've built a lot of street and race vehicles over the last 55 years and I have seen a lot of home built suspension that made me absolutely cringe. This is a very clear and understandable instructional. Good stuff!

I been looking for a video on this that doesn’t confuse me and this one thus far is thee best one!!!!! He covered every aspect step by step, amazing

going to do this today! Thanks for the info!

This helped a lot thank you sir.

Ok so my passenger rear tire is around 1/4" closer to the fender lip than the driver's side. Which upper control arm do I shorten or lengthen to try and get perfectly centered?? Thanks for the videos!!

I do not agree with this. The drive line folks all recommend that engine centerline and pinion be parallel under load. You do NOT necessarily want the driveshaft inline (0 degrees) with engine centerline. Likely in the minimal miles on a 1/4 mi that does not matter.

I wish you guys were closer! id lover for you guys to setup my car!!

But what is a good working angle for a street car ?

You are calling for 0 drive-line angle on the front u joint??? I thought there should always be at least .5 degree?

I don't know. I was told that trans and rear end needed to be parallel. And what you did here is make them non parallel. In fact you should raise the rear end not lower it to match the opposite parallel line for the trans. Now I'm more confused than ever. Perhaps I was listening to the wrong people tell me the trans and rear end need to be parallel? Thanks.

Great video and it makes perfect sense, the way you explain it. Could you elaborate on how you determined perfect center for the reference point. I have a S197 and that is where I'm coming up short. I don't see a good way to find a good point of reference.

Thank you

So Dana drive shaft disagrees with you. The say the front drive shaft angle should be the same, but opposite as the pinion angle...now, who's right?

You absolutely schooled me on this subject and it will be great knowledge for the fox I'm building. 👍👍👍💯💯🇺🇸

2011 Mustang GT has Hi speed vibration, checked driveshaft balance, Trans mounts, bolts and rebuilt rear end, all new bearings and new gear set. Had Vibration before that and still has it. So what should the pinion angle is best? And drive shaft angle? Thanks hope I hear back. Ron

The only thing I'm confused about is I always thought you wanted the pinion always pointing downward slightly in the negative?

Very well explained, quite helpful

This is how i've been doing pinion angle since i started racing Foxbodys 20+ years ago.

Not being a full-time mechanic I have some questions. This is for a high-performance street car with leaf springs with Cal tracks installed. What is an acceptable engine angle to start with and what should the pinion angle be or acceptable ranges?

THANKS!

I learned something.

I used to build exhabition drag cars. 10 liter and 8.3 liter Arais Motors. And we had a 3 inch thick titanium rod that we put between the rear end and the crankshaft and that's how we would align everything. The cars were faster then the ones you would watch on tv since there were only a handful of guys in the whole country then that could afford to do this without sponsorship.

Great! How do you know where it supposed to be if you’re experiencing driveline vibrations?

Can you explain more how you found the center of the car with a laser

Can you please explain more how you got the center mark of the car.

Hi, I know this is old but, I have an 89 fox GT and I watched your video and I’m trying to set my pinion angle but, I can’t get my engine at 0°. Its sitting at 4.50° downward but, due to my transmission which is a TKO600 and it’s hitting the tunnel, and I can’t get it no higher than 4.10°. What do I do? Does my engine need to be at 0°?

I have a 2-piece driveshaft in my ‘60 Cadillac .. it’s been bagged and has a vibration 45-55 otherwise smooth as glass . Do you have any videos that will help me setup a corrected pinion angle after installing adjustable control arms and stationary upper stabilizer ? Thanks , Chuck in Illinois

Believing that the transmission yoke and the drive shaft should be inline is incorrect.
That will cause rapid wear on the UJ bearings.
There should be at least a half a degree difference.
2 degees is better but no more than three.
The trans yoke and the differential pinion should be parallel.

So why did you mention the 123 block?

Great informative video. On that car your magic number was 2.5* pinion angle. What would you recommend for a stock style suspension with coil overs, 275 drag radials and alot of separation ? Thanks for you time and videos

I should probably go back and square my rear using this method. I just made sure the steering wheel was straight and then measured from the front of the front wheel rim lip to the front of the rear wheel rim lip on both sides or course.😁 it'd be nice to have a lift to do this.

Thanks guys!!!

Just one question, you you put your angle finder and put on driveshaft or diff, do zero’d it every time?

Why not straight aligned with the drive shaft?

Pinion angle confuses most people. Go find spicers video of driveshaft velocity. That’s what you really need to know

The pinion needs to be negative right? Like you don’t want it facing upward creating positive degree right?

Hello, I'd like to know, can I just tighten the uppers arms, then it should be centered then lengthen them to final pinion angle

Wat to do if there is a 2.5- on the engine and transmission, or should I just focus on the pinion

Thanks all good info here

Excellent video! When checking the pinion/yoke angle you can grab a the biggest socket you can fit that will butt against the u joint cap then check it to make sure both ends are square to each other and set it on the cap and put your angle finder on the socket. No need to pull the shaft.

I have the street beast kit in my Foxbody, street/strip car with a drag radial. Sounds like a -2.5 is a good starting point. I measured the stock arms and adjusted the Team z arms to the same length (uppers & lowers) without checking the pinion angle, the rear-end was centered up about perfect, I have driven the car a couple times and it seems to hook up really well.. If anyone would like to reply with further instructions or tips, that would be great. The only question I have is: Will it be ok to do this with the front of the car on the ground and the rear on jack stands..? I don't have access to a drive-on lift or a pit.

Whats happening here, ‘in theory’, is ‘ok’, if the vehicle has never been bent, twisted, in an accident etc etc. If it has been, ALL BETS ARE OFF!!!! First to say about the six point nut or bolt that the point is facing forward is ludicrous!! Nuts & bolts when made do not have the threads start in exactly the same place in every piece when threaded in manufacturing!! And to look at something and say the rear end is centered side to side or even front to back is ludicrous. Just air pressure in a tire could make tire wider and be off. If off a 1/16 of an inch MOST people can’t see that plus using angles and degrees if you not standing in EXACTLY, in the same position behind the vehicle moving side to side looking at the back it could be off by a 1/4 inch or more and NEVER see it! Just moving your head side to side can make it look equal to both sides. All four ‘tires’ (but we should say rims because you want to align the rims, not tires), could be set to the right side of the car one inch but if the rims are square with each other, in alignment with each other, all set to run ‘perfectly’ straight, that is truly what the goal is. Granted this is racing, but even exotic high performance cars are never EVER aligned with the body by ‘just’ looking at it. Sorry I call it the way I see it! And to say “look down the drive tran to see if it’s straight” is ludicrous also! Your ‘eyes’ can’t see a 1, 2, or even 3 degree or more side to side difference alignment of the engine drive shaft and rear end. Yes up & down you’re using a degree level, but how do you check side to side?? Sorry, again I call it the way I see it, in other words never trust your eyes, it’s all set up with some type of measuring device, from simple tape measure to racks and everything in between!!!

EXXELLENT VIDEO . Very helpful. I have actully set up a plumb dot laser on the floor to a point on the car and chalked a line on the floor in an x pattern point to point. Its also sometimes its easier to measure if your in a tight space and dont have a lift. You can always double check with a plumb bob to make sure your laser is accurate. Im no pro chassis guy by any stretch. just a little knowledge in construction helps.

Thanks to put it into perfect sense for me I'm in the middle of doing my mustang and you just made it easy