Dog Aggression Secret

no offence but I disagree with yoy. I have used treats and rewards to redirect and aggressive dog's attention. Correction training is being scientifically proven to be flawed. service dogs aren't trained this way. They key to redirecting with treats and toys is to start from a distance and gradualy get closer rewarding calm behaivior. this DOES work the tricckis you actuall have to be commited!

@ASDogGeek Correction training hasn't been proven flawed.I've seen a handful of studies that claim to find flaws but what they are finding flaws with is incorrect correction training.Proper corrections are the best, fastest, and most humane way to train a dog.I've heard people claim to fix aggression with treats, to date I've never seen it done.If you do it I think that's great and wish you all the best. There are lots of ways to train a dog.I like my methods but know that there are many others.

@communicanine well we can agree to disagree but I like your dog :) no scence in being enemies just diffrent methods. I am an avaded study in clicker training and plan to attend the karen Pryor clicker accademey. Oh have you looked at tellingoton touc? that is fasinating

If you haven't seen someone fix dog aggression issues with 'treats', try visiting Dr. Sophia Yin's website. You will find videos about dog aggression and using reward based systems to fix those problems. Another great one to check out would be Grisha Stewart's BAT (Behavior Adjustment Training) on her functional rewards website. It's reward-based, but not necessarily food rewards. In fact, it works best when you stop using food, and is good for dogs with fear, anxiety, frustration, aggression.

and what if dog is getting too excited / showing dominance / aggressive when he is close to food or he see there is a treat? How to solve that kind a situation and correct behaviour..? 10q

If a dog is rewarded with anything other than a natural reaction, such as petting, kind words, or approving silence, the training method is not universal. Treats are only for food-motivated dogs, and have the costs of money, time, nutritional imbalance, convenience, consistency, and universality. Other rewards, like clickers, are similar in that not everyone who needs to command the dog will have access to the reward device. Simpler, quicker, no-frustration methods are better in dog training.

All dogs are food motivated - if they weren't, they would be dead. If you come across a dog that does not appear food motivated, then there is an underlying stress or health issue that needs to be addressed. Also, I just mentioned Behavior Adjustment Training, which helps with dog-dog, dog-human aggression/reactivity/fear. This method is entirely independent of food and clickers, is quick and extremely effective especially in the long-term, and is simple enough for the average owner to learn.

Also, I assume you are referring to force-based methods when you say 'simpler, quicker, no-frustration method'. However, keep in mind that these methods require a lot of technical skill that takes a long time to learn and apply appropriately - in the meantime, the dog is the guinea pig. Your timing needs to be perfect in order for a dog to form a correct association, and because the dog is not learning on its own, many repetitions need to be applied in order for consistent behavior to result.

In order for something to be considered a reward, the dog must find it motivating enough to work for. It doesn't have to be food, and may include toys, praise, games and freedom. Keep in mind that not every dog finds petting and verbal praise rewarding. To some, this is frightening or bothersome, and may actually elicit aggressive or anti-social behaviors! Also, dogs are not mind-readers, and 'approving silence' causes anxiety, especially followed by a correction.

One final thing, a clicker is a marker, not a reward. It marks the exact moment that a dog has done something correctly, and is then followed by food. The reason why food is used is because it is fast to use, and learning occurs quickly this way. It is an extremely effective way to teach new behaviors because it is clear and concise and leaves no room for confusion for the dog. Again, if there are food-motivation issues, then stress and health issues need to be addressed before clicker training.

The dog should sit politely, make eye contact and wait for any food, chews or toys to be given. Systematically get your dog used to your presence while he is eating, by tossing him treats from a distance where he is not growling yet. The idea is to have your dog trust you enough to not defend against you. If your dog growls, then you have simply gone too far too soon - do not correct or get into a physical confrontation, just take a step back and keep working at it in a positive manner.

If there's trouble with basic manners, loop the leash around your waist to keep the dog attached to you (hands free) at all times when he is not confined to his crate. Anytime that he wants anything (attention, treats, passage through a doorway, freedom), he must Sit to say please. If he does not, simply restrict him with the leash and keep the rewards out of reach until he settles and decides to sit down. The first few times will be difficult, but once he knows the rules he won't argue anymore.

Work at this diligently for 2-3 weeks, and never allow the dog to have anything he wants without working for it, and you will see a dramatic change in behavior in that time. Keep at it and broaden your use of life rewards (greeting people/dogs, going for a walk/continuing the walk after stopping, playing at the park) and restrict your dog from all rewards when he misbehaves. Praise and allow access to rewards when he sits politely, looks at you, walk nicely, etc. Be more persistent than the dog!

Food motivation in training is different than food motivation to survive. I personally know two dogs who prefer people to steak dangled at them. Tasty treats go only so far with these dogs. The BAT seems good on first look, since the dog is making the choice to change the behavior. I'll look more into it. :)

What a fraud

If his dog is so well trained, why the leash, and why is he holding it so short? Just seems a little odd. He never let's go of the leash.

there is nothing guaranteed Ty, I agree there is not magic cure so how can you guarantee anything.

Why would anyone hold onto a secret when it could help so many dogs.  I spent thirty years as a martial arts instructor and always heard of these secret systems.  There is no secret to training if it is based on science....

as far as obedience and magically erasing aggression.  I have worked with some of the highest level obedience dogs that have been more reactive then the non high level obedience dog.  The best way to help dogs with reactivity issues is to empower them by teaching other choices... 

so no treats or hot dogs.  I guess counter conditioning and classical conditioning does not work.  Wow I guess science is wrong and you are right.....

What you say about the so-called "treat training" just proves to the rest of us that you don't know the first thing about it.  When you do, you will look back on this video and realise how stooopid you sound to us right now. 

I cant see the link information

He sounds like a used car salesman…….GEEZ!!

whats the method since u going on and on about it yawn as a dog would do

too much talk not even action

Some of your videos are great but you are way off with the treat thing. If you find positive reinforcement ineffective, you are doing it wrong. The mistake most people and many trainers, especially those who rely on tools like prong collars and shock collars, and possibly and probably you, since you haven't been successful with it, is to wait until the dog reacts to the trigger and THEN try to give the dog treats. That is ass backward. D&C with positive reinforcement works very well but you need to use the treats before the dog reacts and then slowly and gradually decrease the distance between the dog and the trigger. Also, your retreat and recall or whatever you call it looks to me like almost the same thing as a "front" command or even an emergency U-turn which can be trained, again, with positive reinforcement using treats or whatever motivates the dog. If you want to see a short summary of how positive reinforcement works to deal with aggression, just look at some of the Sophia Yin videos.

I'm definitely not saying your methods don't work, but to say that positive reinforcement methods using treats and other positive reinforcers don't work is simply wrong and all it tells me is that you're not familiar with how to apply them correctly. I see that this is an old video so maybe you have become more familiar with R+ methods between then and now. If you have, you may want to update this vid. If you haven't, then I stand by what I said. The claim that R+ doesn't work for aggression is simply wrong.

One more point I'd like to correct - there is NO method that is 100% guaranteed to work for any type of training or behavior issue. Dogs are living beings with their own unique personalities, fears, motivators, experiences which have shaped their behaviors,, temperament, and genetic traits and tendencies which are generally very difficult to overcome. While you may be able to reduce a dog's fear and aggression, sometimes to the point where it is no longer an issue, you simply cannot guarantee that you can take a dog-aggressive dog and turn him into a dog park saint or a very fearful dog and turn it into a social butterfly. Just like there's no way you can guarantee to train a random chihuahua to be a seeing eye dog, you can't guarantee to magically fix aggression no matter what method you use.

Funny story - I can train dog with aggression with a clicker and treat! You need to update !

I'm bored.

Thanks Ty. You are right on as usual. It's the owner that's the problem most of the time. I've got your DVD set coming.

I am so sick of trainers who train aggressive dogs with treats. 90% of the time the owner is treating the dog in an excited state or the treat itself triggers excitement. This is not what you want. I am sorry all these positive reinforcement wannabe know it alls give you a hard time. When they send home dogs who later rip a baby's face off, maybe they'll get it. I have tried every single type of training and had "success" but it is a simple fact that you can't stop a behavior or eliminate a state of mind by reinforcing an alternate state/behavior (you can reduce it but not eliminate it). I can't figure out why people think the way dogs train other dogs is not natural or causese harm. Dog packs seem to have great harmony.

Blah blah blah blah blah blah....

He literally never said positive reinforcement is bad or ineffective. He said solely relying on food praise is not correct.

Got so sick of this guy using the word “literally” over & over!
And he’s not even understanding positive reinforcement training! you don’t treat dogs when they display aggression... it when they show calmness. Horrible sales guy.

Well show us with a more Dominant dog tho