Avoid the Blob! on Creality K1, K1C and K1 Max

It’s interesting to see all the comments about glue. In a previous video a commenter said it only goes on the strip. Another said it goes on the whole bed. I see a lot of similar comments on this video.
Bottom line is a quality PEI bed and especially a textured PEI bed shouldn’t need glue at all. Creality shouldn’t even put that writing on the bed.
I thought it was funny but somewhat obvious but I clearly didn’t deliver the message properly.
If it needs glue it’s not a quality bed. The A plate is poor quality.

I would prefer "Avoid the Creality K1, K1C and K1 Max"

Never used glue or tape , Had an original CR10 for years very soon after got a nice thick PEI sheet and loved it. Later I found a textured PEI plate..... Ordered the K1 on black Friday with the textured plate and still haven't ever used glue or tape 🙂

The point of the different plates is to have a different finish. I foyu want a textured finish, B plate. Smooth finish? A plate.

Just because you can't figure out how to glue your bed doesn't mean you should tell people not to use a bed that works perfectly fine when you actually know what you're doing.

I've had a K1 for a few months now I had the same problem as you but heres what I did. What i find is that the stock profiles all have the bed temp at 45c, in my experience that is too low. I increased that to 55c and my adhesion problem are totally gone. In fact, I have never needed to use the glue since making this adjustment.

I still rock glass on my old Ender 5, never gives me problems. 🤷‍♂️ printers shouldn’t need upgrades to work, especially now.

My PrusaXL came with both, and while I haven't printed much on the satin on, I'm in love with the textured. I bought varying textured ones for the Ender 3s/Vox Aquillo that I own, and its been better than the normal beds as well. I think the textured sure be the default on all of them given how well they work as well.

Chuck said he cleaned with water and soapy water. Has anybody with an A plate tried cleaning it with acetone? I don't have this printer or an A plate, but I have a smooth Creality PEI base plate for my Ender 3. A bit of acetone on a paper towel always does the trick, when even IPA isn't strong enough.

I have a k1 and tried the textured which worked great the first few times. The print line is rippled along it's length and it is printing as if the Brim is not there, building up a thick line. I tried the original and it's doing the same thing there too. Any input would be
appreciated.

I bought that Creality PEI textured plate for my CR-10 and haven’t had a bed adhesion issue once since using it! Never used glue or even cleaned the plate with a liquid. I simply use a microfiber cloth to wipe the plate after a print and that’s it

So normally are you printing PLA at 60° C bed?

I have a K1Max and have not used glue. I had some prints with poor adhesion (rough bottom surface), but it seemed to fix when I recalibrated on prints that cover more of the build plate.

Why would you only apply glue to the top strip?

Always applied glue stick to my whole A plate and not had a failed print due to bed adhesion problems.

As I stated on Threads.....feel free to use glue if it works for you on certain surfaces. I only use it when needed. Like lately during a cold snap outside there was just enough of a cold draft coming off our brand new triple pane windows that's by my 3D printers, the prints were lifting off both my glass plate printer and the textured PEI sheet printer. Stuck some stick glue down and they were good to go. But sadly I had tried everything else first before noticing the cold draft, -25 degree weather is no match for even good triple-pane windows with argon between the glass. Brrrrrrr!! Now that we are back in the 30s and 40s the problem has gone away.

From previous experience with smooth plates I purchased the textured plate for my K1 and haven't done a single print with the smooth one.
Never used any glue with it and have always had perfect prints, if something ever sticks to well to the plate then just let it cool down and anything should pop right off once the plate & part cools down.

They should really supply a double sided build plate with A and B sides. I bought a B plate with mine as I use petg and didn't want smooth.

Try to use heai Spray for bed adhesion , hear spray have Pva in their formula , thats helps to stick , and always do a good corner level , a good z offser setup , and thats it

Just ordered your linked B plate just because I would like to get that texture. I have the K1 with the A plate and have not had issues with it sticking. A few times a had a hard time getting the print off so maybe the one you had has some kinda defect? Anyway I print mostly Esun PLA+, sainsmart TPU, but 90% of my prints are with inland ASA.

I have a b plate but not from Creality still love it tho works like a charm

Question ? What kind of pla do you use on the K1 Max, normal pla of special pla?

No Build plate needs glue to get first layer adhesion, i thought we where past that already.

Creality should ditch all copycat A/cool plates (and PC plates) for good and go with dual-sided smooth+textured PEI plates.

I'm running ender-clone with such (Comgrow?) plate, and it's best of both worlds: small prints attach better on smooth side, big prints and PETG pop off from textured side.

While it's definitely unusual that, I assume a "normal" filament is having excessive trouble sticking to that surface, I wonder what exactly is happening that's giving it trouble 🤔

I read/heard somewhere (sorry, can't remember where) that the A build plate for K1 series was designed to work with the LiDAR included in the K1 Max. Creality is supposedly going to offer the LiDAR as an upgrade to the K1/k1C, and that may be why they continue to include the A plate. I have printed on the A plate with and without glue, and decided to continue using glue as it makes removing models easier. Having said that, I'm ordering the PEI plate with PEI as I have had very good luck printing on PEI with my other Creatlity printers. If Creality ever releases the LiDAR for the K1, and if it continues to require the A plate, I can switch back :)

Forget the glue. I spray my K1 A type bed with a light coat of TRESemmé Extra Hold Unscented Hairspray and it works great. Refresh it with another very light spray between prints (or not at all 50% of the time) and after a dozen or so prints wash it off completely with hot soapy water, dry, wipe down with alcohol and reapply hairspray.

Great video!

After receiving my K1, the plate that comes with it proved to be a design mistake.
I purchased a normal PEI sheet from Creality which functions perfectly.
The 23*23 sheets from other printers I have, I modified by Dremeling two corners so it would fit on my K1 as well.

Creality is a scam in my opinion. They produce cheap scrap since CR10v1 and hope that the fanbase will cheer about the low price and ignores the bad quality. 6 years after i bought my CR10 it is really usable now with 150mm+/s printspeed and reproducable high quality prints. But i changed so many parts that it isn't a Creality anymore (Orbiter 2, Rapido HF, Meanwell Power Supply, 200 Watt Biqu Printbead, SKR 1.3 Mainboard, 55Ncm Stepperonline, Energychains, Raspi/Klipper, Inputshaper etc.)

Seriously, thanks for always bringing these type of issues forward. I want to get k1 Max! You mentioned that Micro center has it for $699.99 , I was looking for it on other websites for a lower price. Well, my friend you just save me and thanks again. I'm actually going to place my order now and pick it up today.

You're supposed to put glue stick on the whole bed. You've been around long enough to know this.

lol i use glue where i print, none on the wipe are. do i need to glue wipe too? Also ordered B plate still waiting for it to arrive.

Dude … no glue on the rubber part? Only where you want it to stick - which is the plate itself

Surely you just clean with alcohol between prints, right?

Supposed to glue the entire bed. I run my k1 at lower than stock bed temp too. I use bambu stock temps 36c I think. Only have adhesion issues when I don't glue (entire bed). I do a glue stick layer up and down and a layer left and right.

Ive had the blob on my K1, had to cut out the plastic and then replace the heater block/nozzle due to cutting one of hte wires when remove. I will try this.

Why don't they supply a double-sided build plate with an A and B sides?

I recommend to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the A build plate than it works perfect.

So the solution is to get a P1S, gotcha

Ohhh CHEP, CHEP are you punking us!
The strip at the back is just to wipe/clean the nozzle for even bed leveling. You apply glue stick to the print area (the plate where your print is going to print).
We love you man!

I've watched many of your videos, this is first time you sounded like a noob! Everyone knows you put glue where you intend to print. It's like wanting to put your model plane together by putting glue on your forehead. Silly chep!

looks like every creality printer no matter what it is just needs one mod or improvement to make it better notice chep posting a bunch of fixes for the k 1 max but said his p1s from bambu is the best printer hes ever used lol

I've not had issues with the A plates on my K1's... (except for petg sticking too well) I only wipe the plate clean with a 1" alcohol prep pad (the kind used for diabetic injections) and no adhesion problems on 2 different plates with PLA... I did torture test an A plate with PETG, and I ruined one after printing about 7kg of parts (It tore a section of the PEI sticker off of the steel sheet).

The apply glue message is for the build area of the sheet... the directions aren't that clear I guess. Since I killed the A plate with petg, I found Creality replacements on amazon for $15 and use one just for PETG with gluestick. I am going to try a different build sticker on the damaged plate (GeckoTek hot), but need to clean the adhesive off first... waiting for it to be warm enough to do outside...

I think @CHEP wanted to point out that the instructions for a lay person would read to only apply glue to that space. Not the entire print surface. It should read apply glue to the print surface before use. It might have been a translation error that got passed through quality control.

Once again to solve an issue with a creality printer you have to spend more money and buy new parts.

I use glue stick everywhere and works perfect every time PLA/ABS/ASA all sticks to the plate just fine after all it does say to use glue

I put glue on the print area of both the A and B plates, and I always get perfect prints.

I don’t know if this is the right thing to do, probably not. But I’ve been using windex to clean the factory plate after every print and the prints stick to it like crazy. I’ve been printing 24 hours for 2 weeks on my K1 and I haven’t had a single issue with it sticking or warping.

My K1 Max will not print the B Plate if I check the, calibrate before print, but will for the A Plate, I think it has to do with the Lidar, Bambu has the same problem on their Textured Plates, as for the Glue, IT"S THE PRINT AREA. so, if I want it to do the Flow calibration before print, I haft to use the A plate. as for the B plate, its the old way, do the flow test in the slicer, and the like, and it will print well...

I had the blob of death after a week of having the k1max, I had nothing but issues with the machine since, I got it printing nicely now but had to put bed levling screws on as the lieght map was a 1.5mm variance. I use a texted peo/pei plate and love them. I only use the a plate when Im calabrating.