Flip Top Tool Stand with NEW Features | DIY Shop Storage

Good morning, I'm in the process of building this now. Its my 4th project from you for my garage shop and all have been great and I expect this to be as well. I just have one quick question. What do you use to secure the tools too the bench? I will be securing my Kreg pocket hole jig and my planer on the flip side. Are they just nuts with no bolts to secure them? I know its a total rookie question but I am what I am. Thank you in advance.

Here’s a like and subscribe based on the Funyuns joke alone. Also great build.

Hey man great job and very explanatory. Is there any chance to have the plans in metric?

Total rookie here but I finally bought the plans and made this yesterday f9e my new DeWalt 735w and Rigid Spindle Sander. Took me a day and the plans worked out great! I made a couple small alterations on the fly but otherwise worked awesome!

Why not just use a sliding bolt like you use for a gate on the shelf? Didn't want two holes?

Future iteration idea: with the planer being possibly the heaviest part of the equation, I wonder if it'd be viable to have some kind of ... fold down "step on this" brace to help stabilize the cart when things flip over? Hmm...

BTW, if you're looking for 'em, search for "C-Clamp Locking Pliers" ;)

Is that a piece of conduit ? Thx

Nice clear instructions and great video. Thank you !

As always.... very nice build... What do you use for your waterborne poly finish?

When doing the drawer how high was the spacer you put the slides on?

Do you think it is safe to place a planet and spindle sander on a flip cart. I work in a small 10x14 shop with limited shelf space and have watched multiple flip cart videos that feature a planer and sander. Considering purchasing your plans buy, wanted your opinion on this subject.

Great plan, I did add one enhancement that might help with operations and longevity, I added a 3/4 id. and 1 3/8 OD bearing bored 1/2 into the inside of the side panels

Hello Brad! I ordered the plans earlier this year and finally got around to building the cart over the past week. It turned out great! Two things I want to mention though that may help others with the build. First, I just didn't feel comfortable with the lag screw mounting method for the tools, so I went with holes drilled through the top and machine bolts, washers and nuts to secure my planer and sander. Since the Dewalt 735 planer and my WEN sander have completely different mounting hole patterns, it wasn't a problem at all. And even though two of the sander bolt holes ended up directly under the planer, the Dewalt 735 has what amounts to a "hollow" raised base that sits almost 2" above the surface which allowed for the end of the bolts from the sander to protrude 1/2" with no issue. Secondly, and perhaps most importantly....if you are going to mount a Dewalt 735 planer and plan on centering it on the top, you will NOT be able to flip the top without removing the handle that raises and lowers the planer bed! Ask me how I know...lol. Yes, I was a bit bummed when I tried flipping the top for the first time, but that handle removed with only one hex bolt and the tool for it and other adjustments on the planer sits in its own slot right on top of the planer anyway. The only solution that I could imagine would be to mount the Dewalt 735 at 90 degrees away from what I would consider to be the "normal" way to mount it OR simply move it to the left far enough for that handle to clear the top of the right side piece of the cart. I'm sure those few inches wouldn't cause any issues with the balance of the cart. For me though, I'll be in the "remove the handle" crowd whenever I need to use the sander! 😅

Hi Brad I bought your plans for the flip top cart, and I was wondering what you used to secure the Jet thicknesser to the cart, as you don't mention it? Thanks

Very nice innovation Brad.

I had a quick question. How has screwing the planer down held up when its upside down?

What screws did you use to secure your planer to the top?

Hotel key card stealer1!

I'm interested in your no-mar countersink bit. In your comment you state that it's the Amana 55227, but that one seems sized for #6 screws. Do you use #6 or #8 screws? Curious because the Amana 55229 appears to be better suited for #8 screws based on Amazon comments.

Just downloaded this plan. I hope I do it justice.

Great video and info, thanks! I'm building this now but with a few changes.

Rather than a 3/4" tube to hold the flip top, I'm using a 5/8" steel bar (cuz I had that available). I cut a 5/8 cove along the edges of the pieces that sandwich the bar so there's no wobble as it spins. The bar will rest into 5/8" flange bearings to allow easier flipping.
Also, rather cutting the slots for the retaining eye bolts, I glued 2.5 x 2.5 x .25 piece of poplar at each corner of each piece of the flip top. I already had the 1/4" wood and it made things so much easier. This also allows adding ball catches rather than using magnets.
Lastly, I added a hanging tool storage to the side for the lathe tools.
I made mine 33" wide to fit my mini lathe.

I learned the hard way that cheap plywood just won't hold up for this, especially when mounting 150# of machinery.

Nice work!

I've got the plans and most of the material already. But I'm in the middle of a major purge of my basement/shop. When done, I'll get going on this build. I have a Dewalt 735 with an upgraded Shelix head. I'll be picking up a Ridgid oscillating belt/spindle sander. This will be perfect. But I have a suggestion for your build. When assembling the box, t would be much easier to install the shelf/drawer top before the bottom. Much less hassle with installing the pocket screws. If you set t up carefully and use some bar clamps and temporary spacers, it will work just as well. Just my .02 worth.

I'm watching this in 2023. Seeing Brad use Baltic Birch makes me want to cry in jealousy. I miss it so much! lol

Thanks for the idea in a RV I'm going to build getting idea now but this would be a cool counter top with stove and a conventional over on each side

Nice job. So I paid my 10$ for a set of plans to be delivered by download - and nothing. Whats up?

Your explanations are so clear - fantastic build, thankyou. I’m thinking of changing my current mitre saw cart to one of these, so that when it flips, the other side is a flat work table, which can be an outfeed table for my table saw cart.

I want to me you when I grow my wood shop, I’m gathering toll and better get moving before the cabinet quantity plywood costs more than a power tool.

My weekend proect thanks

Did you hear - he "Brad" nailed the bottom of the drawer! !! !!!

What would be a fair price to sell?

Hey Brad - Quick question? On the plans, you have the cut list item H (False Drawer Front) as 27 3/8" x 4 3/8" x 3/4". If you used two 4 1/2" shelf back pieces (27 1/2" x 4 1/2" x 3/4") to space the shelf top, and you then cut 1/4" off 2 sides (for 1/8" reveal around the whole front) wouldn't that make it 27 1/4" x 4 1/4" x 3/4"?

Thank-you

I don't even have a table saw, but I just want to commend you for using your blade guard. Sounds like a silly thing to say, but.. respect homie.

I love your design! I only wish I could afford plywood like used in the video!😎 Nowadays the plywood costs more than the tools! Very nice work!!

Love your channel. Do you have a link/ brand name for the counter sink bit you use in this video?

Ummm… why do you have so many hotel key cards…?

Down voted for failing to even mention what the second tool was. You didn't even have a clear shot if the tool. Apparently, if the manufacturer doesn't sponsor the video, the viewers get punished.

Go Vols!

do you ever get rocking from side to side when moving it a round? thanks

I have a very tight space to build a garage workshop that can still fit both cars when using it for its secondary usage as a place to park cars. My plan is to put a stationary bench with a miter saw on one end, a drawer/storage section in the middle and and a router table on the other end. This bench would be against the back wall. And then I plan on having two mobile stands, one for my thickness planer and the other for my jobsite table saw that would be rolled against the back wall when not being used, one on each side of the stationary bench. The table saw top would then also serve as material support for either the miter saw or the router table.

But I was having trouble seeing how to make a stand for the planer that could also serve as an extension of the workcenter when the planer stand was not being used and the stand was stored on the other side of the workcenter. My first thought was to make the top of the planer stand flush with the workcenter top. The planer would then store inside the stand on a platform that slides out on heavy duty draw slides. When I need to use the planer, I roll it out into the middle of the garage floor, slide the platform out and simply pick up the planer and put it on the top surface of the stand.

And then I saw your video and I think I have my solution. Instead of putting two tools on the platform, my thinking is that I could put the planer on one side and then extend the surface of the pivoting platform so that when the planer is facing downwards, the surface of the platform on the other side is flush with the sides of the stand. I understand that the pipe is held in place by the two cross pieces and the top and bottom surface of the platform and that I would have to put a cap piece of wood spanning the two cross pieces to provide the fourth surface need to hold the pipe in place. Is there anything that I am missing that would make this not work?

Great channel and I really love your stuff. I’m putting together a shop right now.

Love the idea but it’s too advance for a beginner like me. Feel like I need to pay for this kind of table.

Can you use a router straight bit for those slots instead of a table saw?

Awesome!

Why did you not make the cords run through the pipe. Are there issues with that design?

I found a old door with two differing surfaces that I would like to build a table out of, and I would like it to be able to switch between the two sides so that both can be seen. Is there any way to build a similar axle that don't involve drilling all the way through?