Marlin Input Shaping - Step by step guide to more speed and less ringing

Using "meld" on Linux or in vs-code can select two files and right click and select compare to get easier ways to compare old and new config, just went through it here two or three times because needed bugfix version for the skr 1.3 but going to follow the vid now if can use input shaping.

"If you're like me, still using marlin 2.0..." dude I'm on 1.1.8 🤣

FYI if no one has already commented on this. Disable Octolapse! It was causing pausing in my extrusion path. I thought it was an sd card issue but it was just maybe to much for the RPI3 to handle.

Great and usefull, thanks for sharing :) 👍

can I update marlin on my FLSUN SUPER RACER to ad input shaper????

effectles for me... I don't know... ringing from bottom to top.

nice print for ender 3) my ender have grea vfa.

Rather than doing an M503 so you can manually re-add all those settings back after a reset, apply them all in the firmware. You potentially save a TON of time if that data is ever lost!

Great video, I got it now after watching it for the second time 😂 but one question, will this work with ender neo?

@Teaching Tech tip using VSCode: Open the original Configuration.h and your Configuration.h and then press CTRL + SHIFT + P, select Compare With and choose the desired file. Boom.

I don't understand why you just aren't measuring the distance over x rings? Like six rings over 10 mm at 100mms?

Fun fact: When you tilt your head side to side, your eyes will rotate in their sockets to stay level until they run out of travel room. And you cannot stop them from doing it

I cannot for the life of me see any ringing artifacts in the test print once its done. I have the magnifying glass out there just isnt anything. I dont have a fancy printer, its just and Ender 3 Pro. Im printing the test at 150mm/s and it completes in 38 minutes. Ive done it 3 times with different filaments. Nothing

Anyone knows will this work on an 8-bit board?

I came here to upgrade my marlin firmware, but I am thinking that this is just so much work everytime that it may be better to just switch to klipper firmware.

I enable input shaping and made the test print at 15-60hz, but I see literally no difference between any of the layers. Does this mean my printer doesnt need it? Should I simply leave it disabled, I did the test print at 150mm speed. It's an ender 5 plus and I have all the corners reinforced with braces.

must be me ... but your tonal rise can fall repeated patterns ... makes me feel sea sick. I am sure you have good information... but you are just a tonal clone... just be yourself!

What made it a bit more practical to me was to copy the eeprom settings directly to the Marlin source code and enable the setting to automatically initialize eeprom when flashing. This simply too this annoying part out my head space so I don't think about it anymore whenever I reflash the firmware. No more forgetting to to adjust that one setting... The only two things I do again after flashing are Z probe offset and UBL mesh wizards. The offset wizard and UBL made me never have leveling issues again. Got rid of the springs and been happy ever after. Unfortunately those are not enabled by default, so I doubt a lot of people use these. Also discovered a code that loads mesh data after auto home, so no need to run auto leveling on every print anymore, so they start faster than ever.

Thank you - great explanation. You really have a knack for this 😊

I hope no chickens were harmed in the making of this video

Very noice.

Thanks for the video. I came up with the comment flagging technique on my own, like a monkey at a typewriter who after millenia of pecking writes Hamlet. Using a (unique ideally) signature after // wherever anything is changed was the best way to keep track of my own changes as I am so disorganised and the systems of naming and quirks of Marlin (which seem at the same time arbitrary and intentionally cryptic) don't help.

I turned a 32 hour print into 23 hours
My trick was to not use cura anymore and switch to pursaslicer. For the incidental printing I do prusa ignoring the overhang angle and printing too much support is annoying but the timesave speaks for itself

How can I install merlin firmware on stock Ender 3v2? Is it just download&build&flash? Or some other magick is required?

This video just saved me the money I'd spend on an accelerometer and the need to change to an unfamiliar firmware in my quest for speed. Awesome video

Probably too late to get a reply but what do I do If i have a touch screen on my printer? Do I have to go back to my original ender 3 screen?

Geat explanation, any chance you could review input shaping in RepRap firmaware?

After going over this myself and having to troubleshoot many hours, here's 2 important points i wish i heard when i started:
-If you are generating a ringing test that does not induce ringing, check the speed (which you should always do anyways btw), because many slicers have a minimum layer time threshold, which if left on can be overriding your set external perimeter speed and can be quite frustrating to find what is capping it.
-You actually CAN insert the input shaping command in Cura, using the "Insert at Layer Change" Script from the Post Processing Plugin, it makes it so much easier not having to start profiles from the ground up in a new slicer. I wish that could be added to the description of the video so the many Cura users that might want to implement this can skip some headaches as well.
Great video as well.

Hi, tanks for this video! Does this features works on 8 bits board, due of memory use ? On a CR10S Pro V1 for example..

Thanks for yuor work, now im gone put this to work😊

If using Prusa Slicer then don't fall for the trap of leaving the "default" value in "acceleration control (advanced)" under "Print Settings">"Speed" I couldn't work out why everything was coming out so good.

Patrick taught me the initial trick too, it makes it a lot easier when updating to newer versions. Notepad++ has a plugin called compare, you should try it out, it has the ability to compare similar sections even if not on the same lines or if an item has changed locations.

Quick question, couldn't this be fixed in the slicer? If you could enter ringing frequencies into the slicer, it could generate the movements required to offset it.

Upgrading my Powerspec Ultra3D to Marlin 2.1.2, excited to try this out! Thanks for the exhaustive video covering all the bases!

I am gonna see if this fixes the artifacts from closed loop S42C.

Marlin's documentation:
"It’s not always easy to attach an accelerometer to most printer boards, so Marlin doesn’t provide accelerator-based tuning. If you have that information you can use it."

How can we use the accelerometer???

Is there a way we can hook out printer to the internet and allow a smart Guy like you log in and super tune the Firmware while guiding the user/me on hardware install to support such updates Like Active Resonance Compensation ARC sounds great it says exactly what it going to do. I have had 4 Cars Motor controller tuned this way and several PC tune ups this way can we do it with the 3D Printer?????/ Dennis

I forgot to change set accelerations to 1000mm, is okey any way?

Can you use the backlash compensation with the input shaping? I noticed that in the adv file too but not sure if it is needed... Also, should i turn off adaptive step smoothing? my motors are very noisy when I adjust linear advanced values, so i dont know what is causing it. I disabled s curve but not sure what else i need to disable.

Works very well. Been using it for a month and have retuned twice. So far so good with a noticeable improvement in print quality vs speed. Used in combination with linear(pressure) advance and classic jerk. Found junction deviation and s-curve a waste of time with loss of quality and bulgy corners.

CURA should be able to do this with Extension\Post Processing\Modify G Code\Insert at Layer Change

Ive added this but I’m getting a fairly big drop in corner sharpness and oval holes has anyone else experienced this?

IS there a way to translate the input shaping command that goes after layer change to use in Simplify3D?

Love the clip of the polish hen! is it yours?

small question ... where does the Adxl sensor come from with the SKR 1.4 turbo, for example thanks for an explanation

When he said "if your like me you're still running Marling 2.0" I'm just thinking how much of a dinosaur am I still running 1.1.2 ?
I think it's long past my upgrade time ! Guess the old adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" has it limits...

Soo is klipper still necessarily better? Klipper has poor support regarding filament run out thingy related ...in my opinion .

That bird analogy was weird. that's not really done to cancel out vibration.

klipper way better no measuring just use a cheap sensor

So printing very large objects greatly influences the shaper frequency