Quick and Simple Way to Level Your Creality K1 or K1 Max Bed

bonjour , j'ai une solution un petit peux différente , comme vous , je désynchronise les courroies , je fais monter l'axe au maximum jusqu'à contact avec la buse et déplace manuellement la buse , je fais tourner les profilés afin qu'ils soient au contact ( buse ) partout . Une fois fait , je remets la synchronisation des courroies =) , merci pour votre tutoriel aussi =)

Now I've done this leveling method (with the spacers). GREAT! got me down from 1.6mm range to 0.5mm - still not great, but I don't think it will get better with those 3 anchor points we're somewhat limited :)
I've taken 2 of your spacers and scaled them in the slicer to the difference to the highest of my 3 pillars. worked easy!
thanks and greets from austria, Mario

Hello and thank you for information. I wanted to ask whether it is sufficient to use the simple solution or whether the recommended Variant must also bei used? Or both?

Brilliant fix. I will try this out when i can. Mines out by about 1.6 in the right corner. So itll be good to have the machine not work so hard to compensate.

Let’s buy an autoleveling printer and than let’s level it the non-autolevel way. That makes sense :)

I do not help people who do not help me. If you answer my questions from below, I may be convinced to help fund you.

How do I know where should I put the spacer by looking at the bed mesh? Is 0,0 in the bed mesh is the front left corner?

Thanks for this! I'd be interested in the follow up video about flattening it more.

You earned my sub

The reason it drops a bit is the backlash between the gears and the belt teeth. You are applying tension only to one side of the belt. You could possibly compensate using adjustable gears or compensating with a tooth jump, but I like your solution. Quick and easy.

If you have ever replaced a dual cam or more timing belt on a car you know the struggle. Same same. But, you sir did a great job at figuring out a permanent solution.

Just sent you an email! Nice video! Would appreciate the assistance via my email when you have time :)

Hi just a question. How did you access the config file?

Hi just a question. How did you access the config file?

I leveled my bed months ago when I first received my K1 Max. I used your method, however rather then printing shims I made mine from proper shimming materials

Why would they put their customers through this much hassle? You can just admit it to be a major design flaw! This is why I would never buy a K1! Hahahahaha

First of all, thank you very very much for the fantastic video!!
I am dealing with my new K1 Max just now, but I can't manage to see the bed mesh in Creality Print. Can I ask you which software did you use?
TIA

why do you have to do this? isnt the point of a self leveling 3D printer to self level the bed?

How do I locate the "mesh" file for the K1 Max?

Quick and Easy?

What software are used to meassure the bed? Thanks!

simple fix to turn over the printer don't think so

On my K1 Max I cannot find the menus you are accessing, neither are they in Creality Print. Please tell me where I can find the menus and the level profile.

what slicer or calibration software is that?

What 'splicer' are you using? None of the Creality application look like that and Cura 5.6 doesn't

using creality print, how do you know which corner needs to be raised?

Mine works fine, Im not messing with this!

Mine was 2.3 mm off and with the spacers i've reached de 0.15mm, thanks!

Do you know what the maximum number of points is for building the mesh? I use a glass plate on my k1, but would like to get the mesh perfect.

Interested in the bed flattening

Maybe it's stupid question but i am a new in 3d printing. What software is used to vizualize a bed leveling ? Please someone aswer. Thanks.

Easiest fix... Buy a Bambu.... 😂😂

pro tip: dont buy a creality

So simple, and such a good result... I'm drying my ASA right now. Thank you so much!

I've found with cog belts you sometimes have to have partial tension on them to keep it in time when letting the tensioner take over.
Say like when putting a timming belt in a V6 engine.
A lot of times you might use a cam lock or holder and stretch the belt between two pulleys then the third and apply full tension.
I kinda wonder if you couldn't turn the nuts on the Z screw at the frame to get it more square.
I surface all my magnetic beds with 80g sandpaper and a long piece of 2020 extrusion while heated to get them as flat as possible.
Then do any leveling of the bed.
I'd like to see a video of how you flatten the plate though.
Thanks for the video 👍

Which software are you using to measure the bed?

Hi, I would have turned the spirit level 180 degrees, to see if the bubble is still in the same place, because if your level is out anything you check the level on, will be wrong. I’ve seen it many times. The other thing you mentioned was, your using a stamped plate, why go to a material and stamped, if it’s worse for warping, it doesn’t make sense to me, you would spend more time re levelling the heat bed than printing. No thanks..

I been thinking on getting a new printer. Ether cr k1 max, bambu carbon or pursa xl.

What would be the better choice??

On the k1 it seams its not a true auto leveling. I guess the carbon and pursa have that.

I absolutely would like to see a vid on flattening the bed. I just got a k1 max and am learning every quirk possible about them. I do have a question though. I tried to print in ABS last night with the Inland brand, I got a clogged hothead as a thanks, any temp tips on how to prevent this? I was printing at 260c. Or is inland just trash? I haven’t had a 3d printer since the original Robo R1 came out so bit out dated on proper brands now. Just Creality had a sale and it just made sense more than a Bambu. Really impressed with how far Creality has come since 2016.

Я купил принтер с корявых рук. На первый взгляд там была разница более 5мм без включения принтера. После снятия z ремня, вручную был поднят стол до печатающей головки и выставлены все зазоры относительно неё. Далее установлен z ремень. Погрешность составила 0,3. После корректировал одну ось на один зуб.

Hi, I also have the K1 and I still have to check the position of the bed, in my opinion these differences are due to the imperfect synchronism of the threads of the threaded bars, the three threaded bars have a different position compared to each other.

I did from 1.2 to 0,4mm with 40 min. THNX !!

Hello. Ive been looking high and low for the rainbow colored hotbed display that everyone is using. In creality I've looked for it while printing and not printing. I've looked in the tool tab and the calibrate tab. No luck

Need to release the sprockets on each of the Z axis lead screws then put the belt on and tighten each back in the correct timing position. It is like the timing on an engine's timing belt to the cylinder head. . This will make the belts not be the problem. I hate the K1 Max as I have only had problems with it. $900 for a printer that constantly needs to be fixed is jus not right. I have the Bambu Lab and it prints nearly perfectly and I have NEVER had to work on it, not even one clogged print head.

I like the 2nd approach. Looks like genius idea!

I have the K1 Max, Can you tell me how did you get to the screen on creality print to see the information on bed leveling? Do I need to install fluid first? Thanks for the video.

Newbie, first off. How do you read the mesh to know which point needs a shim?

A great idea and execution, especially for people who are afraid to disassemble a new printer.
I recommend the first method, which involves moving the timing belt and skiping teeth on pulley wheel.
This way you can level the bed within -0.2mm to 0.2mm.
Then, using 0.1mm thick M3 washers, precisely level heated bed.

Sorry for not knowing this, but the K1 doesn't support any form of gantry level? A G34 equivalent.

Why people don't use HIPS? It's much easier and cleaner to print than ABS and ASA and it's cheap and has similar enough properties.