Комментарии:
220V Sweden
ОтветитьI'm a total noob waiting for my 1st 3d printer to be delivered tomorrow and trying to learn in advance. what does adjusting Z axis manually achieve after the bed was calibrated by the sensor? or is it an entirely unrelated setting? thanks!!!
ОтветитьAlso, that slicer is based on PrusaSlicer.
ОтветитьThe force sensors are under the bed.
ОтветитьHey now, that og Mario movie was a cinematic masterpiece? You apologize for your blasphemy!
ОтветитьI like the screen with the knob. It works just fine.
ОтветитьI'm here for the "get off my lawn" phase of Ben Heck
ОтветитьDayum that cat is thicc
ОтветитьA bed slinger that doesn't have a two column gantry is much more stable. Is CoreXY better because of the axis or because it has more rigidity because it needs it?
ОтветитьHey, it's me the nerd that ranted about this printer at VCF Midwest. The force sensor is a dirt cheap one used in scales under the bed on the front left where the nozzle touches.
ОтветитьMaybe now that Microsoft owns Bethsoft maybe they can hire some people good at modeling and animating faces? Oh, and force them to use a new engine!
ОтветитьTron sucks. You're not alone.
ОтветитьCall of doody.
ОтветитьTron was Disney. 'Nuff said! (They did 'The Black Hole', another SciFi bomb)
Might not actually have a force sensor. It could be using sensorless homing where the motor drivers detect when the motor stalls as the nozzle hits the bed, causing the motor current to go up.
You are wrong about usb micro vs mini. Micro has the connector locking spring inside the plug, mini has it inside the female socket (jack?). So if the spring goes bad on micro, just throw away the cable and get a new one. If it goes bad on the mini, then you have to replace the jack on the mother board. That's better??????? I think USB C gets rid of the spring, the connectors are a bit longer and the tolerances are tighter so they are not needed.
Now that you have an empty box, Bud will sit in it.
Don't forget speed in Furlongs per Fortnight.
I dont mind if printer doesnt have touch screen, Its not like you use it often or need to some "complex" clicking. As far as UI is fast and simple, its ok to use knob.
For me biggest minus is lack of wifi as I know that wifi is cheap as hell, as we can buy light bulb with wifi for 5-6 bucks... Still I dont mind using sd card or usb, but when you print lots of smaller things when prototyping you send files every hour or half hour to printer so its kinda annoying if you cant reach it with usb cable and you need to use card...
I prefer knobs, I'm old school I guess.
ОтветитьThat alien blob trying to suffocate the nozzle, that was cool😎 sometimes, some other brands a better prepared for bugs after all those sales. Not bad for 350w, not even a dollar a watt.
ОтветитьOverclock that 115v,230v to 600v ,it should take it with the bottom fans, 4times faster 😁
ОтветитьBud is a large orange cat
ОтветитьI got one
ОтветитьOnline it says 250 mm/s, so did you handycap yourself at 180?
ОтветитьBud looking like a socially acceptable cat now.
ОтветитьI found all current entry level models follow the same design with only slight variations.
A colleague at work recommended the Neptune 3 Pro to both me and a trainee, latter already got hands on his and brought it to work past week.
It costs 210€ which is only slightly more expensive and has microUSB instead of Type-C, for that the display has touch inputs.
Print speed is about the same but it uses a rebranded CURA version with its own profiles rather than its own slicer, which is nice because I am already used to Cura.
Thanks for the review, Ben, I probably go and check my bank balance again and then decide which one to pick.
Oh also... 230V is standard for Europe too.
I swear, it really doesn't matter how many 3D printers you review, I always enjoy them from start to finish. They feel like a much more honest review with all the bumps and warts and complaints that make sense
ОтветитьUse glue stick its not to glue its to help release print
ОтветитьLets get this out on a tray. nice.
ОтветитьI've gotta say, I don't like all the cosmetic bits. I prefer everything to be easily accessible or only behind a metal panel with a few screws.
ОтветитьIt's so good to listen Uncle Ben talking about all those cat and 3D printing experience.
ОтветитьLove you content Ben! Say, uh got any advice on how to fix a solder pad that got ripped out on a circuit board?
ОтветитьI just stumbled on to Displaced Gamers a few days ago. I can't even remember how I got there, but I'm glad I did. It's definitely worth checking out.
ОтветитьI have the S1. Bought about 6 months ago. I had to set the z-offset manually initially. And I have to check it every few weeks. We've been printing something at least every other day.
ОтветитьIt's actually kind of odd seeing them put a knob on the screen unit, if they're trying to save money... you don't see many buttons or switches on gadgets nowadays is because it's cheaper to just use a touchscreen, instead of sourcing and soldering multiple input devices onto the board, and then the actual knob/button/switch lever on top of it. And that's not something you can change with a firmware update like a GUI.
ОтветитьTell me, has Bud got big enough yet to start repairing and making his own mods yet?
If not, why not?
US promo code not working! 06FS17DM
ОтветитьI’ll hold out for the Ender 3 V3 SE Pro V2 Mk 4 Rev B Update 16.2.
It must have a force sensor, it comes in Vader black.
The navy would jettison a piolet from a a perfectly good F35 instead of fly under a bridge. lol. Also, you should PSO for Dreamcast online. Way cooler than Starfield.
ОтветитьCan confirm, plugging 220/230v power into a device expecting 115/120v is less than ideal, unless you're going for a quick way to obtain magic smoke.
ОтветитьPara que serve a usbc?
Ответитьi love you.
ОтветитьYou missed being relatively quiet is also a big plus! Especially for newbies that will have this set up in their bedroom or kitchen.
ОтветитьFor Ender-style printers, I actually prefer the rotary encoder over touch screens.
ОтветитьIf I'm not crazy, the metal z height probe is below the print nozzle height. So if you want to make the nozzle print higher from the print bed at first layer extrusion, the Z offset should be a bigger negative offset number, not smaller, as you did in the video.
Am I getting it wrong?
Nice hiss!
ОтветитьThe cheaper those get, the higher houses have to go for inflation targeting.
ОтветитьInstead of tilting the base to attach the gantry, just slide the base to the edge of your bench and insert bolts from the underside. It's much easier and less chance of messing something up.
ОтветитьRecently we got K1 into the office absolutelly beast. Thinking about getting ender for myself to home but not sure yet
Ответить