Easy Hack To Eliminate Breaker Points & Upgrade To Electronic Ignition -Episode 5 of 7 Tiller Series

Hi how to upgrade ignition coil in gasoline engine

It was so good it sparked even after you stopped the drill.......lol

Polish the peg......thats a new one🤣

Uggggh.......its not sand paper.......lol

Thanks, awesome help

I have a B&S 2HP but can't find the electronic ignition for it.
Would the one for the 5HP work the same?
I see a lot of the electronic ignition for the 5HP for sale.

Thanks for anyone's help.😉👍

Videos like this are golden. Well done from Rome Ga USA

Steve I did everything you said about No COPRESION, It was hard to turn the cutting blade I did the cylinders they were ok, I clean the flywheel; Notice one side of the onesie was stuck and I had tape down the, break release I PUT wd 40 on the brake release. This was on John Deed JTHAAS63 THE ONE WIHIT TNE 2 WEALS that are extended out i hope you understand me.

Cracked me up. Kool trick.

Just what I needed to know love your simple approach Steve keep the good ideas coming 👍

Thank you

Hi Steve, can you show how to wire up an external kill switch?

Have you tried the NOVA ign module?

Sand the magnetic part of the fly wheel and the bottom of the coil also

fantastic tip.........great video........really taught me a lot.

I have a Koehler 8hp 50years old with the coil mounted behind the flywheel. How would you put electronic ignition on this engine?

where's my beer???

How can I determine if my engine is points or electronic ignition without tearing it down. I have the model, type & code numbers.
Its a 1989 Monkey ward lawn tractor w/ 18 hp twin sleeve. Like to change it to electronic if its points.

I'm having problems with my go kart it turns on but when u open the throttle it turns off but when u get off it and lift the back side and u open the throttle it starts running good but it only runs if u left the back side

Hi, im having trouble with the coilpack, it generates power but not in the range needed. Am I right to assume it has been cooked and thus leaking voltage?

Hey Steve love your videos can you send me the part number to convert my brigg 5hp tilted motor so I can get rid of my points and have electronics ingntion

That's for my 5HP Norlett!

Lol that condenser

I'm just working on an old Tiller that I'm going to do the same thing for thanks for the info I love all your videos

What if magneto is on inside of flywheel

I have a small lifan 5.5 hp engine for a water pump, and my engine skips every 5-8 seconds, and at low rpm, it shuts down after a few skips. Now i changed the plug and it did almost fix the problem and the skip was very minimal and not abrupt like before, but now due to a non adjustable carb the plug got sut on it and the skip came back...meaning I'm not getting any power from the coil pack...is there anyway to upgrade this ?....like in old carburetor cars you could have did the msd power pack 😊

Well I just learned a valuable trick and I have 2 old tillers like this. One is shot and has a good coil. Other has a bad points coil. I cant wait to try swapping it over! You're a beauty Steve!

what electronic ignition coil number do i need for that job? 5 hp briggs any coil i get will not lay flat on the flywheel, any help would be great

where do the kill wires hook up to? Thanks

UPDATE , Its a Tecumseh not a Briggs.

My old engine ( 1976 - 1978 ) ? Brigs and stratton the points and even the coil is behind the flywheel not outside of it. what do I do now ? do they sell a solid state ign. module that it all fits under the flywheel or would I have to buy a new flywheel to make this modification ?

After sanding rust off of the flywheel magnets and coil armature legs, I like to apply a very light thin coat of clear varnish to prevent the rust from coming back. Of course you don't do this where the coil is bolted to the engine, that would prevent it from grounding.

I have been unable to find the correct ignition module. I had to buy one, but it is not the correct one and the radius on the legs do not sit flush with the fly wheel. Can one or both of the legs be grinded down to fit the fly wheel? Since my machine no longer has the model number, I cannot find the correct coil. Or as a last resort, can the old legs be somehow removed from the old coil and replaced from the new one?

Wabbthe stihl 008?

Very nice

I have the exact same Dewalt 20 V drill. Used it for starting motors just like you did in this video. Ended up breaking the chuck brake from not having some sort of free wheel mechanism on there for when the engine fires. Cut the handle off of a cheap Chyneezium 3/8 ratchet and tack weld a 3/4” or so 3/8 drive socket to the backside of the ratchet head. The center twist direction selector type ratchet, not the toggle lever type. I tack welded a short chunk of coat hanger to the outer case to where it will prevent the selector from switching to the wrong ratcheting direction after the socket is tacked on there. Gotta take your time and weld slowly with wet sponge breaks so you don’t cook ratchet guts. Made the same type of thing for them dang Troybilt string trimmers with the easystart (jump start, whatever) feature that they were ignorant enough to make the drive hole that connects to the flywheel require an oddly shaped 5 point female proprietary tool to use, and you will end up needing to use it because the spring assist recoil starter pawls are garbage and fail all the time. Ended up making the ratchet starter for these turds using the 5 point drive piece off of the brand new troybilt easystart drill adapter gizmo I bought.. right after it snapped the drive bit off on the first attempt at using the damn thing. Troy Bilt batting 1000.

I'm watching this serie of your videos, because i want to fix my grandfather's old Tecumseh (with the indian-head logo) tiller. Well it didn't run since like 30 years. The thing is i can't find out which type is that engine (probably the LAV 153 but I'm not sure). My question is that those old manuals (if i could get one) says the order of the tightening the screws and the distances, or i have to ask from the company or a mechaic? Because my machine is a really old one, probably from the end of the 1980's (i was born at 1989 xD) and I'm not sure that the newer mechanics can help, especially Tecumseh is not so widespread in my country. What do you suggest to me? :)
update: i found it's number on the unit engraved: LAV 153 E-40027A

Some become prime minister to help people... you're accomplishing the same by making our lives work better!

I have a 70s Ariens snowblower with Tecumseh engine. Can I do this to it? Any suggestions for parts access?

I need one of your business cards Steve. I'll gladly pay shipping. Another great video, thanks for the tips and tricks, it's appreciated!

Thanks Steve! We are enjoying all of your videos, the ones lately with April are extra special, you two make a great team!

That was my thought. I haven't seen points for a LOT of years.

Contact type ignitors are rather problematic. Stand for electronic for smooth working. Toss👍

Steve, I received my ignition coil today. I followed your easy instructions and my tiller is back in commission. Bought a new coil off of e-bay for $15 , lowes wanted $48 and I bet it is the same coil.. Thanks a lot for you information. Tommy

Always good information and to the point

Reason to keep all junk engines and equipment
Then it’s turned in cash

Nice.. straightforward info. Seems I have the same engine so this video was a relief to find.

I did this with a 3000 Watt Montgomery Ward generator that had breaker points. Got sick of taking it apart to replace the condenser.