PRO Coach On Why There's So Many V17 Ascents Recently // Tom Randall from Lattice Training

Not to sound like a jerk or be rude but it's called progression. it's that simple. And obviously with social media we hear about it soon after. Shout out to climbers though like Niky Ceria who when they do first ascents or repeats don't even comment on the grade but talk more about the beauty of the climb.

Erm what the sigma

Sigma vid man, I love you

You should really pay your fanum tax

gyatt rizzler

fanum tax rizzler, on the skibidi, type shi

Skibidi fornite goes hard dont you think?

YEAH! SKIBIDI FORNITE

Skibidi gyatt rizzler on that b bop grind

what does tom know about climbing v17.....

hey great podcast! I just thought it was unnecessary to use pewdiepie for the rungne add, as he's not a paid brand ambassador or anything, he was just wearing some tshirts:)) I don't think you need pewdiepie or anyone else's footage advertisement without their permission as there are so many more people you can use footage of. cheers!

What I think is this: over the past 10 years training methods and the science behind them has improved vastly. Just think about all the different protocols that came out over the last decade and add to that the expansion of the gym scene.

Know what also keeps my fingers sticky?

My second bag of magdust 💁🏾‍♀️

This is how sports always work. At one point, people thought it would be impossible to run a sub 6 minute mile. Then one person did it and now almost anyone who tries to run for even a couple months can do it. The same thing happens with every “is this the limit of human performance?” Benchmark. Human beings just need to see something is possible.

its because of the training, and the fact you got extreme sports players joining! played extreme sports 25 years now, and we are taught very strict way on practicing tricks, and focusing on tricks, guess it carries to climbing. I started a few years back climbed for two years, did sport lead, and some trad lead. then moved away, and now 4 years later gonna be moving to utah for school, and well MOAB lol. Cant wait to start to climb again! Had my left hand rebuilt, and gonna start training it again, and rehab it before I get there. cant wait to start doing massive cracks!

Seems we are overdo for a v18. There were only a handful of v16 boulderers when nalle did burden. Now everyone is doing v16, and v15 is considered elite recreational, probably no longer just for the pros. Seems someone has to find a new hard project…

Maybe there just hasn’t been enough time for downgrades

It wasn't until ROTSW, Soudain Seul and Alphane were put up in 3 of the most popular and accessible boulder destinations in the world where you can have the top ~100 climbers realistically siege a V17.

The only V17 was in Finland where other good boulders weren't well known and weather is bad. It wasnt until other v17s were sent and replica training until today's climbers would consider Burden worth projecting.

Access -> collaboration -> better beta and competition -> pushing the limit

First point is probably the most important. the first V17, BOD, as depicted in the movie where Nalle made the FA showed an honestly ugly, nasty boulder, in the middle of a humid forest to the edge of the world.
The other V17, while being not so accessible (ROTSW) at least are in overall areas that are filled with other potential climbs, and with conditions that you can find within your trip.
the next point is that we got a new wave of younger climbers that seems to me dared to break the ceiling glass by repeatedly grading problems V17. Some of them might not hold, but some other will, and thus, the ceiling is now gone. Which also means that climbers, even the long time established ones, can go try these boulders and have some confidence that the grade will hold.
Lastly, i think that it's really overlooked that a strong part of those V17 climbers are climbers coming from a competition background. They've been training and climbing inside that world, and while still doing it or by going full time on rock, start to climb super hard stuff. I dont think that climbers realize how good those climber are. Not only strong, but really, really good about moving their body on some holds. We have seen glimpses of the dominating competition climbers (narasaki flashing 8B+, garnbret sending ultra quickly elite problems, schubert downgrading or sending hard stuff, raboutou...) on rock, and it's only beginning. The climbers from this world will push way further the limits during the next decade.